Is my engine hydro locked?

[90 TSI FWD]

After getting a chip for the DSM, there were always problems in the top end at WOT. This eventually led to numerous days of overheating, and coolant shooting from the overflow bottle. It wasn’t until the night that my brother and I were logging the car to send logs for a new chip that the head gasket decided to blow. There was a HUGE cloud of white smoke coming from the exhaust, and acceleration was slightly shaky. Unfortunately, we did not do a compression test, which is the reason for this thread. I’ll skip the disassembly pictures and save those for another project thread, but here is the Now.
After removal of the exhaust manifold and turbo, here’s what was found in the exhaust ports:

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Cylinder 1:

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Other cylinder ports:

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So while my brother was turning the engine to TDC, coolant shoots out of the spark plug hole from cylinder 1. Once the head was removed, here is what was revealed:

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..and the head gasket deformation in cylinder 1:

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Cylinder 1:

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Cylinder 2:

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Cylinder 3:

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Cylinder 4:

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Is there a chance that the engine could be hydro locked? Is there any way to test if the piston rings are still good? Here’s my concept: the head gasket was blown at a coolant port (picture) for quite some time, thus, the coolant was being pushed and the car was overheating. As time progressed, the portion of the blown head gasket increased, enough for the coolant to go inside the cylinder. But what concerns me is the possibility for the coolant to push past the piston rings… or is there a possibility?

Another side question: When you retorque the head studs after the heat cycles(how many heat cycles is sufficient?), must you back them all off ¼ turn, then retorque them in steps of 3? If so, must you back off in order of headbolt removal?

Thanks in advance

 

[j-jamrod]

most of the time for this kind of issues, the connecting rods tend to bend, remember that liquids are no compressible.....

 

[assault187]

EEK! Well, If you were able to rotate the engine to TDC like you already have then its not hydro-locked. As it sits now, there isnt really a good way to check the rings and bearings without a teardown. Drop the oil pan and inspect the rods and check for bearing shavings resulting from water on the surfaces rather then oil.

Someone else may think differently, but I think the cheapest way to go here is to clean the head thoroughly, clean the block surface and throw a new Head gasket on. When the motor is back togather use some cheap-o oil and rotate the oil pump by a drill to flush out remaining coolant in the oil system, drain oil, then do it a couple more times. Throw the timing back togather then fire it up. You may luck out rather then spending a considerable amount more.

As for the head bolts, I use ARP studs and tighten them in stages on 20-40-60-80-85, let the car go through 1 heat cycle (full operating temp, then cool down) then re-torque to desired torque

I think there is a good chance that you'll luck out, but if not, from the looks of those cylinder walls your about due for a rebuild

 

[turbo90gsx]

The cheapest way would deffinalty be to just put a head gasket on. If you are going to use an MLS gasket you should have the head re-serfaced, especialy since the car was over heating before.

Like Jamrod said, ussualy a hyrdolocked engine will either bend rods or blow pistons out. I would say depending on your compression (which you didn't check) it would probably be a good time to have the block inspected, honed, and decked, install new bearings and re-ring.

 

[90 TSI FWD]

EEK! Well, If you were able to rotate the engine to TDC like you already have then its not hydro-locked. As it sits now, there isnt really a good way to check the rings and bearings without a teardown. Drop the oil pan and inspect the rods and check for bearing shavings resulting from water on the surfaces rather then oil.

Rotatinng the engine was quite easy. I'm trying to stay away from the teardown. I can't afford to spend the money on bottom end work. Due to all my finals and homework, I won't be able to pull the pan this weekend. I will do that in a few days and report back here. I will also check my oil oil for coolant floating on top.

Someone else may think differently, but I think the cheapest way to go here is to clean the head thoroughly, clean the block surface and throw a new Head gasket on. When the motor is back togather use some cheap-o oil and rotate the oil pump by a drill to flush out remaining coolant in the oil system, drain oil, then do it a couple more times. Throw the timing back togather then fire it up. You may luck out rather then spending a considerable amount more.

Well, I am doing sonewhat of a complete overhaul. I'm changing almost everything maintenance-wise that you can think of. I will do what your saying about flushing the engine when everything is reassembled.

As for the head bolts, I use ARP studs and tighten them in stages on 20-40-60-80-85, let the car go through 1 heat cycle (full operating temp, then cool down) then re-torque to desired torque

Okay. I was recently told retorqing is not completely necessary, so I will retorque them once the new clutch is broken in.

I think there is a good chance that you'll luck out, but if not, from the looks of those cylinder walls your about due for a rebuild

The cylinder walls feel very smooth when I slide my nail accross the surface, so I'm hoping for the best!

 

[90 TSI FWD]

The cheapest way would deffinalty be to just put a head gasket on. If you are going to use an MLS gasket you should have the head re-serfaced, especialy since the car was over heating before.

Well, I'm' not striving for the cheapest fix, but the most reliable with having to deal with the bottom end. I am changing every seal and removing the balance shafts though. I will be running OEM composite, and I am having a shop clean/resurface the head, do a complete valve job, and assemble my valves/springs and new valve stem seals.

Like Jamrod said, ussualy a hyrdolocked engine will either bend rods or blow pistons out. I would say depending on your compression (which you didn't check) it would probably be a good time to have the block inspected, honed, and decked, install new bearings and re-ring.

Unless I find coolant in the oil or oil pan, I will probably stay away from bottom end work.


Here are some pictures of the pile of parts:

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..and many more.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[HIGHPSI4]

You just blew a head gasket. No biggie. The 'stuff' in the exhaust ports is coolent. Small amounts were leaking and the engine still ran and left those deposits. Put all the parts on it and a composite HG. Change the new oil several times to get out what little coolent may be in some galleys. Good luck.

 

[90 TSI FWD]

You just blew a head gasket. No biggie. The 'stuff' in the exhaust ports is coolent. Small amounts were leaking and the engine still ran and left those deposits. Put all the parts on it and a composite HG. Change the new oil several times to get out what little coolent may be in some galleys. Good luck.

Well, I took the oil pan off and found coolant. When I had a friend check out the bearings today, they just had normal wear and some evidence of coolant, but they were still fine. However, I'll be replacing the bearings with these clevites, and NPR piston rings from eBay. I'll also hone the cylinders and do that good stuff. Sorry I don't have pics. No batteries.