Infineon Wednesday Night Drags

[pneumo]

Fast with class? What's that? Ha, actually the interior looks exactly the same as last time, except there's a SAFC where the radio/tape player used to be. I made a sheet aluminum panel to mount the SAFC, then painted the panel black so it looks classy.

I just realized I can save another pound by replacing my full face helmet with an open face helmet! Yess!!!!! jk

Forged rods should be re-sized to match the crank and piston pin, so add that to the cost of forged rods. Most forged rods have slightly tight clearances so you can enlarge them to suit your needs.

Removing the auto seatbelts was easy, there's just a lot of stuff to remove, like the panels just behind the door, trim along the door frame, and the whole center console. All the panels can go back in. There's also a little computer box behind the drivers side panel that controls that annoying beeping sound you hear whenever you leave the key in/ door open. I took it out and NO MORE DAMM IDIOTIC BEEPING!! It's so nice. I'm using a manual belt I got from JCWhitney. It only cost $34.99. part # GM176097 for gray, #GM176094 for black. They have other colors if you want some bling. There are plenty of mounting points and spare bolts to mount the new belts. It weighs 2.2 pounds. It does not have a tensioner, so I've been adjusting it everytime I get in the car- kinda annoying. I REALLY like how I can crank down the adjuster to lock myself into the seat. Cornering is awesome this way. It feels great to take a hard corner without having to brace myself with my arms, legs, and clenched butt cheeks.

 

[Rick99gsx]

First time posting on this thread but just wanted to know if anyone is going out this wed (14 JUN) out to the track. I'll be taking my car to hopefully break 12s

 

[Newlogics]

First time posting on this thread but just wanted to know if anyone is going out this wed (14 JUN) out to the track. I'll be taking my car to hopefully break 12s

I'd love to go out there this wednesday, but they won't let me in without a battery cut-off switch and a vent. and I have too much work in the shop to find time to put those things in by next wednesday...

What was your best time up till now?

 

[tstkl]

not going til I get my short shifter and poly motor mounts in at the least. I need to stop from blowing this compressor outlet every run.... paul you think you can help me with this one? I've been calling you a lot lately, but you haven't picked up for the past 2-3 weeks

how much would it cost to weld a flex pipe into my licp to stop it from bending my jpipe flange/blowing the gasket, ### the flange itself it bent.

 

[Newlogics]

not going til I get my short shifter and poly motor mounts in at the least. I need to stop from blowing this compressor outlet every run.... paul you think you can help me with this one? I've been calling you a lot lately, but you haven't picked up for the past 2-3 weeks

how much would it cost to weld a flex pipe into my licp to stop it from bending my jpipe flange/blowing the gasket, ### the flange itself it bent.

well, let's see... I was fishing the week before last. Didn't hear any messages from you last week. Always leave a message, otherwise I don't even know you called. Oh, and my cell is a good alternative to shop phone.

As for the LICP, I'm not sure which flex section you'd like added. Obviously, exhaust flex secion won't work very well, since it's ribbed inside and will create tons of turbulance. The only true solution is to sharpen that bend, which will require recutting and rewelding it.

 

[tstkl]

what about the poly motor mounts, I know it will help to stop the engine from moving, but do you think it will be enough? Right now the back of the licp is touching the alternator, one side is touching the bumper support beam, the other side is touching the radiator support beam, and the top is touching the pop up headlight assembly. I think If I get those camaro headlights and convert to that, that will remove one thing, then these poly motor mounts will help, and do some more grinding I guess. The fmic is also in there pretty tight, even though I only put on two mounts for that hoping it wouldn't hold it on too tight. I think I'll have to bring it in to you and show you what it looks like down there and see if we can just free up some space down there so it can move like its supposed to. I put some copper rtv on there last night, and after that cures and I get these poly motor mounts, Ill see if I can blow it again. if I still can, we will address this problem in more detail. Either way, Im itching to get back to the track once I get all this stuff done, New rims, tires, short shifter, poly motor mounts, and yesterday I was bored, so I removed my interior from the rear and cleaned the whole car out, so now that I know how easy it is to drop like 40 lbs from the back, (rear seats, spair tire, all that junk back there) Maybe Ill do it before the next time I go up and see if that helps. Dave style

 

[T9S1i]

still bs'n with getting this motor done! I havent even pulled the block that im going to build yet. Why are cherry pickers so hard to find? How much do they cost to buy?

What pistons should i go with? weisco 8.3's or ross 8.5's.
I think im just going to bite the bullit while the motor is out and go ahead and ruin my credit. Im gettin skat rods, and im going to freshen up the head while ive got the motor at the machine shop. Im only trying to do this once, so i better not cheap myself out while im in there.
F* It! anyone know where to get a good stroker crank for cheap?!

 

[tstkl]

I personally will be going with ross 8.5's, remember, if you go with a mitsu 4 layer metal head gasket, that will lower the actual compression ratio to lower than the rated compression ratio a little.

 

[EuroEclipse]

First time posting on this thread but just wanted to know if anyone is going out this wed (14 JUN) out to the track. I'll be taking my car to hopefully break 12s

hey Ricky, i'll be out there as soon as i get this oil leak situation figured out and get a good tune.

 

[pneumo]

"fcuk it?" someone just said today's secret phrase!
CSMI5 $265 at importperformanceparts.net follow mitsubishi>crankshafts>topline oem>van I'm guessing it's a remanufactured crank, so be careful what you wish for.

I'm tempted to go this Wed, but the car isn't quite ready. The springs are coming in tomorow and I'd like to get the back end realigned before going to the track, plus the exhaust isn't done either.

Paul, have you ever heard J.U.F.? I'm listening to it now, it's some wacky Balkan/Ukraine gypsy punk music. Naturally I thought of you.

Brian, how about a silicone 90 degree connector? It has plenty of flex and it can substitute for the metal 90 bend in front of the alternator.

Infineon's schedule shows that they will be closed June 21st, so it'll be two more weeks before we can go again. I'm pretty sure I'll be ready by the 28th if I don't break something while practicing my launch. Should we make the 28th our next meet?

 

[tstkl]

yes, 28th it is. Im there. This time Im not getting eliminated so early. Ill be 11 days away from being 18, so Ill say Im in highschool, if they card me, Ill beg them to give me 11 days of grace, if they say no, one of you guys is my new daddy, . Either way my actual birthday is on the 19th, but my licence is wrong by 10 days, so I get an extra 10 days of being 18, and 21. I can buy myself kick ass presents before my birthday.

dave, thanks for the coupler idea, I never would have thought of that.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17845&cat=727&page=1

paul, please tell me you can beat 41 dollars.

either way, that will make the install of my new turbo go a little smoother, I was looking at that dead colt thread and was thinking 707 whp on 31 psi with a crappy tune, thats basically what I want out of this little beast. Say a good tune adds 20-30 hp, and the drivetrain loss from awd vs fwd cancels that out, thats a clean 700 whp and that turbo is far from done at that psi. I have been looking at the fp 3575, and was thinking that with a 100-150 shot would get me into the 700's, but being able to get 700 out of 31 psi and no nos would be sick. Anyone know of a good cast manifold for that turbo? Ill probably just go tubular, but I remember seeing picks of shep's 9 second set up using a cast t3 style manifold, by turbonetics if I remeber correctly, so obviously tubulars don't flow that much more than casts. Also, see the sbr turbo compro where they put a tubular manifold on the evoIII

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208481

18 hp and 24 ft lbs. Probably more along the lines of double that in the case of a turbo flowing 2+ times as much air as the evoIII. To me it seems like they aren't all their CRACKED up to be. also remeber, that was also with a nice little port job of the turbine housing, so all that gain wasn't from just the tubular manifold, although we cannot assume it was 50/50 or any other ratio for that matter.


I fear driving my car around with a gt42r with the stock head, but since money doesn't grow on trees, I think thats going to be the order of mods. Whatever turbo I end up going with, it will come before the head gets a full race ready port job, oversized high flow valves, stiff springs, and all that good stuff. I've said it before and Ill say it again, this car will NEVER be finished.


the 28th it is, the 28th it is.


edit: btw, if your asking why Im at home typing up a long ass post rather than being out since its summer and all, Apparently copper rtv takes 24 hous to cure, would have been good to read that before I did some modifications... O well I got this installed today:
http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/BOV1.htm


double edit: FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKK I have pole vaulting monday, wednesday, and friday, from june 26th to july 21st, so I can't race til thats done. SHHHHIIIIIIITTTTTTTT

 

[Newlogics]

yes, 28th it is. Im there. This time Im not getting eliminated so early. Ill be 11 days away from being 18, so Ill say Im in highschool, if they card me, Ill beg them to give me 11 days of grace, if they say no, one of you guys is my new daddy, . Either way my actual birthday is on the 19th, but my licence is wrong by 10 days, so I get an extra 10 days of being 18, and 21. I can buy myself kick ass presents before my birthday.

dave, thanks for the coupler idea, I never would have thought of that.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17845&cat=727&page=1

paul, please tell me you can beat 41 dollars.

I can't but ebay can. Although at this moment I found everything by 2.5" ones. 2.5" to 3" 90 is only $22.50 though.

either way, that will make the install of my new turbo go a little smoother, I was looking at that dead colt thread and was thinking 707 whp on 31 psi with a crappy tune, thats basically what I want out of this little beast. Say a good tune adds 20-30 hp, and the drivetrain loss from awd vs fwd cancels that out, thats a clean 700 whp and that turbo is far from done at that psi. I have been looking at the fp 3575, and was thinking that with a 100-150 shot would get me into the 700's, but being able to get 700 out of 31 psi and no nos would be sick...

You should stop sniffing that brake cleaner, that sh1t's bad for you

18 hp and 24 ft lbs. Probably more along the lines of double that in the case of a turbo flowing 2+ times as much air as the evoIII. To me it seems like they aren't all their CRACKED up to be. also remeber, that was also with a nice little port job of the turbine housing, so all that gain wasn't from just the tubular manifold, although we cannot assume it was 50/50 or any other ratio for that matter.

tubular shmubular. Cast is your best bet.

I fear driving my car around with a gt42r with the stock head, but since money doesn't grow on trees, I think thats going to be the order of mods. Whatever turbo I end up going with, it will come before the head gets a full race ready port job, oversized high flow valves, stiff springs, and all that good stuff. I've said it before and Ill say it again, this car will NEVER be finished.

(just put that there 'cause I like the smiley, otherwise I don't have anything constructive to comment on that)

the 28th it is, the 28th it is.


edit: btw, if your asking why Im at home typing up a long ass post rather than being out since its summer and all, Apparently copper rtv takes 24 hous to cure, would have been good to read that before I did some modifications... O well I got this installed today:
http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/BOV1.htm


double edit: FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKK I have pole vaulting monday, wednesday, and friday, from june 26th to july 21st, so I can't race til thats done. SHHHHIIIIIIITTTTTTTT

I'll be down for 28th as well.
(unless FATF3 makes me sell my car and get a drifter! Mad tyte yo!)

 

[T9S1i]

hmmm, should i scratch the skat rods and just get the stroker crank instead? The pistons are the same price and are 8.8:1 compression. Thats the same as a 2g piston right? if so, my timing curve would be easy to tune. Damn! i knew i should have bought the stroker crank when ffwdconnection had them on sale for $250 shipped!

Anyone know which rods you need to notch the block with? (i know i know, everyone says you dont have to), but from that block i saw at pauls shop, you have to with some rods, is it h-beam or i-beam? Paul do you remember?


Last, how many miles are stock rod stroker blocks getting these days? HP/TQ levels they can handle?? If i get EVERYTHING balanced, it should last a long time right? Im really not trying to build a "race" only motor that only has 10k on its life. This thing will see a lot of "spirited" street driving as well. I would just go with a 2.0, but hey.... i want to see with this extra .3 is all about!

Edit.... last, last, i have to smog in nov!!! Im not planning on doing it "100% legal" but if i have to smog it, would the extra .3 cause any problems with me putting down good enough numbers to pass smog?

 

[GreddyGst]

I've been craving to go to the track but my co worker went on vacation and I'm working overtime on wednesday 14th and 21st (I'm usually off wed & thursdays) oh well maybe I should just wait for CMI

 

[Newlogics]

hmmm, should i scratch the skat rods and just get the stroker crank instead? The pistons are the same price and are 8.8:1 compression. Thats the same as a 2g piston right? if so, my timing curve would be easy to tune. Damn! i knew i should have bought the stroker crank when ffwdconnection had them on sale for $250 shipped!

Anyone know which rods you need to notch the block with? (i know i know, everyone says you dont have to), but from that block i saw at pauls shop, you have to with some rods, is it h-beam or i-beam? Paul do you remember?


Last, how many miles are stock rod stroker blocks getting these days? HP/TQ levels they can handle?? If i get EVERYTHING balanced, it should last a long time right? Im really not trying to build a "race" only motor that only has 10k on its life. This thing will see a lot of "spirited" street driving as well. I would just go with a 2.0, but hey.... i want to see with this extra .3 is all about!

Edit.... last, last, i have to smog in nov!!! Im not planning on doing it "100% legal" but if i have to smog it, would the extra .3 cause any problems with me putting down good enough numbers to pass smog?

It's A-beam rods (like Manley or Crower) that require notching in the block.

Stay to 2.0, I don't think 2.3 is worth it in your case.

Well tuned 2.3 will pass smog. Visual is a whole different thing though (2.3 has nothing to do with it)

 

[tstkl]

yea, I need to find a place that will take the 20 dollar bill I give them and leave the hood closed

 

[T9S1i]

$25 for the rest of us there high schooler!

i remember when i was in high school (all of 3 years ago), I used to spend $20 the best i ever could on a wednesday, $15 to race at infineon, and $5 for the bridge back.

Im going 2.0 guys. A lot of parts are ordered, and on the way. Should be close to coming togethere now. (well, going to the machine shop).
Should i get a fidanza flywheel or not?, im going to have to do a couple hours of pros/cons searching on the flywheel. Anyone have suggestions on it?

 

[tstkl]

$25 for the rest of us there high schooler!

i remember when i was in high school (all of 3 years ago), I used to spend $20 the best i ever could on a wednesday, $15 to race at infineon, and $5 for the bridge back.

Im going 2.0 guys. A lot of parts are ordered, and on the way. Should be close to coming togethere now. (well, going to the machine shop).
Should i get a fidanza flywheel or not?, im going to have to do a couple hours of pros/cons searching on the flywheel. Anyone have suggestions on it?

Im talking about smogging my car, I want to find a smog shop that will take my 20 and not open the hood. But yea, having a highschool id does save me that extra 5 dollars. hehehe good choice with the 2.0, HIGH REVS, HERE WE COME!!!!

I have the act lightweight flywheel and love it, I would have gone with findaza, but stupid choices had me spending more for a heavier flywheel. My car stalls like none other, but apparently theres something in dsmlink that can fix that easy. Damn you Danny and your dsmlink... Trying to hold out for version 3 is getting old fast, I bought those rims ### I knew version 3 wouldn't come out for a while, but I think if its not out by the time I have 600 dollars again, Im just going to buy version 2 and have to bite the bullet once version 3 comes out and pay the 50+shipping or whatever its gonna be.

 

[MyBlack94GST]

If you can't afford DSMLink, burn your own chips. It's sweet... you can do ANYTHING!

 

[T9S1i]

If you can't afford DSMLink, burn your own chips. It's sweet... you can do ANYTHING!

Ya! You guys saw Dave!

Brian, just get DSMlink next, you are right, its whatever it cost now, plus $50 for the upgrade whenever it comes out. Dont you already have an afc/logger? If you have an e-prom you should just talk to Dave about getting a chip made. Obviously he knows what hes doin!

Haha, i thought you were talking about $20 at the track and no inspections, i know paul would like that! With his gatorade bottle of methanol... i mean "water".


Hmmmmmm.....fidanza flywheel or stock flywheel... Im going to have to do some searching on dsmlink now to see if there is this so called "fix" you speak of. Isnt it something to do with the coasting fuel cut or something? Ehhhh.... I heard something about this before, but im gonna have to look.


Man i love that smiley!!! I just need to find the right place to put it!

 

[MyBlack94GST]

Thanks to Dave, I shall be Bay Area DSM EPROM chip pimp #2. The world is not safe.

 

[pneumo]

Get a Fidanza!
Get a Fidanza!
Get a Fidanza!


But seriously, it all depends on your funds. It's nice to have, it lets the motor rev faster. If you can't afford it, you can't afford it. That's the trick to modding a DSM, figure out what parts will make you fastest for less money, effort, and/or time.

Brian, if you're having a problem with stalling with just an ACT flywheel you should make sure your BISS is adjusted properly, troubleshoot your ISC, and make sure your fuel trims at idle are dialed in. A light flywheel shouldn't make that much of a difference in stalling. My anti-stall lightweight flywheel code only works if you have a good ISC, so check it out.

The easiest thing you can do with DSMLink to help prevent stalling is to raise the idle a little. Raising the idle also smooths out the motor so it doesn't vibrate so much, which is helpful if somebody happens to have a full set of prothane motor mounts.

Mahesh, have you seen this page yet? users.wpi.edu/~ktarry/dsmtech/phantomknock.html More Fun with EPROMs!

 

[T9S1i]

I would get a fidanza, and probably will, but then i will just have a fatter credit card bill...
Whats the deal with the longer bolts? Do i have to get the ones from FP for it to work or can i find them cheaper? If i can, then i'll get it.
Im broke, but im trying to get this motor built best i can.

Ut oh! Is mahesh comin out with the eprom craziness too?
Seriously though when's your car gonna be ready?
I hope im back on the streets by mid July the latest.

 

[tstkl]

lets see if I can reply to everything you guys said in order, from memory.

1: danny, I wish I had a safc, I just have a logger, a maft, and my GOOD OL' LC-1. Unfortunatly though, my 1g exhaust manifold has a crack in it, so dave,

2: having my idle trims dialed in is somewhat tough, since my o2 volts/afr are off due to unmetered air being sucked in at idle through the crack. Its right above the collector, so all 4 runners have a chance to suck in air inbetween combustions. yay...... the isc is brand new though, 300 bucks via satan himself. My old ecu took it out, so it was replaced at the same time....The car idles at 750 when warm, perfectly, every time. And I called fftec on wednesday to ask if my motor mounts would be comming in, and they had no idea that I wanted them. They said they thought I was asking for an estimate, so I ordered them wednesday, I have work tomorrow, and Im up at 2 am trying to figure out this ####ING COMPUTER problem again, so I doubt I can make it out to union city before work tomorrow. I blew my compressor outlet gasket tonight again. My friend with a bmw m3 just got his full coil over suspension with camber plates and wanted to go, so I had to put him in his place. BTW, apparently, if you launch your car too hard, you break traction AND compressor outlet gaskets.

3: Paul told me what causes the stalling is actually the fact that the car turns off the injectors when you let off the throttle (aka cruise) and has a set amount of time before they will be activated again, (aka once it passes x rpms it starts to try and keep it alive via the injectors again) and that dsmlink can make this responce time faster since the lighter flywheel not only revs faster, but it also makes for a faster decellerating engine.

4: eprom, eh, I'd rather have the adjustability of dsmlink, since I don't know whats going to work well and what isn't. I can't just go burning eprom chips, I don't have that kinda money.

 

[MyBlack94GST]

Ah HA Testo! Burning EPROMS is teh cheapness... if you're willing to spend some time learning.

I'm finally bringing my stupid AWD to Santa Clara this weekend so I can work on it everyday. It will be done soon... but if not before Stinson I'll just take the black car and stock around.

Anyone have a 1990 center diff/viscous for sale?

Dave, sweet. I forsee writing code in the near future, now that I'm starting to understand the way the Motorola processor works.