Its CLUTCH time

[talontsi3]

Well its time for a clutch, my stock clutch is just slipping a redic amount. I think Im going to go with the act 2100. I was going to get a fidanza flywheel but I dont want to make a track car, and I dont have the money right now. My question is is there anything I should replace while doing the clutch job? I want to get it done right the first time Thanks

 

[carsaval]

ok replace the throwout bearing you get with a mitsubishi one, unless im wrong senior members please stand up. I have seen the mitsu the act and an orielly(autozone) throwout bearing and by far looks to be better quality and thats ### i used with no problems. Get an extended clutch rod, 20 bucks on ebay, also get a ss line to replace the slave resiovior. This will give your clutch more pressure and alonger travel. Makes it feel like you just payed a million bucks.

 

[hewhoisknot]

On a side note, I know you don't have the money, but a lightened flywheel in my opinion does not make the vehicle any harder to drive as a daily driver. When I swapped out my clutch just to kill two birds with one stone I swapped the flywheel too. I have to say in my experience that thing is all pros no cons.

BUN

 

[DGajre777]

Here is your complete list:
1) Rear main oil seal.
2) Clutch slave cyl (inspect and replace if worn)
3) Clutch master cyl (inspect and replace if worn)
4) Resurface flywheel for the ACT clutch (make sure it is stepped right)
5) Mitsubishi throw-out bearing
6) Clutch fork and fulcrum ball (inspect and replace if worn)

 

[talontsi3]

Awesome Thanks guys. Do you think the 2100 will do or should I go with the 2600 to be safe? I want to be in the 300-350 rang. I have been going back and forth on what clutch.. From reading other posts the 2100 should do just fine for that power?

 

[SnowBird]

2100 is probally ok if you are only FWD, but spend the extra cash for the 2600. Hell, check the classifieds for a pressure plate, and just buy a new street disk. I bought a SBR 3500 PP from the classifieds used, a brand new street disk, and mitsu TOB and ended up only spending $200! The PP is the heart of the clutch so go more than the 2100 if you are looking towards 350 WHP, it wont hurt.

 

[talontsi3]

ok Thanks Ill do some searching. My mechanic said he wants nothing to do with it so now Im calling around to see who can. Im looking at 550-700$depending on where I go. Im really thinking about just getting the fly wheel now. but is it nessasary for just having that amount of power and how its fwd? Im just afraid of the traction issue. thanks again

 

[Dream On]

Get an extended clutch rod

By the way, don't do this. This is a bandaid fix for other problems. Just do as DGajre777 said.

 

[talontsi3]

I'm not trying to be a pain but so dont get an extended clutch rod. just do the list that DGajre777 put? What would it be bandaid fixing thanks for all the help I just want to get it done right and over with. Thanks again

 

[Dream On]

Usually the extended rod just makes up for any play in the assembly. For 1g's, it's usually the wear in the pedal assembly. The same goes for putting washers under the pivot ball. If it's worn, just buy a new one. That's just my take on it, other have different opinions that they seem to work fine as well.

 

[nightspeed87]

yea i think mines are worn to hell also I have low pedal pressure and a lot of play at the top of the pedal travel.

I already have a fidanza 9lbs light weight flywheel, and once I get my jdm tranny I was going to get that rebuilt using double syncros
and then I was considering dropping in a Act 2600 clutch, and my horsepower goals are rather wide right now, but I can say Im looking for power anywhere from 300-500 wheel hp. Despite that I have a front wheel drive what would be a good ideal every day driven clutch for those power goals?

 

[talontsi3]

SO if I were to do the list that DG gave is it not nessasary to get the extended clutch rod or is that still a good idea?? thanks again,
alex