Installing AEM EMS

How To Install AEM EMS
Plug & Play AEM EMS for a 1995-1999 Eclipse
Written by Mike Blageo​

Parts Needed:
AEM EMS- 30-1310
MAP Sensor: (Choose one)
AEM 3.5bar- 30-2130-50
AEM 5bar- 30-2130-75
GM 3bar- 12223861
Pigtail- 15305891
Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor: (Choose one)
AEM IAT- 30-2010
GM IAT- 25036751
Pigtail- 12102620
3/8NPT Aluminum Bung- EAR-996703ERL
Boost Control Solenoid (BCS):
GM BCS- 1997152
Pigtail- 12102747
AEM BCS- 30-2400
****Pigtails on list above go with the GM sensors not the AEM sensors. If you order the GM sensors you order the pigtail listed below it.****
I used the GM parts with pigtails. I purchased them from GMPartsdirect.com for about $180 to my door.

AEM can be run with the factory MAF with no need for the GM sensors. But if you want to tune using speed density you will need the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor. The BCS is optional, it allows you to tune with boost and control the boost with your EMS.
****DON’T be ghetto, solder ALL connections****

MAP Sensor​

Wiring:
On the factory Intake manifold there is a Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor. The GM MAP sensor will take its place. To Wire the MAP sensor take the stock connector from the MDP sensor and cut it off. There are the wires a green/yellow, green/black, and a black. On the pigtail you receive there might be colors or they will all be the same color. In my case they were all white. On the GM MAP sensor there are letter next to the connector, A (5V), B (Signal), and C (Ground). Connect the green/yellow wire to the wire coming form the C terminal. Connect the Green/black wire to the wire coming from the B terminal. And connect the Black wire to the wire coming from the A terminal. Below is a wiring diagram.

Install:
I have a 6bolt swap with no emissions system so I did not have to block off the hole where the MDP sensor was (be creative and cover it up and seal it off). I hooked up the nipple on the GM MAP sensor to a nipple on my magnus intake manifold. If you do not have a magnus then just tap a hole and install a nipple. When mounting the GM MAP sensor it is best facing the nipple downward, this is to allow any oil or other fluids that may get in there to not build up in the diaphram. It will also allow the AEM to get and accurate reading of the Baro pressure. I mounted the sensor on the cruise control bracket. Below are pictures of the MAP sensor installed.

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IAT Senor:​

Wiring:
The IAT sensor will be wired off of the factory MAF connector. Take the factory MAF connector and cut it off from the harness. On the factor harness there are seven wires in that connector. Pin#5 (black wire) and Pin#6(red/blue wire) are the only two wires you will use. The pigtail I received had two white wires. Hook the black wire to one of them and the red/blue wire to the other. The IAT is a resistor so the polarity of the wires does not matter. Below is a wiring diagram.

Install:
The GM IAT is a 3/8NPT fitting and you will need to purchase an aluminum bung for it. I got mine on Summitracing.com, any bung will work. Part number above is for an Earl’s Performance Plumbing bung. Drill a hole in your upper Intercooler pipe after the BOV and before the throttle body elbow. Do not place on TB elbow like I originally did. The TB elbow is too close to the intake manifold and hot temps. By putting it in the UICP you will be separated by a silicone coupler and will not "heat soak" the sensor. Place thread tape around the threads on the IAT sensor (If the IAT sensor did not come with sealant on it) and install it into the bung.

(No image I had to move mine)

BCS:​

Wiring:
Our cars come with a factor BCS located under where the intake pipe is. To install the GM BCS remove the factory BCS and cut the connector. The two wires you cut should be red and red/yellow. The Pigtail I receive had two white wires on it. Hook up one wire from the pigtail to the red wire and the other to the red/yellow wire. The polarity of the BCS does not matter. See wiring diagram below.

Install:
The GM BCS has three nipples on it, two open and one with a filter on it. There are two way to hook this solenoid up.
First one is called “Block”, where the solenoid blocks the pressure signal from getting to the wastegate (WG). The pressure signal goes through the boost control solenoid, then to the WG. The operation of this setup is pretty straightforward: When the solenoid is open, you get minimum boost. When it's closed, you get max boost. To hook it up in this way you hook up the boost source to the metal nipple on the solenoid and the other open nipple on the solenoid to the WG. Below is a diagram of what that looks like.

The other method is called "Bleed". In this setup the boost signal goes straight to the wastegate. The solenoid is T'd off of the boost signal line, and controls boost by bleeding off pressure. Hook the boost source to the nipple with the filter on it and leave the other nipple unhooked (I’m not 100% sure that is correct but have a good idea).When the solenoid is open, all the pressure is bled off and max boost is made. When the solenoid is closed, no pressure is bled off and minimum boost is made. Below is a diagram of what that looks like.

I hooked mine up with the “Block” method. To properly Install the BCS and tune with it you need to hook up both nipples on the WG. The top nipple should go to the BCS and the other nipple should go to normal boost pressure. I mounted it at the bottom of the radiator attached to one to the holes that the stock fans mounted to. You can also mount it where the stock one was located but in my car it didn’t look as clean. Here is a picture of it installed.

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AEM EMS:​

Mounting:
To mount the AEM EMS I started off by removing the whole center console and the radio for easier access. After all of that was out I removed the bolts holding the ECU in place and removed it. Then I removed the ECU from the mounting plate. Reinstalled the mounting plate without the ECU on there and bolted it black in place. Then I placed the EMS where the factory ECU was and marked where it sat. Then removed the EMS and mounted it to the factory ECU mounting plate with the supplied Velcro. I installed the computer cable to the EMS and fed it through to the passenger side of the car. Then I installed the EMS and noticed the support that goes up and down had to be taken out and ground down so you could plug in the EMS (see red circle in picture). Next I ground down the support, reinstalled it, and finished bolting up the support for the EMS. After you finish plugging in the EMS, reinstall the radio and center console.

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For more information contact me at [email protected] or visit www.aempower.com/forum/index.php
All of my information was found on the AEM web site as well as other DSM websites. All I have done it combined it all for an easy to follow how-to (hopefully).