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just got a neon cough, cough, i mean 98 gs

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so-this-is-dsm

10+ Year Contributor
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Jun 5, 2011
lynnwood, Washington
i geuss as a tech i should have know what this car really was before i traded my 91 jeep cherokee for it but who cares it gets good gas milage and its BLACK!
no more white cars please:(
ive got a bad as turbo car but its WHITE and looks like crap compared to the same car black. rather drive slow black eclipse with nice rims:)
ok so theres all kinds of stuff wrong with this 420a car its got a clutch issue first and foremost. the master was leaking and clutch wouldnt fully disengage so i replaced it, same problem, bled it several times slave shows no leaks and yes i pulled the boot off, need i say im a tech i know what to look for. so i might be a newb on here but ive been doing this longer than most have been posting:)
slave seems to travel 1/2" but clutch is just not quite disengaged and you gotta force it in gear and it doesnt grind so yes my syncros are good, thank god. i maxed out the master on the pedal and it works now but engages right away. so if you dont really push the clutch in as far as possible its hard to shift. i know this isnt normal.
before i figure this out i drained the tranny and added new atf+4 for chrysler/mopar 2.1 quarts the other stuff was brownish black and smelled really weird, not atf though. so anyway other than no door key and a keyless that works horrible with new batt and a pinched fender/door and messed up drivers door handle and peeling clear coat everywhere and broken power window switch and bad wheel bearing(s) or warped rotors, im good:)
i love the cars looks and interior so im happy and i get ok milage as far as i can tell even tough my tb is coated in black crap on the backside and wont clean off.and ###### need 10 cans of seafoam and injectors cleaned.
if anyone has insight on the clutch issue lemme know.... maybe the flex plate is messed up? modular clutch LOL
 
YouTube - ‪Proper Clutch Adjustment‬‏



Also, to reply to the question. Make sure the slave cylinder is a MITSUBISHI factory part. When it comes to that stuff not only will the slave and master last LONGER once you get it dialed in, but it will also be correct the FIRST time. Then you won't have any issues with it. Also, check this out:
YouTube - ‪Pivot Ball Shimming‬‏
This explains if you need to shim the fulcrum ball.
Also, make sure the slave rod is FACTORY. A lot of guys will modify something that will look stock and it's really not and gives you a TON of headaches down the road.
 
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thanks for the videos. probably some of the best ive seen, except pic quality was iffy. so the 420a and 4g63 motors are backwards, weird

that technique worked clutch is perfect. thanks .
now question, are the gs cars supposed to feel so slow and sluggish or are they kinda zippy?? i dont wanna turbo it (yet) but this is kinda lame and it runs good no codes. i just didnt think these cars were this slow
 
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heres pics if anyone cares, this is how i got the car. ive fixed all the problems except the a/c clutch not engaing and the shaking vibaration at 60mph and the paint LOL

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Ok I have an update on my car.The clutch is perfect and the car shifts great.
I tore into things today. I could lift and push down on the balljoint almost 1/4- 1/2" so I replaced both of the straight lower control arms. I suspect that my drivers side wheel bearing is bad though, if I grab the wheel i can wiggle it side to side slightly and I cannot do it on the other side. So the lower control arm balljoints didnt change anything. It still vibarates at 60mph. I don't want to throw parts at this car, nor do i have the money to do so. My rotor might be slightly warped, i cant tell, but I dont think it would cause my problem. I can move the tierod ends if I twist on them but I really think that's normal on most cars. I might have a bad rear motor mount too but haven't verified it just yet, I geuss that could cause the problem.
Any ideas or input anyone? I'm done geussing.
 
Definitely a bad wheel bearing.
So you don't think anything else could cause it to only shake at 60mph?
I've dealt with bad wheel bearings before and at work and they usually had a bumpy feel.
When i shut the engine off I sometimes hear something rattle and that had me wondering.
I wish I still had my job. Theres alot to be said for having a full shop at your disposal to diagnose a problem quicker, and I could check my alignment and balance my wheels to rule all of that out as well.
Thanks for the reply
 
A non-turbo car will definatly feel slow compared to your turbo car. They are decent, but not really quick.

A shake at a certain speed only usually points to a tire problem. Perhaps you might have one tire that is not made correctly. How's the struts on the car? Worn out struts can cause goofy tire wear and thus translate into unwanted vibrations.
 
So you don't think anything else could cause it to only shake at 60mph?
I've dealt with bad wheel bearings before and at work and they usually had a bumpy feel.
When i shut the engine off I sometimes hear something rattle and that had me wondering.
I wish I still had my job. Theres alot to be said for having a full shop at your disposal to diagnose a problem quicker, and I could check my alignment and balance my wheels to rule all of that out as well.
Thanks for the reply

If it wiggles side to side you should really check your tie rod end. Mine did the same thing when I got it.
 
I geuss I should mention the car makes noise at 60mph. its loud in the cab. The noise is odd though and sounds more like a whirl.
 
Wow that video was crazy!

So the car is fixed now. One of the front tires wasn't balanced right, I got it balanced along with the rest today, as well as an alignment check. They seem to think it was so off that someone must have put the weights in the wrong place to start with. What happen was the guy I got the car from blew out a tire on the freeway and bought a new rim and tire, so he thought something was wrong with the car as a result of the blow out like suspension damage. But it turns out some idiot balanced the tire wrong. It was so bad they thought i had a bent rim. It called for 10oz. to balance with the weights on it! So they removed all the weights and balanced it like it was nothing.

My next thing is going to be figuring out why every now and then the car smokes for no reason. It has been when i start it and take off a few minutes later and it smells bad like seafoam smoke. It goes away a minute later and doesnt do it again for days. I'm worried it might be a headgasket. My temperature gauge is always in the middle and the engine always seems to be pretty hot. Coolant looks okay but may have been a little low, oil is okay too. I geuss I can check the color of my plugs and do a compression test tomorrow.:(
 
If you don't see a leak, do a compression test.

I,m headed out to do that right now. Also the radiator cap isn't in great shape so im getting a new one. The inner gasket is good but the outer one is bad.
Might aswell get some NGK coppercore plugs while I'm at it.
 
Hey back to your first post you put atf+4 in the tranny. The old stuff smelled so bad because its a cirtain mineral blend. I was told by a mitsubishi tech/friend that bad things happen with the 420a transmissions when you dont use the stuff from the dealer. I know you said your a tech and I'm sure you looked it up but I figured I would just throw in my 2 cents and hope nothin bad happends. The stuff from the dealer is like 16 bucks a quart sooooo not cheap!
 
Hey back to your first post you put atf+4 in the tranny. The old stuff smelled so bad because its a cirtain mineral blend. I was told by a mitsubishi tech/friend that bad things happen with the 420a transmissions when you dont use the stuff from the dealer. I know you said your a tech and I'm sure you looked it up but I figured I would just throw in my 2 cents and hope nothin bad happends. The stuff from the dealer is like 16 bucks a quart sooooo not cheap!

Everything I read said to use ATF+4 since the Mopar/Chrysler stuff is no longer available. Alldata says "Texaco MTX FLUID FM".
But I read this among many other threads on here.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/215033-preffered-manual-trans-fluid-420a.html

Back to my motor issues. I ran a compression test, and yes I pulled all the plugs first, incase of cross cylinder leakage. I never test a motor with plugs in any of the cylinders, but I know people like to test as they remove the plugs and this is bad because it can hide a cross cylinder gasket leak. Anyways I got 180psi on every cylinder and my plugs were all the same as far as looks, just old. So I installed NGK coppers. And to finish the day off a new radiator cap and I flushed the power steering fluid and replaced it with dexron 3 which wasn't what was in it and might be debatable too, but Alldata calls for Dexron 2. Someone put mineral oil in it instead and the pump is noisy as a result. So I'm still waiting for the car to puff smoke again but so far nothing?!
 
Ya they deffidently get boring quick! I have a 95 420a eclipse I bought a few months back and I thought it would be snappier myself. And it sucks going up hills!!! So I've decided to say f**k it and bout a 95 gst that needs some fixing up for $1650 turbo I'm pretty sure is shot bc of white smoke from exhaust with 3 compression test done 1 with all plugs out and 2 with takin 1 out at a time. All came back good. But neways getting off topic but ya the n/t just really arent fun
 
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