Infineon Wednesday Night Drags

[tstkl]

so last night I didn't feel like looking in my engine bay to see how bad the damage was, so this morning before work I popped the hood and took a peak. check this out, I tightened down my j pipe enough so that it didn't blow the gasket, it did something else.

 

[pneumo]

Yes, burning your own eproms is cheap. Check out Moates.net and look up their Flash-N-Burn. I think it's about $85, plus a few bucks for a chip, then you can re-burn the chip as many times as you want. Just don't bend the pins! If you want I can do a custom chip to get you started, then learn as you go.

What Paul said about the fuel cutoff point is right, it's the first part of the anti-stall code. It's not just for light flywheels, it's useful for anything that hurts idle, like cams, big injectors and air leaks. I don't think it would help the bigAzz leak you have now, though. Damm you need some motor mounts quick! Your motor must be doing a hula dance!

Danny, not all Fidanza's need longer bolts. Mine didn't. Just measure the flywheel thickness where the bolts go through. If it's thicker you can get slightly longer bolts from Mitsu. I can look it up, some cars used longer bolts, so it's a cheap OEM part.

 

[tstkl]

I got my maft on my uicp so it runs fine, just really slowly. I think the front motor mount might be shot, I can't see it too well, but I shoved the camera down there and took a pic, what do you guys think?

also, what do you think of my dejon no leak 1g valve thingy, its in the third pic, the blue thing you can bearly see. I think it made my bov louder, although I can't see why, unless its ### I have the pressure source coming from the jpipe rather than the uicp so it opens the bov super fast when the valve sends the pressurized air in. I REALLY need to get a seperate line for my mbc other than my bov line.

 

[T9S1i]

Yes! I thought i wrote it in a post but maybe not. The time when you let off the throttle to when your injectors fire again is called coasting fuel cut. You can mess with this in dsmlink, but i havent found out yet how to by searching. Im going to look deeper into that.
Brian, in some of those pix it looks like you can almost see all the way through your motor mount. YOu should shine a flashlight on one side of it when its dark and see what kind of shadow it makes, or if it makes one at all...ITs kind of hard to tell from a picture and not being able to touch/see it in person.
Ive also done the "over tighten" on the coupler until the end pops out! I hate that, its like you have to find the sweet spot with these clamps to where they are hella tight, but not about to start pushing whatever you are tightening out of the coupler.

Dave, i'll have you look into those bolts for me. I really want those suckers on there! If i get the flywheel, i dont want it comin off for anything.
BTW, i read something from someone somewhere (super vague) that said that the bolts from the flywheel to crank arent the shorter ones, its the ones from the pressure plate to the flywheel that need to be longer. Just some food for thought.

 

[tstkl]

I made the bolts on my j pipe hella tight, so rather than blowing the compressor outlet gasket, my engine held on to the j pipe and ripped it out of the licp.

I don't really care if that motor mount is shot, as I already put in the order for new ones and once I get those Ill be putting them in, even if my stock motor mounts are brand new, so it doesn't really matter anyways.

 

[turbo2g111]

And don't forget Brian, with that nice new JDM cold air duct, you'll be running 10's in not time

 

[pneumo]

Dave, i'll have you look into those bolts for me. I really want those suckers on there! If i get the flywheel, i dont want it comin off for anything.
BTW, i read something from someone somewhere (super vague) that said that the bolts from the flywheel to crank arent the shorter ones, its the ones from the pressure plate to the flywheel that need to be longer. Just some food for thought.

Oh, those bolts. OK check out this link. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133162&highlight=fidanza+bolts scroll to the bottom and read the post by "DRW" He's got the answer. Nails the answer GOOD! That guy's smart, knows TONS of stuff about DSM's

Paul, are you out there? What does No Ne Zapisal mean?

 

[Newlogics]

Oh, those bolts. OK check out this link. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133162&highlight=fidanza+bolts scroll to the bottom and read the post by "DRW" He's got the answer. Nails the answer GOOD! That guy's smart, knows TONS of stuff about DSM's

Paul, are you out there? What does No Ne Zapisal mean?

I'm here. Well, I just got here. I was camping out by Beriessa.

"No Ne Zapisal" means "but didn't right it down". Where did you get that ?


As for longer bolts, yes, they are very nice thing to add, because alum. is much softer then steel (doh) and you (Danny) want more bolt to FW contact. Otherwise it's super-easy to strip.

 

[tstkl]

And don't forget Brian, with that nice new JDM cold air duct, you'll be running 10's in not time

hes refering to a home depot project I have in the works, my guess is my lazy ass won't get around to finishing it any time soon, but at least now I have the majority of the parts for it. it should be pretty sick once its done, all I'll say is I had to take my fogs off.

 

[pneumo]

Hi Paul, I got that quote from a song title, it's catchy, check this out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...017492-1111346?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=5174
Listen to the last sample titled 'Muskat(Slishal, No Ne Zapisal)' Catchy tune, eh? I got that phrase stuck in my head 'No Ne Zapisal' so I was curious to know what it meant. I went to Babelfish.com and they couln't figure it out.

Danny, the bolts that I (DRW) was talking about in the DSMTalk thread are the bolts that attach the pressure plate to the flywheel. You can get them at a hardware store. OTOH the longer flywheel-to-crank bolts are the ones that can be found OEM. I'll check for the part # right now.

Brian, so you're going to do it? I hope it comes out like you described, that would be sweet!

 

[pneumo]

OK I give up for now, I haven't found out where to get longer flywheel to crank bolts. So far I found OEM Mitsu bolts that are 1mm longer than stock, but that's not much of a difference.

 

[Newlogics]

OK I give up for now, I haven't found out where to get longer flywheel to crank bolts. So far I found OEM Mitsu bolts that are 1mm longer than stock, but that's not much of a difference.

They're regular 12mm bolts that are used throughout the car, so if anyone's in need, I got boxfull of 12s.

And Dave, that's Gogol Bordello. My ex was their fan. They were performing in San Francisco not so long ago.

 

[T9S1i]

F it Fit F it!!!! Here goes my summer!

If im going to build the motor, im going to do it right the first time.!!!!

SO i ordered the flywheel and the FP bolt kit too. I did a bunch of searching, and couldnt find an EXACT answer, so i just went with good old FP! I think i'll just have to bottom tap the holes in my crank. 4mm thicker FW, plus 1.5mm spacer =5.5 mmlonger bolts i'll need. The FP bolts are 4.5mm longer so i guess that will due. ITs better than being 5.5 mm shorter on stock bolts that are only like 20mm long.

Man, my credit card company will love me soon!


Coasting Fuel cut...
DSMlink can disable the idleswitch so that you never get fuel cut b/c the ecu will see your throttle always open a few percent. This helps by always keeping the motor revving slightly, even when you let off.
OR.... you can up the idleswitch a few hundred rpm's in dsmlink so taht the fuel will kick back in a few rpm's sooner and you have that much less decelleration to make your car stall when you are coasting to a stop.
(bare with me if i f'd up a little of that info, i read it LATE last night!)
But you guys get it... I can do one of two things that help the motor want to keep spinning and not just let the rpm's drop and die.

In other news. To fund this motor, im selling all my other performance parts. Im going to try to run as fast as i can with my stock turbo "Dave Style". Hopefully i'll tune my way to a faster et than dave, and then i can tell him to go

*EDIT* just kidding.... im still bitter at dave for running so fast on that 14b!!!

We'll see what the s16g can put down while I pay off the motor, then the fatty turbo comes!

 

[Newlogics]

...

Coasting Fuel cut...
DSMlink can disable the idleswitch so that you never get fuel cut b/c the ecu will see your throttle always open a few percent. This helps by always keeping the motor revving slightly, even when you let off.
OR.... you can up the idleswitch a few hundred rpm's in dsmlink so taht the fuel will kick back in a few rpm's sooner and you have that much less decelleration to make your car stall when you are coasting to a stop.
(bare with me if i f'd up a little of that info, i read it LATE last night!)
But you guys get it... I can do one of two things that help the motor want to keep spinning and not just let the rpm's drop and die. ..

Disabling idle switch does help with stalling, but it also makes you idle at 3K rpm when car is cold. I ran like that for a while. I't annoying.

Engaging idle switch earlier is not that simple, because it also acts as a thorttle plate stop, so screwing it in more will also crack your throttle open more.

 

[T9S1i]

OK, maybe I didnt absorb that knowlege as well as i thought i had.
Here it is, raw and uncut from the DSMLink forums.....

From thomas, the creator...
With V2, you can also try bumping up the coasting fuel cut RPM limit a bit. It's on the RPMs dialog. Try adding 200-400 RPM in that field and see if it improves any. That's the point at which fuel is re-enabled when the engine is coasting down.

Thomas Dorris

From the users manual...
Coast FC adj is used to tweak the lower limit on coasting fuel cut. Enter a value in here when you select an idle point greater than 950 RPM and observe any odd behavior while coasting down or letting revs drop. As a general rule of thumb, you should enter the difference between your selected idle point and 950. So if you select an idle of 1100 RPM, you might try 150 into the Coast FC adj box.


So thats what i was talking about. There are no forums that says that this "fixes problems stalling with lightened flywheels", but it seems like playing with these two things would help right? OR is there some other feature of dsmlink that will help the problems? There is another thread that kind of touches on the topic, but not really. It deals more with someone disabling their idle switch, then they just pretty much tell him to do what the users manual says right there..../\/\


*EDIT* Im torn again guys... Weisco 8.3 or 9.0 CR??????? How much harder is it to tune with 9.0? I'll just use the 2g timing curve b/c of the higher compression right?
Anyone tried both 8.3 and 9.0 and liked one for a particular reason? I know right now paul runs 9.0 and dave runs 8.3..... how do you guys like it? Pros/cons? Ive been searching, but its all the same... it comes down to what the hell i want for my application. 16g now, 50 trimish sized turbo later

 

[pneumo]

While I have 8.3 pistons in the car, I also have a head from a 1.6 motor which has smaller combustion chambers, a block that's been resurfaced twice, and a .051"thick HG. Compression test results are around 170 to 178 psi, so that's about 8.5 comp.

My last motor had 9.0 comp pistons with a 2.0 head and a .057" thick HG and comp test came out to around 185psi. I tried to lower compression a little by using a thick HG, but that also lessened the knock suppression ability of the quench zones. I didn't like that motor as much, probably because it had other problems and it blew, but that's a different story.

So I tend to prefer 8.3 to 8.5 pistons and a not-too-thick HG. Quench zones are good, make the most of it.

 

[T9S1i]

Im just going to go 8.3 like originally planned. Mitsu MLS head gasket. My head has been surfaced twice already i think... ill have to measure it to see if i can surface it again and keep it in spec.
Then i'll learn how to tune!

 

[tstkl]

so dave, you don't like the mls mitsu head gasket? what do you mean by quench zone?

 

[pneumo]

I've never tried a Mitsu MLS HG, so I don't know. I've read of others having good results with it.

The quench zone is where the piston and head get really close to each other when the piston is at TDC. It's where the outer edge of the piston almost meets the front and back of the combustion chamber. It reduces knock because when the piston gets to TDC the air/fuel charge gets squished out of the quench zone with some velocity, plus it keeps the air/fuel charge centralized so it's all closer to the spark plug, which speeds up combustion a little.

Knock will usually start at the outer edges of the combustion chamber since that's the last area to burn. That's why a quench zone is built into the piston + head at the outer edges. Unfortunately a stock head also has a nasty sharp ridge on both the intake and exhaust side where the quench pad meets the combustion chamber. It's just a side effect from being mass produced. The ridge causes a hot spot in an area where knock can start. This ridge can be easily smoothed down with a flat file, which is what I did to the head on my car. I'll see if I can get a good pic to show this.

 

[pneumo]

OK here's a good pic. You can see the ridge just above and below the valves. Smooth that down to a small radiused edge. It's a good idea to do this before the head is reassembled so you can clean up all the little metal shavings.

 

[tstkl]

so these motor mounts look all good and simple, except for the one labled (fr).... It looks like the front motor mount just goes in as a filler, and it doesn't even come with a new sleeve. So now if that front motor mount is shot, Im guessing that I have to replace it with an oem one, and put these inserts in it. It looks pretty easy though. The metal bushing is the only thing that has me worried. Can I just use my vice to get it out, or what? They feel so cool. Their like gushy, but really firm....

 

[MyBlack94GST]

Testo,

Yes, the front one is just an insert. When we did motor mounts for my car, we used a die grinder or a sawzall, forget which, to cut out the rubber, then cut a slit in the metal bushing thing which relieved the stress and let us pop it out. The mounts go in fine with a vise. One took a little persuasion to get into the car.

I think you can burn them out as well, but that's pretty dumb.

 

[tstkl]

I read that you take a torch and heat up the outer metal ring, and since its directly in contact with, and its outer radius is larger than the bearing, the whole thing just falls out. I think I'll just try that. It sounds a lot cleaner. Its all physics, why don't people see that? Now I just need to find a hot enough source.... exhaust manifold?

 

[tstkl]

ok, so I installed three of the four inserts last night. Right now my battery and battery tray are out and I'm about to go install the last one, just ran out of time last night. But heres a few of the highlights of last night.

*played weakest link with my 20 inch breaker bar. This is what I had. 20 inch breaker bar->1/2 inch drive to 3/8 inch drive adapter->3/8 inch drive to 1/2 inch drive adapter->17mm socket. Guess which one broke. Btw, I had to do that to make it a little longer, since I don't have any half inch drive extenders that short. It just needed to be a little shorter, so I just put on the adapters to get that extra 2 inches or so.

*Well I couldn't find my torch, so heres how I got out the metal sleeves. I took a screwdriver, hammered it in between the sleeve and the mount until there was a little ditch big enough to put my chisel in. Then I hammered that bad boy all the way through, and bent up the sleeve until I could fit my CROW BAR in there, and bent it til it was,....well,... dead. Then I pushed it out with my hand, it was that easy. Obviously the chisel is ruined, but it worked, and I still have enough left in the chisel for the last mount. The front motor mount was fine, it was the drivers side mount that was completely in pieces. the tranny mount was also perfect.

 

[pneumo]

My car is nearly ready, so I'll be going out to the track this Wednesday. Anyone else? There's just a few little things I need to take care of. There's still about 50 pounds left to come out. Then I'm going to install a new viscous coupling I got from Jon at TRE. Hopefully it'll keep the wheelspin down. It feels like it'll do a low 12 right now, but if I manage to pull off an immaculate launch I may have a shot at getting into the top ten best times for a DSM with a 14B. I hope this works!