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je piston rings?

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Piston slap is not from rings. It is when the piston comes over TDC and the skit of the piston slaps the cylinder wall.

Excessive PTW is the main cause.

The reason the shop could/would not do your block could be because the equipment they use will not go small enough to fit your block.

Telling you you need rod bolts but the rod bolts need replaced sounds hokie to me.
 
From my experience, its going to be very difficult to find a short block. I recently just got my engine rebuilt after searching for two months to just find a replacement jdm engine. I have searched numerous websites that say they carry them, but after calling 20+ vendors, they told me that they didnt have any instock and were not sure when they would. But that is for a 1g7bolt. My best advice to you would be just to look into getting it rebuilt by a shop, it will probably be the most affordable route, which still isnt that affordable. Best of luck to you!
 
theres the best pictures i could get of the cylinders my crank is scratched i have only the one scratch in cylinder 4. and the bolt for the balancer is broke off in the crank. I can call a machine shop in alliance (60 miles away) and i can just buy new rods and new pistons with a bore and kinda start from scratch again. or i can still use the standard sized pistons and rods on a new block...
 

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IMHO, I would go buy a hone (~ $30) and try to hone it. If you can run your nail over the scratch and it doesn't catch, you have a good chance of a hone taking it out (then you can run standard sized pistons), if not you will have to have the block bored (then you have to get oversized pistons to match how much it had to be bored). The crank could be fixed, but it may just be easier to get a new or freshly machined crank. Keep in mind that if you do have that crank fixed or you get one that has been fixed, you would need bearings to match (example, if they had to turn it and cut .010, then you will have to get .010 thicker bearings).
 
I think i need to get it bored because it seems like a pretty good scratch the way your talking ### i can feel it with the tip of my finger and i can tell where it is without uusing my fingernail. I think im gonna do some looking around for a new crankshaft.... and just take my block to a machine shop in rapid and have them bore the cylinders and buy new rods, and buy new pistons. because i dont know how relyable the rods i have now even tho the machine shop said that there ok. so i think new crank... bore cylinders with brand new internals?
 
If you have eagle rods then I am sure they at fine. I would at this point trust a machine shops word over yours sorry. So that's one less thing you need. Take the block in to get honed and bored after you buy new pistons (so they correctly set the PTW clearance). You don't need to source a new one when you have one in front of you, just more money you'll end up spending.

At the same time you take the block to get worked on, just take the crank you have to get checked out. If you need over sized bearings, they are not that expensive.
 
Do not buy pistons yet.

Here is how getting a block bored, and ordering pistons should go.

1) drop block of at machine shop
2) Shop rough bores block
3) pistons are ordered
4)Block is honed to final size

No need to order .020 pistons if the block has to go .030
 
This is what that rod looks like that gives me a bad feeling to re use it...
 

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