Just ordered comp cams

[revision27]

elipsegsx9797 is correct, lets go back and have a look at the test page shal we?http://www.automotosports.com/cam_test.asp



So it looks like this...

264/264 was 13.6 HP / 37.3 lbs/ft gaim
264/272 was +1.1 HP / 0.1 ft/lbs (over 264/264 setup) almost a waste of time
272/272 was +2.1 HP / -9.6 ft/lbs (over 264/264 setup)

The 272/272 didn't do so well because it was only a 16G equiped car had that been a larger turbo the gains would have been better with no loss in torque. Basically the point is the straight 264's will give a huge increase in power for those who worry. Anybody with the ability to tune should have no problems with the 272 combo. They are very streetable and many guys run around with them all the time.

92awddsm I'm interested to see your numbers with the comp cams to see if they are close to the gains typically seen by HKS cams.

i wish they would do a test with like an sc61 or something. i went from stock cams to 272's on a pte.56 trim. it was insane and i have no problems driving my car on the street.

 

[anconover]

any luck yet?

 

[MattO]

I too like many others am eagerly awaiting the dyno results of these COMP cams (101200). I have had a set of HKS 272's on order for 3 months now. I've called almost every vendor on HKS's website looking for the 272 exhaust cam. The cams are the only thing that I'm waiting on to put my car back together. The car is in the garage on jack stands just collecting dust.

If these COMP cams turn out some decent dyno numbers, I'm going to get a set of the larger ones. I'm trying to have my car ready for the DSM Shootout this year. At the rate that I'm going here, I don't know if its an option.

So long story short...dyno these suckers so the community knows what they are capable of.

Good luck!!

Matt

 

[rarson]

I think dyno numbers would show a much larger increase in power if it were tested on a stock 2g head. I can't believe how much more power my car made with Webs, and how much more airflow I achieved. And this is with a small 16g.

Most people say that big cams are ass on the street because most people don't bother degreeing them when they install them. Anyone who knows anything about cams knows that the "lumpy idle" is most often caused by excessive overlap between the exhaust and intake cams. If you throw adjustable cam gears on the car and tweak them, you'll get a perfect idle and better power delivery (I went from 8" of vacuum to 15").

And it's not THAT hard to get a car into 12's on a small 16g... I mean, my car ran 12.37 @ 111 pretty much just cams, 1g TB, 20 psi, and tuning (plus all the other basic mods like exhaust and intercooler). I'm expecting with a little tweaking of my setup and some better tuning, race gas, and more boost, I should be able to crack off an 11 on a cold night... but we'll see. Oh yeah, I guess weight reduction does help a bit, but add in the extra 200 lbs or so and it'll still be a 12-second quarter mile.

 

[awdsm drft]

My buddy's comp cams are in the mail. Reallllllly excited to see how it runs.

 

[92awddsm]

I checked yesterday and comp has finally sent some out. The exhaust cams were factory back ordered. I should have mine next week but Im also having oral surgery next week so I dont know when I will get them in.

 

[anconover]

Ive seen dyno results. The 101100's put down around 10-12hp MORE than the HKS 264's. The 101200's Also Put down close to 23hp MORE than straight HKS 272's. It seems the 101200's may has a little less power very early in the RPM range, the 272's actually seem a little torquer way down low, but they def over power the 272's top end.

 

[!^3]

Ive seen dyno results. The 101100's put down around 10-12hp MORE than the HKS 264's. The 101200's Also Put down close to 23hp MORE than straight HKS 272's. It seems the 101200's may has a little less power very early in the RPM range, the 272's actually seem a little torquer way down low, but they def over power the 272's top end.

Perhaps, but other readers should take this with a grain of salt due to how volatile different dynos' numbers can be. Even three Dynojets can come up with three completely different numbers for the same car. I don't think it can be easily generalized that 101200's or 101100's will always beat HKS cams. Also, I'd like to see some dyno sheets that show these findings. If they are a more agressive cam, that makes sense that the Comp's outpower the 272's up high but not down low. Again, I'd like to see these dyno sheets to compare the curves.

 

[anconover]

Sure every dyno can be different, but people wanted dyno results, so i got them. I doubt most are gonna goto 5 dyno's and take an average. These dyno results are from forced performances dyno.

Sorry for the image Size.

101100's vs stock cams vs HKS 264s. All Directly dropped in no degreeing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

HKS 272's dropped in vs comp 101200's (new index) vs 101200's (old index)

As you will see in this dyno, it seems to have 2 different dyno pulls for the comp cams. The green is the way the comp cams were first indexed, the red is how they currently are, you dont get that drop that you will see. So red is current.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Tyler_Baker]

I got my 100200 for $275 shipped through my work, so I really could not past the deal up. I went from stock 1g pistons, stock exhaust, and stock cams, but when I built my new motor I went with 2g pistons, 3" turbine back exhaust, and 100200's. Somehow the new motor feels like it has more torque from 1000-3000rpm, but 3200-4000 lacks a little. Once I can spin that 76 trim (exhaust) wheel it's a raped ape. Just recently was I able to walk (three car lengths) my buddy's 1900lbs CRX with a 190whp B18a1 on the freeway from a 60mph roll on. The top end on the car is money.

 

[gritsak]

I got my 100200 for $275 shipped through my work, so I really could not past the deal up.

hook a brotha up!

if someone wants to give me a good deal on these i can do a before and after 1/4 run

 

[eclipsegsx9797]

im very interested in these 101200 cams now from that dyno chart. if they out perform them 272's there on order tomorrow . im going to give a few shops a call and see what they think about them.

how is the idle with these is it about the same or better then the 272's( when i say better i mean sounding wise) nothing beats a dsm with 272's

 

[anconover]

Theyre suppose to idle well i think.

 

[Tyler_Baker]

Theyre suppose to idle well i think.

I pull 15-12 inches of mercury at idle, not too lumpy but aggressive sounding.

 

[anconover]

so when do you hit full boost on ur car with the 101200's on your 50trim?

 

[Tyler_Baker]

so when do you hit full boost on ur car with the 101200's on your 50trim?

I have the .63ar with the 76 trim exhaust wheel running 23 psi

1st gear 5500
2nd gear 4500
3rd gear 4100
4th gear 3900
5th gear 3900

 

[DSMJim]

Any update on this yet?

 

[92awddsm]

Yes, I finally got the cams. Now Im waiting on dyno time. As it stands right now, they wont be able to get me in until the end of next week or the first of the following. That gives me a little time to get the new eprom from Jeff O at dsmchips.com I will let everyone know the outcome after I get it done.

 

[DSMJim]

How was the install? Did you degree the cams or install them straight up with your stock cam gears?

 

[44pirate]

Wow you just took the words out of my mouth. If I hear one more loser tell me that 12.1 on my turbo is not fast because XXXX person did 12.1 on a 16G im gonna ####ing punch them in the mouth. Funny thing is anybody who says that shit is never the guy who is going 12.1 on a 16G because guys who do that know how hard it is to get there. Banannas who run 14's and say they "know a guy" are gonna start to get their asses knocked out.

I know this is kinda late, but AMEN bro.

 

[92awddsm]

How was the install? Did you degree the cams or install them straight up with your stock cam gears?

I installed them straight up with stock gears, and no I havent degreed them yet. So far, I had to richen up low th at 1000 rpm(safc) a total of 17% and everything else 5-10% low and high throttle. The install took a total of 40 minutes. I am going to reinstall the stock cams before the dyno time and make a couple of pulls and the put the comps back in during my cooldown time. They will also be degreed during the reinstall, but I dont really think that I am going to need cam gears. Idle is a little choppy, but not really any different than the hks 272's. I havent had any issues with stalling but I did have to raise rpm's with biss. I am getting the new chip for it before dyno day also with increased idle speed so that will cure the 200 rpm idle surge that I have now. I can honestly say that I am satified with the performance of these cams so far. Low end is non existent out of boost but even so, the car is still really streetable. In my honest opinion, it was money well spent. For those of you that think HKS cams are the only way to go, I have to say you are wrong. If you really feel the need to spend the extra $150 on them because they are proven, be my guest. I have driven a car with the hks's and dont see any difference. I will let everyone know more later but from the 3 days they have been in the car, they have worked very well.

 

[Violater101]

I know the guy in question whose dyno chart is listed above and his car idles like stock. His car is insanely fast and he's really happy with the new cams. Keep us posted on your results

 

[DSMJim]

I installed them straight up with stock gears, and no I havent degreed them yet. So far, I had to richen up low th at 1000 rpm(safc) a total of 17% and everything else 5-10% low and high throttle. The install took a total of 40 minutes. I am going to reinstall the stock cams before the dyno time and make a couple of pulls and the put the comps back in during my cooldown time. They will also be degreed during the reinstall, but I dont really think that I am going to need cam gears. Idle is a little choppy, but not really any different than the hks 272's. I havent had any issues with stalling but I did have to raise rpm's with biss. I am getting the new chip for it before dyno day also with increased idle speed so that will cure the 200 rpm idle surge that I have now. I can honestly say that I am satified with the performance of these cams so far. Low end is non existent out of boost but even so, the car is still really streetable. In my honest opinion, it was money well spent. For those of you that think HKS cams are the only way to go, I have to say you are wrong. If you really feel the need to spend the extra $150 on them because they are proven, be my guest. I have driven a car with the hks's and dont see any difference. I will let everyone know more later but from the 3 days they have been in the car, they have worked very well.

40mins to install? Did you just take the upper cover off the timing belt, use some clips on the belt and cam gears (or mark it) and hope the timing on the bottom end didn't move or what? I honestly dont think I could do that in 40 mins.

If you could tell me how you did it so I have an idea. I'm getting these cams shortly and wanna know how easy it is to do the install. To be honest I have never installed a set of cams or done a timing belt on a dsm so I really have no idea about how hard it is.

 

[92awddsm]

40mins to install? Did you just take the upper cover off the timing belt, use some clips on the belt and cam gears (or mark it) and hope the timing on the bottom end didn't move or what? I honestly dont think I could do that in 40 mins.

If you could tell me how you did it so I have an idea. I'm getting these cams shortly and wanna know how easy it is to do the install. To be honest I have never installed a set of cams or done a timing belt on a dsm so I really have no idea about how hard it is.

Well, if you look on the rear of the timing cover(firewall side), you will see a small black rubber plug. If you pull this plug, is is the access for compressing the tentioner. You can either get the tool to do this from mitsu or you can make it from the battery hold down bolt. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbeltNOTE1.html this is the link for making it. Just screw the bolt in and just barely take a little tention from the belt. I actually zip tied the belt to the sprockets so nothing moved. Next, remove the cam gear bolt. I had my wife help with this and I do recommend getting a couple of extra hands. Now the cam caps can be removed but loosen all the caps equally so there is no stress on any single part of the cam from the tension on the valve springs. After each cam was unbolted, I had my wife hold up on the gear and belt as I slid the old cam out and replaced with the new. I did 1 cam at a time and after everything was back together, I removed the tesioner tool, spun the motor over several time with a breaker bar and checked the timing marks. Everything lined up as it was supposed to and all that was pulled was the valve cover, upper timing cover and the cas. I have done similar on a honda before and seen other people do it also. As long as you take your time and dont take much tension off of the belt, you should be fine.

 

[44pirate]

This is what I followed.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/caminstructions.htm