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Is it possible to run 20 psi on stock turbo?

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rolltidero

Proven Member
319
24
Jan 9, 2014
Madison, Alabama
I don't know what all is on my car. I know it has a cat back and that's about it. I have a weird capped thing coming off my air filter where my BOV is supposed to be with a chrome thing with a 1-1.5" opening that kinda looks like the capped end could connect to but it's capped off. The stock waste gate solenoid has no hoses attached to it. I possible have a manual boost controller but I'm not sure there's this weird chrome tipped hose thing that says turbo at the end with a bolt in it and is zip tied tied to the fans. I also have a K&N cone filter if that matters. Bottom line my autometer sport-comp gauge came with the car it is a 30/30 gauge and it says I'm running 18-20 psi. I've been reading and I've read the factory garret turbo only does 14-16 psi. So do I have a lot of aftermarket parts or a different turbo or what?
 
A picture would definetly help as I'm extremely confused to what your talking about BOV wise. It sounds like you have an aftermarket boost controller, which in terms could mean you have a slightly larger than stock turbo. We won't know until you post pictures on here..
 
A picture would definetly help as I'm extremely confused to what your talking about BOV wise. It sounds like you have an aftermarket boost controller, which in terms could mean you have a slightly larger than stock turbo. We won't know until you post pictures on here..

X2 to the above posts! And bov wise maybe your talking about recirculating it back into the intake?
 
Sounds like the recirc on the snorkle is capped off, the BOV is just vented to the atmosphere, and the wastegate is set to never open. So the turbine is set to run how ever fast it will go.
:O

Don't be driving this car hitting boost until you get a handle of what all this car has done and some way to control the boost.

It can live with the snorkel capped off and atmosphere dump. Not great to do but it shouldn't kill the car. Uncontrolled boost levels. What about fuel for the excess CFM's? Now that is not good. That could lead to the next thread of I have a melted down ___, exploded ___, and an empty billfold.
 
Here are the pics as requested, I'm sorry if they're small. I do have an autometer a/f gauge and it says I'm running rich. if 12 o'clock was dead in the middle of stoichio, I'm at about 3-5 o'clock. I'm sorry for not posting pictures originally that was stupid of me.
 

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I don't know what turbo that is. But the silver thing in your first picture is a blow off valve, where you see the hole and lip around it, needs to be plumbed back into the intake.

The 2nd silver thing is your mbc. I would turn the top of it clockwise to lower the boost. I would set it around 14psi until I figured out what my car is.
 
Oh gah, turn it down soon. I had a boost controller fail on me on a t25 and the spring locked, my wastegate got stuck open and that little baby turbo hit 23 psi and blew a seal LOL. Be careful until you figure out what it is and how to use it.
 
I don't know what turbo that is. But the silver thing in your first picture is a blow off valve, where you see the hole and lip around it, needs to be plumbed back into the intake.

The 2nd silver thing is your mbc. I would turn the top of it clockwise to lower the boost. I would set it around 14psi until I figured out what my car is.

So this isn't the stock garret turbo?
 
Run a line from the nipple on the compressor cover to the wastegate and don't worry about the boost controller. It's a t25 and if you run more then 15 psi for very long you're gonna cook it faster then a hungry man dinner.

So this isn't the stock garret turbo?

Most likely it is because most of the car looks stock. Could be a t28 but unlikely.

When you can, get yourself a quality BOV and recirculate it back into the intake. If you want to go any further with the car just make sure you fallow the upgrade path
 
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I don't know what turbo that is. But the silver thing in your first picture is a blow off valve, where you see the hole and lip around it, needs to be plumbed back into the intake.

The 2nd silver thing is your mbc. I would turn the top of it clockwise to lower the boost. I would set it around 14psi until I figured out what my car is.

On every MBC I've messed with turning clockwise would tighten spring pressure (more boost). Granted that appears to be a TurboXS MBC the likes of which I have not messed with before.

OP you mentioned "needle" when talking about your A/F gauge. Most Widebands use an LED sweep and a digital number display. This leads me to believe that you have a narrowband gauge which honestly makes a better paperweight than providing good data on you actual AFR. Post a pic if you can.

As for the turbo it does indeed look like the factory T25. At least the compressor cover does. I've never seen a 14b or 16g with the coolant line mount casted in the compressor housing. Justin may be able to chime in and prove otherwise.
 
On every MBC I've messed with turning clockwise would tighten spring pressure (more boost). Granted that appears to be a TurboXS MBC the likes of which I have not messed with before.

OP you mentioned "needle" when talking about your A/F gauge. Most Widebands use an LED sweep and a digital number display. This leads me to believe that you have a narrowband gauge which honestly makes a better paperweight than providing good data on you actual AFR. Post a pic if you can.

As for the turbo it does indeed look like the factory T25. At least the compressor cover does. I've never seen a 14b or 16g with the coolant line mount casted in the compressor housing. Justin may be able to chime in and prove otherwise.

Your correct, that's my bad. Should be turned counter clockwise. I've honestly never seen a t25, so I'm not sure what one looks like.
 
On every MBC I've messed with turning clockwise would tighten spring pressure (more boost). Granted that appears to be a TurboXS MBC the likes of which I have not messed with before.

OP you mentioned "needle" when talking about your A/F gauge. Most Widebands use an LED sweep and a digital number display. This leads me to believe that you have a narrowband gauge which honestly makes a better paperweight than providing good data on you actual AFR. Post a pic if you can.

As for the turbo it does indeed look like the factory T25. At least the compressor cover does. I've never seen a 14b or 16g with the coolant line mount casted in the compressor housing. Justin may be able to chime in and prove otherwise.

It is an LED gauge. It's an autometer sport-comp gauge. I just used the clock analogy to provide an average position for where it is.
 
It is an LED gauge. It's an autometer sport-comp gauge. I just used the clock analogy to provide an average position for where it is.

If it looks like the pic below it's next to useless.
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If it looks like this you're good to go:
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Get rid of it and get a proper wideband kit when possible. In the mean time do as suggested and remove that MBC and run the line from the compressor housing straight to the nipple on the wastegate actuator.
 
I don't know what turbo that is. But the silver thing in your first picture is a blow off valve, where you see the hole and lip around it, needs to be plumbed back into the intake.

The 2nd silver thing is your mbc. I would turn the top of it clockwise to lower the boost. I would set it around 14psi until I figured out what my car is.

Would I be able to recirculate that with this BOV just uncap tube and get a new tube to attach from snorkel to BOV?
 
You can probably even turn the tube that's there around and use it. But yes you need the bov recirculated to run the most efficient and to eliminate any unneeded problems. You can also buy some radiator hose or some guys use this spa hose from Home Depot and make there own recirc tubes!
 
You can probably even turn the tube that's there around and use it. But yes you need the bov recirculated to run the most efficient and to eliminate any unneeded problems. You can also buy some radiator hose or some guys use this spa hose from Home Depot and make there own recirc tubes!

+1 I used some sub pump hose from Ace Its like $5 for 6 feet and it worked great cheap and easy. Also remember to get some hose clamps.
Here is a link to how I did it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...er/442537-hd-spa-hose-recirculation-tube.html
 
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