The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Is it worth rebuilding a 182,000 mile engine???

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

90mitsu3clipse

15+ Year Contributor
114
0
May 24, 2006
waco, Texas
Do you guys think I should rebuild the block I have with a 182,000 miles on it, or buy a new block. I just rebuilt the head a month ago. I did a compression test last week and it was from 153 - 156 all the way across. Great compression but, I wonder how much longer the block will last?? I dont know if it has every been re-ringed but the walls looked pretty good for having that many miles on it.
 
a stroker is real expensive though, but my mechanics 1g is stroked, and let me tell you it gives it a lot more power, it will pull so much harder... But I believe there are disadvantages to this but not enough to out weigh stroking it... I think any block with that many miles will need at the very least new bearings and rings, and a new water pump would be a good idea... You may get away with just that and cleaning it up, but if you already have the block not inside a car then just gone and do as much as you can while its out, thatll be cheaper than having to go back in there in the future...
 
I did all the work the first time, so that saved me tons, and all I need is time. I just dont know if this block is worth rebuilding or should I get a new one? I dont know... My 05' Honda CBR600RR was stolen ablout 3 weeks ago and the insurance just gave me a check, so I have a little cash to spend.
 
I don't think you can even get a truly "new" block. Any one you'd buy from the vendors is probably just a rebuilt one anyways. Just rebuild yours, but not until it blows or something. You've got good compression, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
90mitsu3clipse said:
Even if I want to put like 350 to 425 hp to the ground?


( sorry to hear about your crx, i always pull my under enginebay ignition fuse out when I park awhile back I was contemplating making a fuel pump cut off switch and hiding it for when I park, just havent gotten around to doing it yet, probably will when I do the fuel pump rewire mod. )

If your trying to make any where near or over 400 hp your going to want to invest in stronger parts.... Even if the engine can handle 400 hp like claimed, it doesnt say it can survive a long time under everyday driving/ and racing conditions at the power level...
At the very least just get all your parts cryotreated to give a little better durability. ( like I did, this is my tuners/mechanics website www.gearracing.com
Click on the cryo link to read up on that.. And his car is the grey 1g under the pictures section, and the 4g63 with the red valve cover is my engine hes building. ) But yea, Otherwise you might want to upgrade to forged internals and parts that are capable of handling that much power daily.
 
Dream On said:
I don't think you can even get a truly "new" block. Any one you'd buy from the vendors is probably just a rebuilt one anyways. Just rebuild yours, but not until it blows or something. You've got good compression, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


I would have to agree, after all it is a DSM and if the thing is not broke/messed up leave it alone b/c inevitable you will end up spending more time and money than you expected
 
Stroker kits are not expensive the stage 3 2.3L kit from SBR is the same price as a JDM motor, I know I've checked im about to purchase one (not the stage 3) the only thing that would make it expensive would be the machine work and its not that expensive if the block is outta the car.
 
PFXGSX said:
Stroker kits are not expensive the stage 3 2.3L kit from SBR is the same price as a JDM motor, I know I've checked im about to purchase one (not the stage 3) the only thing that would make it expensive would be the machine work and its not that expensive if the block is outta the car.


What stage are you going to get? Do we ever have any grop buys?
 
PFXGSX said:
Stroker kits are not expensive the stage 3 2.3L kit from SBR is the same price as a JDM motor, I know I've checked im about to purchase one (not the stage 3) the only thing that would make it expensive would be the machine work and its not that expensive if the block is outta the car.


when your in college that is expensive....:toobad:
 
90mitsu3clipse said:
Hell yea, I'm in college too> I'm broke all the time.


yea here its like 200 dollars per class plus books....
Most of my dsm modding happens during the summer/ xmas/ bday/ and income tax time, other than that my car stays the same besides those times... Occasionally Ill sacrific money to buy something cheap but most of the stuff Ive done to the car have been stuff I can do myself...
 
nightspeed87 said:
yea here its like 200 dollars per class plus books....
Most of my dsm modding happens during the summer/ xmas/ bday/ and income tax time, other than that my car stays the same besides those times... Occasionally Ill sacrific money to buy something cheap but most of the stuff Ive done to the car have been stuff I can do myself...


Same here.

What else will I need to do when I install something like this... http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2006&
 
Personally, I would save your money for now unless you have the urge to spend LOL. You might as well wait till it gets to the point of needing to be rebuilt and just rebuild it.
 
Dream On said:
I don't think you can even get a truly "new" block. Any one you'd buy from the vendors is probably just a rebuilt one anyways. Just rebuild yours, but not until it blows or something. You've got good compression, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Yup, that's how you should think it! A 60 year old buddy of mine who built Nascar engines all his life always told me: "If it's not broke, don't fix it, save the money,other problems always show up!"
Get a cheapy longblock from a junkyard maybe? (after you do some basic chking on it!) and build that in time, when you got the money.
I'm doing so, after 2 years of savings, and it's pretty nice bc I can afford the setup that I always wanted with no compromise.
good luck
 
The short block will be fine to use. Go to DSMparts.com and get the 2.3L stroker kit for 1600$ cheapest around, comes with rods pistons, piston rings, and i believe a reconditioned crank. The strocker kit with provide you with 50 more HP, and 130ft/lb TQ, thats what FFWDConnection.com claims. Send the block out to be honed and decked by a machine shop,and o-ring it. Get some revised lifters from SBR for 150$, that will rid you of the infamous "tiking", fasten it all down with ARP headware, and main bolts. with that set-up for a bottom end you will have no problems with 400hp to the ground. If your still uneasy about your engine with 182k miles then hit the junk yards and find one with less miles and in good shape, and then built that ones bottom end, but Im confident with your 182k mile motor, considering mine has 193k miles, great compression across the cylinders, and its being used to get built. oh yeah if you didnt before get the head decked to ensure a perfect fitment, and get what ever HG you like to put the frosting on the cake(bottom-endLOL
 
I want more power, I ordered a booat controller and gauge. Ima see how much faster it will get with that. What else do I ned? I've tried searching, but its not very user friendly. It brings up everything except what i am looking for.
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
The short block will be fine to use. Go to DSMparts.com and get the 2.3L stroker kit for 1600$ cheapest around, comes with rods pistons, piston rings, and i believe a reconditioned crank. The strocker kit with provide you with 50 more HP, and 130ft/lb TQ, thats what FFWDConnection.com claims. Send the block out to be honed and decked by a machine shop,and o-ring it. Get some revised lifters from SBR for 150$, that will rid you of the infamous "tiking", fasten it all down with ARP headware, and main bolts. with that set-up for a bottom end you will have no problems with 400hp to the ground. If your still uneasy about your engine with 182k miles then hit the junk yards and find one with less miles and in good shape, and then built that ones bottom end, but Im confident with your 182k mile motor, considering mine has 193k miles, great compression across the cylinders, and its being used to get built. oh yeah if you didnt before get the head decked to ensure a perfect fitment, and get what ever HG you like to put the frosting on the cake(bottom-endLOL


Thanks for the info.:thumb: I will do all the labor myself so that will save alot of labor costs and my frined owns a machine shop, so he is going to do my block work.
 
Please update your profile. What do you have for supporting mods? What turbo? 14b? Need more information. Also if you have a 14b with stock smic, you will notgo any faster due to the 14b is set to maximum efficencey by mitsu.If you just try to up the boost pressure this will merely cause the turbo to blow hot air, then in turn lead to knock, and possible grenading of your engine. So I hope you have other mods done so far.
 
Just a FYI when you are picking a block to re-build most engine builders will opt for the high mileage block. If the block has gone 180,000+ miles without a defect causing a failure the likelihood of if ever happening is slim. Or at least slimmer than with a newer casting. Which ever way you go the first step is to take the block to a good engine builder who can inspect it and determine it's worthiness for a rebuild. Beyond that is up to you. If you're on a budget a set of 8.3 Wiseco's on 1G rods on an untouched stock crank is a good set-up for a lot of HP, has low enough compression that its simpler to tune, and won't cost you an arm and a leg.
 
Im gonna go with waiting for it to break until I rebuild it. What else do I need to do to get extra power besides tuning the boost up? I checked the fuel pump for that 10 volt wire but I couldnt get one that even had 1 volt, there was one with .56 volts. That was kinda wierd. I should be able to run a 12+ volt signal to that harness at the pump and put a toggle switch between it???
 
Go with Comp cam 200s, Hard IC piping, hard intake pipe with filter, port the intake mani, port the O2, and exhaust mani, and get a turbo back exhaust. If you dont have to go through emissions then get a cat delete, that will improve throttle response, and give to some more HP. Dont up the boost if you still have stock td05h(14b) and stock sidemount IC, you will lose power, and have knock with a much better chance of rebuilding the engine much sooner.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top