Installing a 6 bolt in a 7 bolt car

[TurboSpider]

I am looking at a 6 bolt complete engine that is for sale in Maryland to replace my 7 bolt. The car it would be going into is a 97 eclipse spyder gst. What modifications would have to be done to make this work. Does the clutch have to be swapped out or anything like that? After searching the forum, I see something about the crank sensor not being the same or something like that. Is there a lot of major mods to be done to get it to work. The engine is partially built with "weisco pistons stock rods. has bc springs and retainers and arp head studs motor is ready to be dropped into a car" 0 miles since it was built.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Along with your current research on this site, feel free to check these resources out as well to make the decision on how you want to do it:

• http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf

• http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm

• http://www.roadraceengineering.com/6boltswap.htm

There are multiple ways to complete this swap. Continue to explore the methods others on this site have used.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Here is some info if you think you might want to go that route:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-do-a-6-bolt-swap-and-what-you-need.152329/

 

[TurboSpider]

thanks guys for the hel[

 

[TurboSpider]

It sounds like a lot of work. I am not sure about the drilling and tapping the block for the oil pump or rewiring the ecm. these things sound a little scary. The rest doesn't sound to bad.

 

[lasershark]

You don't need to tap the block for an oil pump, just use an oem 6 bolt oil pump. I would highly recommend getting ecmlink if you are doing a 6bolt swap.
The swap itself is actually surprisingly simple, as long as you research and prepare for the task...

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

It sounds like a lot of work. I am not sure about the drilling and tapping the block for the oil pump or rewiring the ecm. these things sound a little scary. The rest doesn't sound to bad.

That is just one of the ways people have completed the swap. As I said, there there are multiple ways people have done this. What is the reason for swapping for the 6-bolt?

 

[TurboSpider]

I am swapping because my engine spun a bearing. A pretty good deal came up on facebook for a built engine with 0 miles on it. It was built by a guy that builds these engines often. Most people are recommending I do a 6 bolt swap.

Is it easier to use the 6 bolt head, or put my 7 bolt head on the 6 bolt block? I am a little confused when it comes to that part.

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

I just did one and it's not that difficult you just have to research what goes where.

Biggest for me were:
-Shave the driver side motor mount so it clears the water pump
-Make sure you have a the 7 bolt starter shim plate not the 6 bolt. I got mixed up put the wrong one on. I had to drop the trans and remove clutch and flywheel.
-You can hardwire the cam sensor or buy the adapter.

If you use the 6 bolt head and intake you will have check engine lights on.

 

[TurboSpider]

did you have to modify you 7 bolt head. I read where it says you have to enlarge holes to get it to fit?

 

[TurboSpider]

Also I thought I remember reading somewhere where it says there is a AWD flywheel and a FWD flywheel. How do you tell the difference between the two?

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

If you use the 7 bolt head you have to punch a hole through the front right side.

I have 2 7 bolt heads and they were both done before I got them.

On my built motor Iam using a 7 bolt head. On my spyder I just dropped in an entire 6 bolt.

the flywheel question I have no idea how to tell them apart. The fwd will not work with the awd.

 

[TurboSpider]

ok so the spyder has the CEL on because you used the 6 bolt head. Do you know what causes the light to come on?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

FWD flywheel is larger than AWD (or visa versa, cant remember as all I have had apart is AWD) but that is the difference. 7 bolt head needs the head bolt holes reamed out for the larger head studs/bolts.

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

I'm fairly new to these cars so I'm learning as I go. The 6 bolt intake doesn't have a few sensors the 7 bolt intake does. My mind is blank at the moment.

I got the motor in and running and now I'm figuring out DSMlink.

Someone will chime in that knows a lot more than I do I'm sure.

 

[TurboSpider]

yea I see there is a sensor on the intake that either has to be drill and welded to bolt up to the 1g intake or plumbed into the brake booster line.

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

The most important thing is to take your time. Read and reread. I got all excited and cost myself a lot of extra work.

 

[lasershark]

Normally you will get a CEL for random misfire because the 1g cas doesnt communicate 100% the same as the 2g crank and cam sensor.
1g uses the cas for both the crank and cam signal 2g has seperate sensors.
Ecmlink=no cel...
You could do the Potentiometer method but not really recommended as the preferred method.

 

[TurboSpider]

thanks for the help so far. Care to let me know what you did that you made a mistake on Maybe to keep me from doing the same thing

 

[TurboSpider]

Normally you will get a CEL for random misfire because the 1g cas doesnt communicate 100% the same as the 2g crank and cam sensor.
1g uses the cas for both the crank and cam signal 2g has seperate sensors.
Ecmlink=no cel...
You could do the Potentiometer method but not really recommended as the preferred method.

so if you use the 2g head, you are able to use the 2g CAS and just plug it in like normal? I guess that would eliminate having to rewire a 1g CAS?

With ECM link I think I read in those other threads that you can make the computer ignore the minor misfires or something like that. I read about using the potentiometer to turn it until the misfires no longer happen.

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

Haha that goddamn starter plate!!

Then I also put on the wrong alternator and power steering pump. Like I said I'm a moron and got excited.

The motor was a complete motor. I just got it changed the oil and replaced all the timing components and water pump.

 

[TurboSpider]

thanks for that info, yeah from what I read you have to use the 2g starter plate and ps pump and alt and belts. I am looking at a complete motor as well. This is the engine. It was built by a person that seems to build lots of DSM motors, he may be a member on here. Has Wisco pistons on stock rods, ARP head studs bc springs and retainers. Was rebuilt and never installed. Was completely rebuilt, new timing belt, water pump, new gaskets and seals. I was going to use my 2g head, but this one has some upgraded parts, springs and retainers so not sure what to do. Engine comes complete except without the turbo or manifold and timing belt tensioner pulley

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[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

You could always read the controversy over 1g heads vs 2g heads. In the end its basically opinions

As far as who built it if you find them on the forums then I'd say you can trust them. I found out the hard way the DSM world is full of poachers.

When I took my original motor to the machine shop he took one look at the bearings and asked "who the hell put this motor together?"

If you buy it you will want to invest in DSMlink and a wide band.

 

[TurboSpider]

I know, the first time I ever got scammed was from someone on the DSM groups on Facebook, and I bought a lot of stuff in the past. The guy that built the engine is named Brandon Cockran if that rings a bell. Lives in Maryland. He had another built engine for sale that he just sold. He seems to be helpful and is answering all my questions about it. Guess I will start looking for the parts I need. DSM link, Wide band ect. I am debating getting some type of after market turbo for it. Not sure what to get. Brandon suggested a 50trim turbo and 275 cams

 

[PlanZero]

Hey man there's a complete built 6 bolt for sale in classifieds for $1600 in Blairsville PA.
The fact you have a 97 will make the 1g CAS work much easier with a simple adaptor harness.