1G Is my ECU from a junkyard/ Is it correct for a GSX?

[Liger Zero]

I have a 1992 Eclipse GSX with alot of problems. I looked at the ECU and noticed that it was sitting in the mount completely unbolted so I pulled it out and took these pics of it. Im curious if it looks to be from a junkyard and if it is in fact the correct one for my car. Thanks!

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[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Generally they don't have yellow markings on it from the factory. I'd say it's from a junkyard.

 

[Liger Zero]

Is there a way that I can diagnose my ECU myself to see if something is wrong with it?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Really, what I normally do is find a buddy with the same car and swap it out with a known good one. If you lived close I'd do that for you.

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

Plug it in the car, start it up, if it starts, it works.

usually junk yard only tags them up with only 3 digit number.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

You can open it up and smell for a seafood smell. That generally means the CAPS are leaking and need replacing.

I know you are trying to diagnose your stalling problem. I would build that logger cable and see what all your sensor values are reading. Like we talked about your TPS earlier, if your TPS is way off from where it's supposed to be or it jumps around a lot then it will stall like that.

 

[joe sobo]

that is def. from a junk yard, with their item locator numbers. but usually the ones sold at the junkyard are from cars that come in wrecked. the ones the come in in cars that are not wrecked usually get sold to a ecu recycler.

 

[Liger Zero]

Haha, it definately works. But I dont think it works correctly. I cant get my car to idle steadily and I already replaced the ISC, all my vacuum lines, and "properly" adjusted my BISS to attempt to have it idle, instead it surges and stalls. Im trying to figure out how I can tell if my old ISC messed anything up and also maybe even figure out why I am overboosting and hitting fuel cut.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Overboosting? Or do you have a boost leak? That will throw you into fuel cut and make your idle all funky too. Are you still using the stock boost gauge or do you have an aftermarket one?

 

[Liger Zero]

It definately seems to be overboosting. It pegs 20 psi and hits fuel cut bad. I do have an aftermarket boost gauge, I got it to see what my car was actually doing, instead of trying t go off of the stock one.

 

[Cs4g63]

No that ECU is for a 90 DSM. You know how they say you can use the same ECU from 91-94 and 90 is diferent.

Link to the diference in pin locations.
1G ECU Pinouts

To give you an idea of what you need to do to use it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=5616663

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...4-ecu-swap-into-1990-dsm-ignition-wiring.html

 

[wickednightmare]

Haha, it definately works. But I dont think it works correctly. I cant get my car to idle steadily and I already replaced the ISC, all my vacuum lines, and "properly" adjusted my BISS to attempt to have it idle, instead it surges and stalls. Im trying to figure out how I can tell if my old ISC messed anything up and also maybe even figure out why I am overboosting and hitting fuel cut.

hey buddy depending on were you live i was going to say you could block the egr and just run the necessary vac lines if u want i can send u the diagram that would make sure ## lines arnt leaking because on the lines under the intake there metal and sometimes they leak

also what mods do u have

 

[steve]

If the board matches the case it's a 90 ECU and could explain the issues we have been discussing in the other thread. Pins 6 and 14 need to be swapped on the harness when using that ECU in a 91+ car.

Open the case up and take a picture of the board including the white edge connector.

As the other guys have stated, the yellow marker is a giveaway of a junkyard part.

 

[Liger Zero]

hey buddy depending on were you live i was going to say you could block the egr and just run the necessary vac lines if u want i can send u the diagram that would make sure ## lines arnt leaking because on the lines under the intake there metal and sometimes they leak

also what mods do u have

thatd be great if you could!!!

the known mods that i have are a front mount intercooler, walbro 190, k&n filter, greddy type s bov, and thermal r&d exhaust

 

[Liger Zero]

More pics of the ECU

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[Liger Zero]

btw i also noticed that pins 6 and 14 were not switched. and if i may ask, how can u tell its a 90 ecu? thanks

 

[wickednightmare]

btw i also noticed that pins 6 and 14 were not switched. and if i may ask, how can u tell its a 90 ecu? thanks

ah is your bov still recirculated if not it will idle surge if u want it recirculated u need to run a maft or vpc or aem im using the vpc from hks

 

[steve]

MD145903 E2T34478A = 1990 Federal Manual AWD ECU
Eclipse Talon Laser Galant 3000GT Stealth ECU ID Reference

Note that the number on the white connector matches the last 4 digits of the E2T number so it belongs in the case.

Someone changed the caps but I can't see enough detail to say how well or if there is any damage to the driver chips.

You need to release the pins from the connector and swap 6 and 14. Right now the ECU isn't seeing the IPS because it's not the wrong pin and won't try to manage the idle speed.

 

[Liger Zero]

oh ok, well i did switch pins 6 and 14. It definately seems better. No more idle surging, but now it has a high idle. When I correctly adjust the BISS when the ECU has no control over ther idle it sits right at 800 rpm, but when I remove the ground wires it jumps up to 1500rpm and stays. Im not sure what may be causing this, but it obvioulsy appears to be computer related. Is switching those 2 pins the only difference between the 90 and 91-94 ECU's? and if you want I can try and get a better picture of the ECU if needed.

 

[MaNGiNa24]

Nope, that ECU is from a 90 and everything leads to it being from a salvage yard.

 

[Liger Zero]

Yes, but is there any other difference between the 90 ECU other than those 2 pins that need switched?