Intake pipe getting extremly hot!!!!

[madman]

Maybe this is a stupid question but should the intake pipe before the turbo get soo hot that you can't touch it? Even the tip of the air filter that had a little metal ring, is too hot to touch.

I have an aluminum 3" pipe and filter with a blow-thru setup so no stock mas.

The temperature yesterday was around 100* and after about 20-30 minutes of light highway/street driving, I could barely keep my hand on the pipe. Even the UICP was extemley hot. Not as bad but pretty hot.

My egt never got over 1400* on the highway.

I have a FMIC and the pipe off the cold side of the IC was a lot cooler but all the pipes in the engine compartment were very very hot.

I've driven in hot weather but never noticed them getting this bad.

I don't have the heatshield on the exhaust manifold but it's been this way for a while. This couldn't make that much difference could it?

This much heat can't be good, maybe I'm just paronoid.

p.s. I just replaced my regular journal bearing CHRA with a BB CHRA. Let's say that the CHRA isn't getting sufficient coolant from the water lines, due to a blockage or something, could it cause the turbo to get extra hot and transfer this heat to the intake pipe? Again maybe I'm being paronoid.

 

[nightspeed87]

well without the heat shield under hood temps will significantly raise...
Id recommend getting http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=4616

I just bought one myself and still waiting for it to come in...
Plus it will add a nice touch of style to your engine bay...

p.s. ( You could always get intake wrap for your icps, and upgrading your cooling fans
and putting the filter itself as far a way from the exhaust manifold would be a good idea if you havent done so already. )

 

[NewTurboTuner]

You should definitely put your heat shield back on if you have it. If you don't have it get a new one. Anything you can do to decrease engine bay temps is good.

I don't know about your pipes. If its 100' + a hot hot engine, that is stuffed into a engine bay ...that's got to make alot of heat! ...I bet your just a little paranoid. If it was me I'd wait for a cool night to check it again, before I get worried. BUT get that heat sheil put on. That will for sure help with under hood temps

 

[kenamond]

There was a thread a few days ago talking about the dangers of running without a heat shield. Melted fans, blistered hood paint, etc. were some of the problems. The radiation off of the ex. mani. and turbine housing is HUGE, so any part in your bay that can "see" either of these parts will get hot (nothing to do with ventilation - it's massive infrared radiation (light)). So numerous components in your engine bay are going to get hot which will heat the air in the bay which will heat things that can't "see" the mani or turbine housing.

All of these hot intake parts will hurt performance, increase knock probability, and maybe you'll damage something that wasn't designed for those bay temps.

EDIT: By the way, my intake pipe gets hot even with the heat shields in place, but it's not hot enough to burn me. I know that after pulls if I sit there, my intake temps go up to 115* with 75* outside temps, but those intake temps drop to 95* if I drive around and get the air flowing (still at 75* ambient temp).

 

[madman]

So when I got home from work today, made one 3rd gear pull on the way, I opened up the hood and the coolant in the overflow bottle was boiling.

You could see and hear it boiling!!!!

Something has to be going on here.

 

[nightspeed87]

yea sounds like your over heating

 

[madman]

But the temperature gauge never goes above half way.

 

[toojung2die]

But the temperature gauge never goes above half way.

My stock temperature gauge hits halfway by 170 degrees and doesn't start to move above the halfway point until it gets above 220 degrees. Don't trust it, it's not much better than an idiot light. A logger or aftermarket temp gauge will show you accurate coolant temps.

 

[madman]

I have been watching my logger. It doesn't get much more than 210*.

My stock gauge works very well though. I had a couple weeks were I had my new slim fan wired bacwards and my gauge defenitely let me know that the car was getting hot.

 

[andymoraitis]

Pushing coolant through the overflow is more than likely a trashed head gasket. I've seen plenty of cases where the temps don't go above half and it still pushes.

Let us know what you find,

Andy

 

[madman]

Pushing coolant through the overflow is more than likely a trashed head gasket. I've seen plenty of cases where the temps don't go above half and it still pushes.

Let us know what you find,

Andy

If the head gasket it blown would oil get into the coolant?

I've noticed over the last couple days that the coolant looks pretty dark. I'll keep the cap off and after idling a couple minutes the coolant will turn to it's normal pretty green color and then go back to a dark color.

Today I opened the cap after the resorvoir had boiled yesterday, and there was no visible coolant (low) and the resevoir was empty too. The only thing I could see from under the cap was an oil resedue in the pipes.

Edit- Let me add that the head gasket is only three months old. I just installed a BB 50 trim, switching from a regular 50 trim so I had to hook up the coolant lines to it. Also it's been quite a while since I've flushed the coolant.

I think I will just flush the coolant and see if that helps first and if any of the oil/dirt color comes back.

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

I was boiling coolant out the overflow without high temps. Realized the Rad cap wasn't holding pressure. If its not holding pressure, the coolant boils at a lower temp than it should, pushing it out into overflow even though your engine isn't overheating. I replaced my Rad cap...but that didn't solve it. FINALLY realized that corrosion on the lip of the Rad cap housing was preventing the cap from making a good seal. Picked up another housing from RRE for $15, problem solved.

You should check for this before looking around for a blown head gasket. Oh, and if you do a search there's TONS of info on this subject already.

 

[madman]

I was boiling coolant out the overflow without high temps. Realized the Rad cap wasn't holding pressure. If its not holding pressure, the coolant boils at a lower temp than it should, pushing it out into overflow even though your engine isn't overheating. I replaced my Rad cap...but that didn't solve it. FINALLY realized that corrosion on the lip of the Rad cap housing was preventing the cap from making a good seal. Picked up another housing from RRE for $15, problem solved.

You should check for this before looking around for a blown head gasket. Oh, and if you do a search there's TONS of info on this subject already.

Thanks for the help.

I did a search to begin with but it was for intake pipes getting hot (there wasn't much on that). The discussion has led to other areas from wich I have searched a couple threads about oil in the coolant. This has just led me to my last post were I'm going to flush the coolant, eliminating suspects such as dirt and corrosion instead of oil. I will look into getting a housing as well.

Thanks again for all the ideas.

 

[NewTurboTuner]

I don't know where you live but boiling water doesn't mean the motor is getting super hot. @ 2000ft water boils at 208 degrees. Motors see that temp all the time in hot weather.

Just a little info though..... if the water is boiling that does greatly reduce the amount of heat transfer. Because the water needs to run over the metal to transfer and take away heat.... when the water starts to boil... air bubbles get in between the water and the metal... and then the heat cannot be easily transferred from the metal to the water. Then of course the car will heat up even more.

Although ...you said you don't see much more than 210 ...so I don't think that's a problem. BUT I'd also go ahead and check to make sure you cap is sealing.


I still kinda think the Heat shield probably has the most to do with it all.
We've all seen pics of glowing hot metal exhaust manifolds.... you intake is attached only inches away from that. Without a shield its surely going to heat up much more than it would with a heat shield. If you haven't seen pictures of a glowing hot intake... now you will

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216068&highlight=blue+ballz

 

[NewTurboTuner]

Dont "look" into getting a heat shield.

"Get" a heat shield.



Why not have it on?

 

[1gcrazy]

Subscribing for later...

 

[burntheblobs]

Wow. If you stuck a peice of metal in a 200 degree oven for 10 minutes, would it be hot? That is basically what you are asking. The ONLY peices of my intake that are just warm to the touch after the car has just been ran are some of my post intercooler piping. And I thought I was paranoid about my car. Hang in there man. =P

 

[madman]

Wow. If you stuck a peice of metal in a 200 degree oven for 10 minutes, would it be hot? That is basically what you are asking. The ONLY peices of my intake that are just warm to the touch after the car has just been ran are some of my post intercooler piping. And I thought I was paranoid about my car. Hang in there man. =P

Do you mean pre intercooler? Between the turbo and IC?

All of my pipes are extremly hot. All but the firs foot post IC.

 

[andymoraitis]

If the head gasket it blown would oil get into the coolant?

Not always. I've seen blown gasklets that pushed coolant, but there was no evidence of oil and coolant mixing, white smoke or any of the tradition signs. Even the compression was strong.

It depends on how severely it's blown and also where the gasket has failed.

 

[v2ner]

Not always. I've seen blown gasklets that pushed coolant, but there was no evidence of oil and coolant mixing, white smoke or any of the tradition signs. Even the compression was strong.

It depends on how severely it's blown and also where the gasket has failed.

I 2nd this but it's the coolant goin into the oil not the other way around.

 

[madman]

Ok, here is an update.

I took the car the car to Mitsu, just had a baby so don't have time myself, to do a coolant flush. It was really overdue. The coolant was very dark.

Also they did a pressure test and yes the cap needed replaced. 99% sure that is why my coolant was boiling over into the resevoir.

The resevoir has a hole in it too, just icing on the cake I guess.

So minus fixing the resevoir everything should be super right? ......wrong.

After a little driving on the highway I notice the temp gauge starting to climb. I turned the heater on and it went down a little and started up again. So I exited off ASAP and hit the first gas station just before the hit the very top. Opened up the hood and noticed the top hose on the radiator split right at the clamp, on the thermasat housing side. Notice the red electrical tape. It looked like they overtightened the clamp and sliced the hose. After it cooled down I was able to cut of the end of the hose and stretch it just enought to fit. I put the tape on it to keep the clamp from cutting through again. I had to put a entire bottle of 50/50 antifreez in to fill it back up.

It was old hose but in good shape. You think Mitsu will buy me a new hose?......doubt it.

So here are some pics.

Do you think the white color, that wont go away now, is from the coolant burning on it? The slice in the hose was facing the manifold and venting in that direction. Or is the discoloration from excessive heat?

I had parked my car a 6pm. I got back home and checked it again at 1030pm and the manifold, upper intercooler pipes and intake pipe are still so hot that I can't keep my hand on them more than a couple seconds.

 

[olmytsi]

The same thing happened to my buddy's sfp manifold and he had to take it off and get it coated again. Just get a heatshield and you won't see it