Just bought a 91 Eclipse FWD turbo, runs terrible

[fallenauthority]

Ok I used to have a 95 talon a few years ago, got into some other things and today went and bought a 91 Turbo FWD for 200 bucks. Body is mint, everything is pretty legit, Odometer reads 248k but I compression tested when I got home all cylinders read 150-155 across the board.
Driving home the car ran terrible, idled at like 2k, wouldnt go over 2k to 2500 when driving wouldnt really go past 55 in 5th, acted as if it was being restricted by a blockage in the exhaust, like a locked up turbo. Got home checked the turbo, rotates smooth, no hangups and no shaftplay.
Took plugs out, they were BLACK, new plugs but BLACK. Super rich. No oil on plugs or anything so rule that out.
So I figure hey check the ecu, I know 1gs had cap leak problems. I pull the ECU it has paint marker writing from a junkyard, "90 eclipse FWD turbo 2.0". I opened the ECU and no leaky caps or anything, everything looks good.
IIRC '90s had funky electronics and you couldnt use most electronics from them on other years (I would imagine that includes ECU)
CEL is on, cant read it because I have never messed with anything pre-OBDII.
I think I have given enough info. I would appreciate the feedback on where to look further.

 

[the_mork]

Post the ecu part number, and then open it up and post the number that is on the white part (where the connectors go in). This is probably from a 2.0 NT car. Get a new 91-94 ecu for a turbo car with a manual transmission. You will certainly have problems with your current ecu. FWIW the PO of my car did the same thing and I kept trying to track down boost leaks and change parts before I finally took the ecu out to check if it was eprom.

 

[fallenauthority]

Post the ecu part number, and then open it up and post the number that is on the white part (where the connectors go in). This is probably from a 2.0 NT car. Get a new 91-94 ecu for a turbo car with a manual transmission. You will certainly have problems with your current ecu. FWIW the PO of my car did the same thing and I kept trying to track down boost leaks and change parts before I finally took the ecu out to check if it was eprom.

This is from the outside
MD128625
E2T34474


Inside
4474A is on the connector inside

 

[92AWDHX40]

Get a code puller or logger, boost leak test, sounds like it needs mainteance.

 

[fallenauthority]

Messed with the car some more, started checking into more things because now the car wont idle and stay running.
pulled out the IAC to check it out because when the key was on with the car off you could hear it buzzing. Pulled it out it was completely closed and it was vibrating as if it was trying to close more. Tried another one that I had in my toolbox and it did the same thing. When I turned the key off it would move.
I swapped wires 14 and 6 at the ECU because it is a 90 ecu in a 91 to correct the MAF wires.
The throttle does not respond as it should. When I try to give it gas while trying to keep it running it is very laggy, as in I hit the gas and it takes a second or two to even try to rev up.
I am going to try to get an OBD1 scanner from a buddy at work tomorow to see if I can pull the codes. I tried using a test light to jump the OBD port and it wouldnt even blink at all.

 

[ilco187]

Things im thinking.

bad maf
cas 180 out or way off 5*
bad tps
bad egr sticking open
big boost leak

do a blt to eliminate anything like a bad intake gasket etc etc, just to give some ideas.

if you have a analog volt meter ECU Code Checking

 

[fallenauthority]

I forgot to say I toyed with the CAS as well, I adjusted it a bit at a time from front to back and no change in idle capabilities. I guess I will build another boost leak tester and give it a shot as well.
I thought about the MAF as well. I guess I will try to swap it out also.
Any test procedure for TPS?
Im about to just order a FIAV/IAC blockoff plate to eliminate all that junk and use the BISS to adjust idle, I did it on my 95 and it worked like a charm.

 

[the_mork]

This is from the outside
MD128625
E2T34474


Inside
4474A is on the connector inside

Checks out as an early turbo ecu.
http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECUID.html

This thread has info about wire swapping.
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160420&page=2

 

[fallenauthority]

Yep, swapped wires last night. Car still wont idle. I am going to try to snag an obd1 scanner from a friend at work today.

 

[fallenauthority]

Tonight I am going to take the ISC apart and set it half way open and put it back together and leave it unplugged and see if I can get it to idle. I will make further adjustments with the BISS after that.

 

[the_mork]

While it might be nice for the idle to be better the ISC isn't doing anything important to how the car runs the rest of the time. Perhaps your best option is to buy or borrow a logger and then check if the maf is giving sane reading, you aren't getting phantom knock, the o2 sensor is cycling, and that nothing else is acting overly funny.

 

[fallenauthority]

I know the isc has nothing to do with how the car runs other than idle. I stated earlier that I had to swap wires for the maf because it has a 90 ecu in it and the wires weren't swapped at 6 and 14 like they were supposed to be.
The problem right now is that the car won't idle. Haven't driven it to see if swapping maf wires helped driveability because the car won't idle at all right now, thus why I am tinkering with the isc.

So tonight after i put my FIAV blockoff plate on the throttlebody and went to reinstall it.....i saw the EGR valve was completely missing from the intake mani.....I am so relieved yet so mad that I chased my tail over the fact that some jackass took off the egr and didnt put a blockoff on there or anything.

 

[fallenauthority]

Car still ran bad after installing an egr blockoff, had no boost leaks, replaced ecu and it runs great now.

 

[ktyr5151]

Car still ran bad after installing an egr blockoff, had no boost leaks, replaced ecu and it runs great now.

Good to hear man