J-pipe/LICP

[Jeremoose]

Should I go with a j-pipe that bolts up to my stock piping or purchase a full LICP from dejontool to install my s16g?

 

[kawboy]

Either one would work but I would reccomend the full LICP from Dejon Tool. They make great quality products, and plus I'd much rather have a one piece pipe. Less couplings = less chance of the pipe blowing apart or leaking.

 

[rjennings]

I would definately go with a J-Pipe. I'm guessing your still using the stock SMIC, not only would the J-Pipe work great for the SMIC, but if ever you decide to upgrade to a FMIC you will be able to use the J-Pipe to connect the pipes to the FMIC. Check out Forced Performance for a great price on a J-Pipe.

If your worried about couplers blowing off, use T-Bolt clamps.

Randy

 

[Jeremoose]

Hmmm, one person for the LICP and one for the j-pipe route... Money aside: will there be any noticeable power gain going with the LICP over the j-pipe setup?

 

[Coder24]

I would definately go with a J-Pipe. I'm guessing your still using the stock SMIC, not only would the J-Pipe work great for the SMIC, but if ever you decide to upgrade to a FMIC you will be able to use the J-Pipe to connect the pipes to the FMIC. Check out Forced Performance for a great price on a J-Pipe.

If your worried about couplers blowing off, use T-Bolt clamps.

Randy

I agree with him. I have a Slowboy Racing J-pipe and had only one blowout. The only reason it even happend was it wasnt on tight enough. I don't believe you will see much of a difference in a full LICP than a J pipe.

 

[MrBoxx]

The only thing I'm concerned with about the dejon LICP is the lack of a nipple for a boost source for your MBC. There may be one, but it doesn't look like it in the picture. If you want, you could always drill and tap the pipe and install your own nipple, or purchase a LICP that already comes with one. The RRE J-pipe/L-pipe combo comes with one, for example. The price for those pipes and hardware is nearly the same price as the dejon set, but only come in one color. So I guess it's up to you what you want to do.

 

[VTEC-THIS]

The only thing I'm concerned with about the dejon LICP is the lack of a nipple for a boost source for your MBC. There may be one, but it doesn't look like it in the picture.

This really doesn't matter. Most company's will tell you to run your boost controller off the line that runs from your intake mani to your CBV. This will give you an ACTUAL boost pressure in your manifold, and is a little less likely to vary based on weather. (YOU WILL still need to turn it down in the winter)

So, I wouldn't let this affect your decision.

And, to make life easier, I would just go with our 2G install kit. This has everything you need to make the install easy, and even has that nipple you are talking about. Its a nice upgrade from your factory LICP. You can see it here:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=93&

Good Luck,

Chris
SlowBoy Racing
1-724-349-8417 X 16

 

[Jeremoose]

This really doesn't matter. Most company's will tell you to run your boost controller off the line that runs from your intake mani to your CBV. This will give you an ACTUAL boost pressure in your manifold, and is a little less likely to vary based on weather. (YOU WILL still need to turn it down in the winter)

So, I wouldn't let this affect your decision.

And, to make life easier, I would just go with our 2G install kit. This has everything you need to make the install easy, and even has that nipple you are talking about. Its a nice upgrade from your factory LICP. You can see it here:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=93&

Good Luck,

Chris
SlowBoy Racing
1-724-349-8417 X 16

Thanks a lot, I think I may just go with this

 

[VTEC-THIS]

These are in stock and ready to ship as well.

 

[oldman]

This really doesn't matter. Most company's will tell you to run your boost controller off the line that runs from your intake mani to your CBV. This will give you an ACTUAL boost pressure in your manifold, and is a little less likely to vary based on weather. (YOU WILL still need to turn it down in the winter)

Just because most companies tells you to tap the BOV doesn't mean it's right. There has been alot of discussions on this subject lately and tapping the BOV line is definitely the thing of the past, the BOV line is actually the worst place to tap.

 

[VTEC-THIS]

I'm interested to hear your thoughts on why.

 

[oldman]

Let's break it down into pros and cons of tapping the BOV line vs. compressor/jpipe/licp.

Pros :

1.

This will give you an ACTUAL boost pressure in your manifold

You will always get the ACTUAL boost pressure in the manifold because the boost gauge is always tapped at the manifold, the difference between the two is a slight adjustment on the mbc.

2.

and is a little less likely to vary based on weather. (YOU WILL still need to turn it down in the winter)

Agreed.

Cons:

1. Proper functioning of your BOV depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure signal on your BOV line, tapping it for your mbc will result in pressure being bleed off by the wastegate pressure relief hole on your mbc causing the BOV to open slightly under boost. The effect is doubled when using a bleeder type mbc which turns into a vacuum leak affecting a/f ratio as well as BOV reaction time. You can verified this by running a intake leak test without disabling the mbc, as soon as the mbc starts to bleed off pressure, watch as the BOV starts to open. Repeat test with mbc disabled and the BOV will seal properly. This to me is the most important reason to leave the BOV line alone.

2. Tapping the compressor housing will greatly reduces the chance of over boosting the turbo due to suddent developed boost leaks by opening the wastegate earlier and reflect the leaks immediately on your boost gauge instead of still seeing the same boost level on the gauge while over working the turbo to overcome the leak, this probably has alot to do with boost leaks being one of the top turbo killers.

3. Tapping the compressor housing will greatly reduces the chance of boost spikes due to short vacuum route, I have helped many in solving boost spikes by simply switching from bov/manifold to the compressor housing.

There are probably more but #1 alone was convincing enough for me.

 

[VTEC-THIS]

No shit. I'd only heard #2 before today. This to me, is kinda useless, since 9/10 times I have a problem, the first test is boost leak.

I really may have to try the test in #1, since I have NEVER had a problem with losing boost, or overworking my turbo's.

But, luckily, our kit comes with a nipple.

Thanks for the intelligent responce. It's a nice change.

 

[oldman]

This to me, is kinda useless, since 9/10 times I have a problem, the first test is boost leak.

If only everyone would do the same, I would have nothing to post about.

Thanks for the intelligent responce. It's a nice change.

No problem.

 

[andymoraitis]

I'm firmly with Bruce on this one. I've tried both ways and the level of reaction to boost was MUCH faster at the j-pipe than by teeing off the BOV. I'd rather have the MBC get a better reading and this is the best spot for it. In addition, it keeps the source lines short, which aids in the MBC's reaction time as well.

Just my .02,

Andy

 

[kawboy]

You would have to drill and tap the stock T-25 to install the MBC right?

 

[MrBoxx]

Nope. The T25 comes stock with a nipple on the compressor housing.

 

[Coder24]

 

[kawboy]

Nope. The T25 comes stock with a nipple on the compressor housing.

Thanks

What's that nipple normally used for? Is it plugged? If not, what does it route to? Thanks

 

[MrBoxx]

What's that nipple normally used for? Is it plugged? If not, what does it route to?

On a stock car, that line routes to the BCS, which is Mitsubishi's version of a boost controller.

 

[kawboy]

Yea, I know what the BCS is