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Just Bought A GSX And Now I Have A Lot Of Questions

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alex99gst

20+ Year Contributor
1,339
24
Feb 10, 2003
Nashville, Tennessee
Alright, so today i went out and spent $2500 of my hard earned money and got a GSX that I am in love with now.

1. It has a SFP tubular manifold with 5 EGT probes in it WTF that aren't plugged up to anything yet. Should I keep one and plug the other holes up with something, and if so, will these work as plugs?(http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2019&)

2. If I keep one EGT probe, if I just bought a gauge for it would it all hook up alright? All I have is the probe and wiring.

3. The guy gave me a "Spec 3" clutch and a stock flywheel and said they need to be replaced eventually. Does anybody have any experience with the "Spec 3" clutch? Clutch and flywheel both have small rust spots that I guess I can take off with brake cleaner.

4. He had all this done but no boost controller or boost gauge WTF I have the boost controller, but the top allen screw thing wont go in but maybe 1/16" so i know thats not right. Should i try to find an allen wrench and screw it in farther and get a gauge and see what happens?

5. I was also given a set of front axles and he said that the boots were cracked and they needed to be replace. I'm not farmiliar with axles, so any help is appreciated.

6. When I was inspecting the car, I couldnt see the timing marks at the time. Later after purchasing it we are stopped and I was checking on everything and the timing marks look like the picture. It also has a Goodyear timing belt :nono: so I know that needs to go soon. I'm not already screwed am I?

Lastly, it is dark here, but I will get some pics for you guys tomorrow hopefully if I'm not working. Thanks
 

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Axles aren't too bad to replace. I did both of my fronts in the past month. Drain tranny fluid (24mm drain bolt, 17mm fill bolt, take fill bolt off first) Take off the wheels, break the 32mm axle nut with a breaker bar and a large pipe or something, take off the bolts for the tie rod and ball joints (19mm) , then swing the hub outta the way. Should come out and go back in pretty easily. Make sure to only put the new one in as far as the old one was. Check the old before you take it out. On the passenger side there is a plate bolted to the frame that has four bolts which probably need to come off and then remove the plate. On the driver's side, there is a carrier bearing which bolts to the block with two bolts (14mm) that many suggest taking off the downpipe to get to. Mine is still the stock one and all rusty, so I left it on, and it can be done without removing it. My axle's both had ripped boots, and the rust wasn't too bad around the areas to break the bolts loose or remove the axles from the hubs. Depends where your car has been though. Found some torn boots when I went and did mine. I would suggest against using a pickle fork and go to Autozone and rent a tie rod separator. It won't work for the ball joint though probably since the space is very tight. But the boot is only a $10 dealer part (which I have if you need one, PM me). Good luck, PM me with any questions you have, or read the tech article on this site if you need more info. And hit me up with some rep points. :)
 
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