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ECMlink knock knock

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onefast2gdsm

15+ Year Contributor
866
6
Aug 30, 2010
millersburg, Pennsylvania
Ok, let me start by saying my car was pretty much perfectly tuned, then I had to pull my motor because of a motor mount problem, dropped it back in and my whole tune went haywire. That being said, I don't need a lecture on how my car is lean during the pull. This problem happened in 5th gear on my last tune, and only in 5th, and now its starting in other gears.

On my old tune, every gear was perfect, get to 5th gear and half way through the pull I'd get 12.7 degrees of knock. On the way home from work tonight, I did a 3rd gear pull to see what I needed to adjust since my whole tune was off. Well, I got the same knock 5th did on my last tune. To me, it seems its switching to the minoct table half pull. I need link experts to diagnose this!!

log.2011.12.27-03.elg - 4shared.com - online file sharing and storage - download
 
If you have link, why didnt you post this to the forums? I have link, but barely just got it so i am not to familar with it, but i learn a lot from the forums. What version of ecmlink do you have? V2 or v3?

As for youre knock, i am not sure why it is coming on it other gears other then what it did in 5th. But if you are running lean, maybe the car is trying to tell you something. Try richening it up a bit and see if it still knocks. I cant see the log due to be on my phone.
 
Cant take a look at the moment

But if your getting that much knock Id advice you to stop doing pulls like you mentioned above.... till you sort out your issue
 
10.5 afr is pretty rich, I aim for 11.5-12.0 generally. I see more noise the richer I have my AFRs generally a blip of .4-1.4 of knock when I run richer than 11.5. But what you have is showing as alot of knock. Have you tried reading your plugs? Do they show sign of knock? Any drive train noises?
 
Try adding Octane to your logged values to make sure you're not skipping out of the max tables for some reason (didn't look like you did though when tracking the datalog).

I'd try dropping timing via the DA table for that area first off.

Have you run a recent log through the SD WOT tuning sheet my brother posted up on the link forums? Maybe see if your airflow is off towards the end, which might be causing the random lean issue? If not, I'd look to a fuel system component causing the issue.

As for why it's knocking 0-8* in a matter of seconds, I really have no idea, especially if the knock sensor is basically brand new.
 
Can you send me a link to the post your brother did? I don't visit ecm forums often. And ill log octane and see what I come up with. This is really aggrivating me LOL.
 
I reset timing table to stock and made my min Oct table the same as Max, and no knock. I don't want to say it's fixed just yet. I also did what your brother wrote up, snowboarder. Haven't done a pull after I did it though.
 
Most recent log. Snowboarder, I keep doing that wot tuning trick your brother posted but it seems to make it worse.
 

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Any advice on where to start looking for answers? the first day I reset timing tables and made my minoct the same as max, I did 3 pulls with no knock. A day later it has 3.5, now 12 again.
 
Welll, as many people have pointed out in other places in the past the OEM knock sensor is about equal to or less than the value of a rabbit turd in worth LOL

I would really be looking for external noises like loose bolts, vibrating brackets and such as usually they'll set off the knock sensor faster than anything else i've noticed. I did a test where i cruised in 1st gear in a parking lot with the cool air on and would turn the "a/c/ button" on and off and every third or fourth time the thing would even trigger my stand alone J&S knock system to pull almost 10 degrees from every cylinder (it is programmed to pull ONLY from the knocking cylinder as it keeps track, but other random noise can emulate knock easily), and since the engine was out i would bet what little money is in my pocket that you have an issue other than actual pre-ignition or detonation causing the KS to cry wolf

Do this, tune to a safe AFR for your fuel (but not too rich) and make the timing locked at no higher than say 15* all through the rev range from 4K to 8k RPM, set the KS to not be valid/in use untill 8k or higher, do a WOT pull from 4k to 7500 RPM, then stop and read the plugs, looks for speckles onthem, that's a real sign of knock, I ran for 9 years with no KS at all and never had an issue on pump gas at a solid steady 16* timing from 3500RPM to8500 RPM at boost levels of16-18psi, I only read plugs and on the dyno when not using the crap MSD kncok box i would look at theexhaust for "puffs" off black that were random as those are signs of real knock too

not trying to sound like a smart ass but i'd rather have no KS at all than to have to worry about making the mitsu unit happy
 
Snowboarder, I had to remove the cylinder head because my friend dropped a valve in the block while doing valve seals that the machine shop messed up. I was busy working on something else when it happened. So the cylinder head came off, put a new headgasket on, and that's pretty much it besides timing. I grounded timing and set the cas to where it should be. (6 bolt swap) other than that, nothing else changed. I took the plugs out a few minutes ago and the electrode is white on all 4. My gap is at 30, on a bpr7es plug.. I'm running 20-21 psi, is that gap too small?
 
I redid my maxoct table. Shooting for 11.2. Tell me if this table is acceptable or if I need to adjust some things.
 

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