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injectors wont fire

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halffast1g

10+ Year Contributor
178
0
Jul 11, 2008
phoenix, Arizona
Trying to do the first startup of my 1991 eagle talon tsi awd. We have spark, confirmed on all cylinders.

I have brand new spark plugs and brand new fic 1150 cc injectors. I am using dsmlink.

We have confirmed fuel pressure at the rail, but everytime we turn the car over, the rpms move just a very small amount, and doesn't hit on any cylinder. We pull the plugs, the are still brand new looking, no fuel at all on all cylinder

The car won't inject on any cylinder. We tried going into dsmlink and marking and unmarking each injector (on or off) and didn't make any difference.

Please help :banghead:
 
You can test your existing resistor pack with an ohmmeter and know if you need to swap it on not.

There are four resistors connected to a common power feed. Each should measure around 5.6 ohms between the common and it's output.

On a 90 it's possible to mix up the injector resistor pack and the ISC connector but I don't think the ISC connector will reach the injector resistor pack on the later cars.

As far as logging even the default log is better than nothing. Since your interested in the injectors firing I'd make sure to log the TPS, RPMs, and injector pulse width an minimum.
 
ok. I will try to get a log tonight after I get off work. thanks!

resistor pack was not grounded properly, I now have confirmed fuel on all cylinders, ( i pulled the rail and watched the injectors fire), confirmed spark on all cylinders. car still doesnt start.

cold compression is 150,135,140,130

I am running 1150 cc injectors and walbro 255, dsm link 2.5, and gm maf.

Are they any special setting that I need to address in link that may cause a non start issue
 
resistor pack was not grounded properly, I now have confirmed fuel on all cylinders, (i pulled the rail and watched the injectors fire), confirmed spark on all cylinders. car still doesnt start.


There is no ground to the resistor pack.

Your compression is outside the service spec but it should still run and perhaps it will even out after the rings seat.

What are you setting the injector global and deadtime to?
Are you running the GM MAF directly or via a MAFT?
What's your base fuel pressure set to, and which AFPR?

What does the engine coolant temp sensor read?
 
There is no ground to the resistor pack.

Your compression is outside the service spec but it should still run and perhaps it will even out after the rings seat.

What are you setting the injector global and deadtime to?
Are you running the GM MAF directly or via a MAFT?
What's your base fuel pressure set to, and which AFPR?

What does the engine coolant temp sensor read?

I am running 1150 cc injector, I told the guys at dsmlink before I ordered it and they adjusted the global and deadtime accordingly, -60% on global and 330 micro seconds for dead time.

I am running the gm maf with translator. everything is zero'ed out on the translator, and right now I have it as a "blow through" system. I have no idea how to set the gm maf with or without translator.

My engine coolant temp sensor was taken out because I am running my own gauge. My car is throwing only 1 check engine light, which is the engine coolant temp sensor failure.

I am running just the stock regulator right now, If I get it to run correctly, I will be swapping over my aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
 
you need the two wire temp sensor. Thats the sensor the car uses to aid in determining fueling. The single wire sensor can be taken out, that one goes to the cluster.
 
ok. I don't have that one connected, I have several colored wires in that vicinity. I have a green with yellow stripe, a yellow with green stripe, a black wire, and 2 black wires inside a black sheath.
 
My engine coolant temp sensor was taken out because I am running my own gauge. My car is throwing only 1 check engine light, which is the engine coolant temp sensor failure.

So is the ECU currently thinking that it's -37F? That tends to cause the ECU to drown the engine. It's a famous no start problem on DSMs.
 
So is the ECU currently thinking that it's -37F? That tends to cause the ECU to drown the engine. It's a famous no start problem on DSMs.

I have a couple friends that have been saying they think im flooding out the cylinder, but I thought it wasn't getting enough fuel. The plugs arent even wet, they are and still look brand new. I will get that plugged in, wish me luck

hahah yeah, the ecu thinks its almost -40 out.
 
I see now that you have a thread on the DSMLink forum. That's good and hopefully after fixing your ECT sensor the car will start.

Dave mentioned another thing that I was trying to remember the name of and if it was also in the 1G Link, cranking fuel-cut. If you have a TPS problem and the ECU reads WOT during cranking it will shut off the fuel. I don't think your having this issue but I include it in case somebody else searches this thread.

A simple check of ThrotPos will identify if this is a problem.
 
I think I have found the wires needed for the coolant temp sensor. They were hidden back in the harness ( I had to cut some of it away to get to the wires) and I will get my solder on to extend the wires to the coolant temp sensor. Tomorrow night after work I'm going to give it another shot to start it, I think I will have better luck. Log will also be included.
 
Last edited:
it starts and runs, idles at 950. I have a log. It leaked 2 quarts of oil in 30 seconds, I have a little work to do. thanks for all the help
 

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well, that log doesnt show much. Fix your leak, log it while driving around, just cruising.
 
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