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"Intake pipe" questions for wisemen

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codym

10+ Year Contributor
636
8
Dec 28, 2011
Amarillo, Texas
Okay you engine builders and people who have a knowledge of airflow, bear with me on this..

Im looking at a "weapon R" intake for my 1g after I rebuild the motor, cause its staying N/a for now..

Ive been looking at reviews, prices, bleh bleh bleh.. My view is probably the same as the majority of members here which is "a pipe is a pipe"

The only thing that Ive gathered from looking up this "secret" pipe is that, its a big pipe, with a smaller pipe inside of it, to uhh... "increase velocity" :hmm: ( see picture)

Now, if all it is , is a small pipe inside a big pipe, what the fu** does this ACTUALLY do?

I have a member offering me it for 100 bucks, but if its only a pipe inside a pipe, I'll go make the thing myself for 10 bucks, because I have better crap to spend my tax money on. :thumb:
 

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Look up the "no slip condition" and then decide if a pipe inside a pipe is going to help improve airflow.

The velocity of air in contact with a non-moving boundary must be zero. And those round bolts holding that pipe in the center hurt airflow more than you'd ever believe.


tl;dr - It's a bad idea.
 
It's designed like aem v2 the smaller pipe is for low throttle help to get good responce, and the outside being the bigger part of the tube helps with higher revs, higher rpm air flow. Does that make sence to you?
 
Look up the "no slip condition" and then decide if a pipe inside a pipe is going to help improve airflow.
.

From what I just read, I would think that the inner pipe is the only one that would carry any amount of velocity.

100 dollars saved.

It's designed like aem v2 the smaller pipe is for low throttle help to get good responce, and the outside being the bigger part of the tube helps with higher revs, higher rpm air flow. Does that make sence to you?

No, if the velocity of the air in contact with a non moving boundary is zero( you cant argue with physics) than your actually RESTRICTING airflow by sticking that smaller tube in there.

Again, 100 dollars saved. A pipe is a pipe. :thumb:
 
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From what I just read, I would think that the inner pipe is the only one that would carry any amount of velocity.

100 dollars saved.



No, if the velocity of the air in contact with a non moving boundary is zero( you cant argue with physics) than your actually RESTRICTING airflow by sticking that smaller tube in there.

Again, 100 dollars saved. A pipe is a pipe. :thumb:

Idk it's just a intake pipe not rocket science.:ohdamn:
 
You don't want a high velocity in intake pipes. Post throttle body, especially in the runners, it's a different story. The velocity comes from there being a pressure differential between the ends of the pipe, and a pressure drop means less dense air. Less air = less power.

That design is a gimmick, just like AEM's.

There is some real science between intake tuning, with resonators and such, but it's not going to give you a power increase "at every engine speed."
 
I agree pipe is pipe. I put a dejon tool intake on my gst a while back and it increased spool up and throttle. It was too much for the set up I had on my gst at the time so I had to remove it and put it back on my drag car.
 
You don't want a high velocity in intake pipes. Post throttle body, especially in the runners, it's a different story. The velocity comes from there being a pressure differential between the ends of the pipe, and a pressure drop means less dense air. Less air = less power.

That design is a gimmick, just like AEM's.

There is some real science between intake tuning, with resonators and such, but it's not going to give you a power increase "at every engine speed."

So my money would be better spent buying a SMIM(little more than $100) , which would benefit me now being N/A , as well as in the soon-to-come forced induction days :rocks:

Thanks guys! :dsm: :thumb:
 
I was a small block Chevy guy for years. An intake can make a significant difference, but as one of the replies stated, that difference can really only be seen with modifications after the throttle body (or in the old days carburetors). A larger runner short track intake in most cases will move the engines peak efficiency to the higher rpm range and can result in higher overall horsepower but only if other modifications (cams, larger valves, and free flowing exhaust) are in place as well. An high rpm intake on an otherwise stock engine would most likely lose power. I am sure there are a lot of people telling you to save your money until you go turbo, but in the end, its all about cubic inches and your motor is small. In order to make power with a small motor you have to have more power strokes per minute (increase rpm) or force more cubic inches into a smaller motor (supercharge). Either way its expensive, but you will never make more power N/A than supercharging. I would save your money on this product.
 
I was a small block Chevy guy for years. An intake can make a significant difference, but as one of the replies stated, that difference can really only be seen with modifications after the throttle body (or in the old days carburetors). A larger runner short track intake in most cases will move the engines peak efficiency to the higher rpm range and can result in higher overall horsepower but only if other modifications (cams, larger valves, and free flowing exhaust) are in place as well. An high rpm intake on an otherwise stock engine would most likely lose power. I am sure there are a lot of people telling you to save your money until you go turbo, but in the end, its all about cubic inches and your motor is small. In order to make power with a small motor you have to have more power strokes per minute (increase rpm) or force more cubic inches into a smaller motor (supercharge). Either way its expensive, but you will never make more power N/A than supercharging. I would save your money on this product.


Thanks for the info man. :thumb:
 
You don't want a high velocity in intake pipes.

There is a member on here that might have a different view on that statement. Obviously there's a desirable limit for everything but I believe he tested a stock style intake vs a famous 4" brand on a small frame turbo. Results were in favor of the stock style pipe.

"I switched from a 4" intake pipe back to a 3" and picked up ~16 h.p. and almost 2 lb/min on my 16g."

The message might be better portrayed using language such as: Use an intake pipe that most closely matches your turbo inlet diameter to limit turbulence. Smooth transitions are what we're looking for.
 
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