ECMlink Knock help and advice on tune.

[A_USER_NAME]

I don`t have much knowledge on tuning. If I could get some advice on my tune to set me on the right road I would appreciate it.

I am running e85, 1250cc FIC bluemax, DW300 pump rewired, fuelab filter, aeromotive FPR, E316G, 2.3 stroker, 9:1 CR, HKS 272`s. If you need other mods ask and I will let you know what I have.

Third gear pull: As it states its a third gear pull I did, a lot of stuttering/sputtering due to timing being pulled I believe.

Included is a small idle log.

I am running lean at wot it looks like. I need to richen it up to 11.0-11.7 right? To help prevent that knock. Also how does my timing look? It looks like too much but I am unsure.

Some advice would help, I understand its really noobish but id rather not mess something up..

 

[A_USER_NAME]

What a relief, my tune must be perfect

No pointers from anybody? If im on the log, should I right click then go to ECU config then fuel and adjust little by little until my afr steadies around 11.0?

I really need to know if my timing looks good also.

Thanks in advance

Based off of this post, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/91676-how-street-tune-using-dsmlink.html

I sould get my AFR in line, he says "Keep taking out fuel until your calculated air/fuel is as close to 11:1 as possible." Assuming if you are running richer than 11:1? So in my case I would need to add fuel on the sliders, to get away from it running lean. Right?

 

[c2ypt1c]

How exactly do you plan to get your AFR "in line," with AFRest? Where's your wideband? You're tuning blind...
Also, you should ditch the sliders and get used to direct access. Check this out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/448002-tuning-ecmlink-v3.html

 

[crash89]

For some reason I cant open the log.. But this is the article that helped me successfully tune my car. Also just reading what ^^ he said, you dont have a wideband??? You definitely need one.

How to Tune a 1G V3 SD ECM LINK with no MAF V1-3

 

[mchustle]

I'm no tuning guro by any means, but I'm almost certain e85 should never be in the 11 area and should be more along the lines of 12.3ish. Like I said I'm not great at tuning at cant acess the log on my phone so you might want to research that a little before taking my word on it.

 

[snowborder714]

Have you read this yet? If so, please give any input on the items.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

 

[A_USER_NAME]

Have you read this yet? If so, please give any input on the items.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

Everything checks out on that list with the exception of battery voltage, I have never thought to check it but im sure its fine as I have never had an electrical issue.

I have a wideband, its in my profile. BUT one of the wires going the the small box between the sensor and gauge broke so I am unable to log it right now. Before it broke my afr's weren't too crazy. Ill get it fixed and log it.

How exactly do you plan to get your AFR "in line," with AFRest? Where's your wideband? You're tuning blind...
Also, you should ditch the sliders and get used to direct access. Check this out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/448002-tuning-ecmlink-v3.html

Awesome write-up!!!!

 

[c2ypt1c]

Everything checks out on that list with the exception of battery voltage, I have never thought to check it but im sure its fine as I have never had an electrical issue.

Actually, at idle your voltage looks to be a little on the low side, which is going to affect injector deadtime...

I have a wideband, its in my profile. BUT one of the wires going the the small box between the sensor and gauge broke so I am unable to log it right now. Before it broke my afr's weren't too crazy. Ill get it fixed and log it.

Yeah, get that thing fixed asap. After that, I'd zero the sliders (or even get a fresh config file), dial-in the injectors/deadtime, set your fuel map for e85, dial-in the maf for idle, cruise and wot. Then work on the timing. Piece of cake

Awesome write-up!!!!

Thanks!

 

[A_USER_NAME]

So this is what's wrong with my wideband, but could this even be my issue? The wires don't lead to anything. There are just 2 connectors, one labeled "in" the other "out". It appears the wires broke because they went through the steering column, id assume they got twisted around and broke. Anywho...

Well I can't upload the picture from my phone for some reason. So if you can pm me your email I can send it that way.

 

[snowborder714]

Since you have an LC-1, there are two thicker black wires that come out and go to an audio-input style end. The terminator plug should be in one of them (IN, I believe) and the OUT should be left open (used when you want to connect to the LC-1 via computer).

Unless you're asking about other wires as well.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

I am talking about those wires, they were just stuffed into a panel unconnected to anything.

I am thinking it is a bad sensor, it used to work the gradually over time it would work for 20 min, then 15, then 10 ect until it stopped. It now just rises from 13.1 when I start it to 15.1 and just stays. I will pick up a new sensor (Bosch 3737 LSU4.2) and get it going.

On a side note, my oil filter housing came loose literally dumping out my oil. Luckily I noticed it before any damage was done

 

[snowborder714]

Can you take a picture of the wires in question? Just want to make sure what's not used is ok. It might also be causing the issues and isn't a bad sensor. But it sounds like it's just the ones I mentioned which wouldn't cause any issue.

Was it the large center bolt that came loose (the part the filter threads on to)? If so, this is a common issue. Very glad to hear you caught it before it did damage. Make sure to reinstall it with plenty of blue threadlocker and torque to spec.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

The aforementioned wires are indeed the ones you were talking about. They look like head phone jacks.

I am very stoked I caught it, the 20 minute drive I was about to go on would have ended a hellacious day.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

So I got a new sensor for my wideband. Just one question, will I need to recalibrate it after I install the new sensor? Its an innovate lc-1

 

[snowborder714]

I would recalibrate the heater as well as the sensor. Check out section 4 of the manual for instructions on both.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

I would recalibrate the heater as well as the sensor. Check out section 4 of the manual for instructions on both.

Got my wideband going again so I will be able to mess with the tune safely I will get some logs posted. It might be a few days though, I will have to use a friends computer. I broke mine

 

[A_USER_NAME]

First log
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0-R-MStQLj_RUl1T0NVV0tZQ0U/
After playing w a few things, and this was without a wideband so pretty much pulled a little time and added fuel, was lean (14.7+) below 3500

 

[A_USER_NAME]

Woops forgot these. Two after playing w it. Still missing. Still knocking @~12.3:1?
If that first link doesn't work add edit to the URL. Drive has been finicky lately
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0-R-MStQLj_eHRPSThJTGx3YzQ/edit

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0-R-MStQLj_UTJUWGlrNm9MVnM/edit

 

[c2ypt1c]

Drive has been finicky lately

probably because your airflow is not dialed in. Let's try this one more time - you need to be logging wideband...

 

[A_USER_NAME]

probably because your airflow is not dialed in. Let's try this one more time - you need to be logging wideband...

Sorry for being difficult, I thought we were logging it but maybe we did it incorrectly. I just watched the demo video again and will do a few more logs and get them up soon.

 

[boost97gst]

Go under ecu inputs, iirc and select LC1WB for the front o2(or rear o2 if youre still using the front)
Save it, then make sure its a CAPTURED VALUE. Then you can select it in DISPLAYED VALUES. Then you will have lc1wb show up in your logs.

 

[snowborder714]

Please upload your logs to this site and not something external. It doesn't help for people in the future who may want to learn from this thread since those files will most likely be gone.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

Go under ecu inputs, iirc and select LC1WB for the front o2(or rear o2 if youre still using the front)
Save it, then make sure its a CAPTURED VALUE. Then you can select it in DISPLAYED VALUES. Then you will have lc1wb show up in your logs.

What if its the middle o2? I have one on the upper portion of my downpipe, my wideband about a foot further down, then another o2 under the middle of the car. Sorry if that's vague...

Please upload your logs to this site and not something external. It doesn't help for people in the future who may want to learn from this thread since those files will most likely be gone.

Sorry about that, my friend had them on his phone and uploaded them from his google account.

 

[snowborder714]

What if its the middle o2? I have one on the upper portion of my downpipe, my wideband about a foot further down, then another o2 under the middle of the car. Sorry if that's vague...

Yes, from the factory, 2g's have a front and rear o2 sensor. But you will need to input the wideband's signal into one of these, with the rear o2 being the most common as that sensor only checks if the cat is functioning properly.

 

[A_USER_NAME]

Good to know, thanks. I will go ahead and try to log it from the rear o2 when I log next time.