just did some work, made some adjustments, need a bit of help

[pearl4gtsi]

so, i was working on the wip today. had to change my alternator. just got mmcd, so i figured lets start from square one and resest the ecu.

things i did:
set base timing to 5* btdc
set fuel pressure to 40 psi
set maf-t to injector size( wont run when set to 560's, which is what i have, but it works when set to 570's??)
set tps to 10.1% with car off using mmcd

after all this, i watched my fuel trims. got them all to 100% by adjusting the s-afc. took the car out for a drive. on the drive i noticed that the s-afc throttle % was too high. pulled over and checked it out. the s-afc read 100% when the mmcd reads 60%. thats deffintetly not right. so i went to sensor check on the s-afc to check tps voltage at wot. the voltage is like 4.9v. and i checked it with my foot off the gas and it reads .49v. so i know the voltage is right, and i know the mmcd is right, so then why is the s-afc off?? anybody ever run into this problem??

also while driving, i was getting alot of knock readings. im assuming it could be because of this tps% discrepency, but dont want to assume anything until i can figure this out and take it out again.

also, off topic a bit, but ive had some trouble with the car overheating. not massively so, but enough. so while at idle, i noticed that the rad fan kicks in at around 235*F. it should kick in sooner. my first thought is that the rad. fan temp sensor is on its way out? not sure.

any help would be great. trying to get this car in order cause its my dd. thnx in advance

 

[khartley]

Your knock sensor could be going bad and reading erratically, check it and see if it is gooey at all, and if it is, I'd plan on replacing it.

You could try pulling that sensor out and cleaning it a little, otherwise if you want it to run cooler a cheap fix would be a colder thermostat, the one in my car is 180 degrees and that seems to work well for me. An even cheaper fix would be to push on the a/c button to make the auxiliary fan come on, assuming you still have all that hooked up.

Not sure if you have a FMIC or not but just so you know, that will make your car run somewhat hotter.

 

[-red97rum-]

If you're seeing knock while just cruising around 99%of the time it's going to be phantom knock. I've never really found a for sure reason for PK but it does exist. It could be from drive train noise, lifter tick etc. Next time you start to get that knock, let up on the gas and get right back on it again. If it goes away then it's definitely phantom knock. There are various threads out there with suggestions to try and fix it but I could never really get rid of it. I never had it really bad but it would still show up now and then. Thankfully the tuning software I use now has a phantom knock code which ignores knock below a certain throttle position.

Can you go through the options and reset the throttle position % in the safc? Maybe it got thrown all out of whack when you adjusted the tps.

 

[pearl4gtsi]

i have to run down and check the knock sensor. its only two years old. put it in when i did the motor. although that doesnt mean it cant have gone bad already.

as far as the overheating, i have that fixed. it was the cooling fan switch in the radiator. was going bad i guess, i replaced it and now the fan kicks on when its supposed to. now i have to fix my thermostat. i got one of those fail safe ones that lock in the open position when u overheat. so the car takes a bit longer to warm up.

i do have a front mount on the car, but its not yet hooked up. need to get a slim fan for the j-pipe to fit. so right now its just for show.

again the knock i still have to look into. gonna see if i can get a log or 2 posted. and i found out that with the s-afc, u have to hold the gas pedal near or at 100% for about 60 seconds so it "learns" wot and closed throttle.

thnx for the help guys.