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Yes, I had some good runs. Best was a 12.498 @109.61mph. Not bad for a stock 14b, stock injectors, stock sidemount IC and IC piping, hacked 1G MAF, and stock turbo inlet.

I wonder if I can hit an 11 if I upgrade to a 2G MAF and 3" intake and take out another 100 pounds? Should I go for it?
 
YES!

pneumo said:
Yes, I had some good runs. Best was a 12.498 @109.61mph. Not bad for a stock 14b, stock injectors, stock sidemount IC and IC piping, hacked 1G MAF, and stock turbo inlet.

I wonder if I can hit an 11 if I upgrade to a 2G MAF and 3" intake and take out another 100 pounds? Should I go for it?
 
Damn..lookslike I'm the last one to post... heh..

Well, I started out with 12.6 @ 110, and got to 12.37 @ 112.8, which is when I was eliminated by 350z auto, running .03 secods closer to his dial-in (mine was at 12.3). Running pump gas with a little meth. And to defend myself from Dave, I gotta add that I'm running a catalytic coverter and full weight. (And Dave is still too close for comfort :mad: )

Still some room for improvement. My lauchnes were apparently 'cool' to look at, but not helping to get best ET. I spun 'em all through 1st gear. First two times because I wanted to, last time because sun was in my face, and I didn't see rpm gauge at all. (don't use stutter box yet). So yeah... Not a bad day, but def. need to improve. I barely got through inspection, by the way. This time they decided to pop my hood, trunk, and complained about batt. cut-off switch, ventilation and methanol (which I said was water injection).
 
pneumo said:
Yes, I had some good runs. Best was a 12.498 @109.61mph. Not bad for a stock 14b, stock injectors, stock sidemount IC and IC piping, hacked 1G MAF, and stock turbo inlet.

I wonder if I can hit an 11 if I upgrade to a 2G MAF and 3" intake and take out another 100 pounds? Should I go for it?


the hater in me says no, but the dsmr in me says yes. You already broke mid 12's so you've got me beat. What else do i have to lose?

Lets see what that sucker can do Dave! YOu havent ceased to amaze me this far, so why not run 11's with an almost stock dsm!

One thing though...the hater in me comes out.....Dave WAS running 116unleaded!!!:p

Now i got that out, go hit 11's you crazy old tuner!.... And if you do, what was wrong with your rs49t setup?! ;)
 
no one mentioned woody ran a 12.9 with his modded evo9. I dunno his whole list, but it had a stock hacked airbox, hard upper intercooler pipe, xs intercooler, 18 psi, and I dunno what else. His first run was a 16.1, but after the help of a wise dsm who brought all his tools,......(enter tstkl) I tightened his lower clamps on his upper intercooler pipe since his arms were too big to get down there. Apparently he let off at the end a lot, because that 12.9 was at 94 mph or something, he says after he flew by the car he was racing he put it in fifth and coasted so he wouldn't break out. I dunno it would probably be more accurate if he posted himself, but you would have to call him up or something.

anyways, I really want to figure out why my top end was so bad, why am I getting such bad knock and stuff. Last time I came I ran .2 seconds slower and I missed 3rd twice. The car felt a lot slower, and has lately. Maybe I should pull as much cash as I can together and get dsmlink and just upgrade once version 3 comes out. I probably won't come out til I get a solid tune in.
 
T9S1i said:
Now i got that out, go hit 11's you crazy old tuner!.... And if you do, what was wrong with your rs49t setup?! ;)

It was a PTE SCM5031E setup... ;)
 
MyBlack94GST said:
It was a PTE SCM5031E setup... ;)

He told me it was a rs49.... I asked him in a pm b/c i wanted to buy it. But you bought it right? so you should know. I was under the impression that it was an agp turbo. We even talked about it yesterday... WTF :confused:

Either way, it was a 50trim.
And besides that, dave is the new dsm god! All hail the almighty dave!

*edit* i cant find anything that dave said that said it was an agp turbo..... ***tokes the glass pipe tyrone biggins style***

Brian, i saw that run, woody would have broke out bad, he passed the civic by like 2 cars and then let off early in 4th. F that though, i would have wanted to see what that car has in it, not just keep racing bracket all night.
 
Here's the insiders scoop, the turbo is actually a Pneumified-PTErs49tE, OK? :) heh The real story is the turbo started out as a pure PTE5031E, then I blew the motor which sent scrapnel through the turbine wheel. The compressor and exhaust housings were not damaged, so I called around and AGP gave me a really good deal on just the center section without housings. YAY! Then a month after I fixed it they came out with the BB 50 trim cartrides. DAM! So it's an AGP center cartridge with PTE housings and my own porting. I prefer AGP's cartridge because they make their own 360 degree thrust bearing, and it's bolted down, which is how Forced Performance builds their non-BB turbos, too.

I wasn't running pure 116 octane, just 2.8 gallons mixed with about 4 gallons of 100 octane. I actually got it to knock in 3rd and 4th gear on my last run. It only took 25psi of boost, that's all! :)

I was thinking about this all day at work today, and I think I'm going to run the 14b again. I was playing with the HP calculator at dsm.org/tools/calchp.html and it's going to take a lot of weight reduction and some really good driving to get into the 11's. I'm not sure if I can do it, but I want to see how close I can get. At least I'll be in the top 20 14b times at DSMTimes.org Plus I'm sure I'll learn something along the way, and that can only help when I get the new turbo setup installed. :)
 
Well good luck dave. Hopefully i'll be there with you at infineon every step of the way and watch you set some records or something!
maybe somewhere in there i'll run a 12 with all the mods i have!

If you do get to 11's i cant wait to see what you do with the gt35!!!

anyways, best of luck to you, and may the 14b force be with you
 
I think my compression has gone to shit, I need to rebuild the engine if I want to keep racing it. I never really tuned it after I got the wideband installed just from frusteration with it. I didn't notice that on pump gas I had it tuned to about 13.5:1 and Im pretty sure that even though I drove it for (much less) than 1000 miles like that, the damage has been done. I got those rims on, and was just thinking,... I could be holding a nice set of pistons in my hands instead..... Maybe all that was destroyed was the rings, but paul, you saw the spark plugs that came out,... didn't look good. I kinda got that vibe from you, but it seemed like you didn't want to scare me. Should have listened to my knock sensor more..... Im going to try and drive it even less and run much richer so that no more damage is done to the cylinder walls. hopefully boring it out 20 will take care of all the damage done. Thats 1mm, right? by the end of the summer I should have a pretty built engine pushing this 14b, rather than what I wanted to have done. O well, whatever.

again, this is all only speculation, it could be fine and I might just have bad spark plugs or something. I doubt its that easy though. Hopefully its like a huge boost leak, but that wouldn't be causing these types of problems I think. that big a drop in trap speeds can really only mean one thing to me.

the new rims look great btw, I'll wash and take pics tomorrow. I might raid a bmw meet. The rims do need to be repainted, but it will work for now. The car is pulling HARD left, I think one of the tires isn't on all the way, but Im pretty sure I figured that out. One of the wheels feels offset to one way at the break roto, so Im guessing its that wheel. The rear tires look SOOOO nice now that the rim is flush with the fenders. black on black with silver lug nuts and gray centercaps.... I need to paint the eagle logos black (not all the way, you'll see) and I'll be good to go.
 
No no no, you got me all wrong. I love scaring people :D

Your plugs didin't look that bad. They were a bit on a leaner side, but to horribly. You should have your compression checked before dismissing your engine. It may not bad as bad as you think.

A drop in your trap speed can mean one thing: you making less power. Now there are thousand reasons for that, and bad rings aren't exactly on top of the suspect list. Your car isn't even letting so much as a puff of blue smoke. As I said, check compression, and then trace your timing, knock and AFR to get a good idea about why you're not making much power. Also see how stable is your boost up on top.

tstkl said:
I think my compression has gone to shit, I need to rebuild the engine if I want to keep racing it. I never really tuned it after I got the wideband installed just from frusteration with it. I didn't notice that on pump gas I had it tuned to about 13.5:1 and Im pretty sure that even though I drove it for (much less) than 1000 miles like that, the damage has been done. I got those rims on, and was just thinking,... I could be holding a nice set of pistons in my hands instead..... Maybe all that was destroyed was the rings, but paul, you saw the spark plugs that came out,... didn't look good. I kinda got that vibe from you, but it seemed like you didn't want to scare me. Should have listened to my knock sensor more..... Im going to try and drive it even less and run much richer so that no more damage is done to the cylinder walls. hopefully boring it out 20 will take care of all the damage done. Thats 1mm, right? by the end of the summer I should have a pretty built engine pushing this 14b, rather than what I wanted to have done. O well, whatever.

again, this is all only speculation, it could be fine and I might just have bad spark plugs or something. I doubt its that easy though. Hopefully its like a huge boost leak, but that wouldn't be causing these types of problems I think. that big a drop in trap speeds can really only mean one thing to me.

the new rims look great btw, I'll wash and take pics tomorrow. I might raid a bmw meet. The rims do need to be repainted, but it will work for now. The car is pulling HARD left, I think one of the tires isn't on all the way, but Im pretty sure I figured that out. One of the wheels feels offset to one way at the break roto, so Im guessing its that wheel. The rear tires look SOOOO nice now that the rim is flush with the fenders. black on black with silver lug nuts and gray centercaps.... I need to paint the eagle logos black (not all the way, you'll see) and I'll be good to go.
 
Brian, we also had a strong headwind that night, so that could explain part of the top-end loss, too.

I think Brian and Danny found out (the hard way) that there are several ways to ruin a cars performance. You have to sort through all the little issues before the mods can live up to their full potential. I went through the same thing when I got the 50trim/fmic setup on my car. At first I was running so rich with the 720 injectors that the car bogged anytime I hit boost and got rich knock. During one trip to the track bad plugs held back the performance, another time boost wouldn't hold steady, then I found out if the gas tank was below 1/8th full a hard launch would slosh the gas around enough to make the car sputter and run lean. That was a hard one to figure out. Keep at it, you'll get there.
Right now I'm trying to figure out how to drop another 200 pounds from my car. Anyone know how to setup remote controlled throttle, brake, steering, clutch and shifting? :)
 
So i fixed my alternator! :thumb:
Then i went and drove around for a day, and the car was still making that strange noise/feeling under boost. I launched the car once, and it backfired horribly... Went to drive home to go to work, and i was wondering what my a/f ratio was looking like (since i leaned it out at the track) im going up my hill about 3 blocks from my house, and do a quick pull to see what it was looking like. 3-4.5k about 12:1, 4.5-5.5k about 11.5:1 then blub blub blub, same wierd hesitation/missfire/spark plug blowout (whatever was happening) then kablam!!! tink tink tink. Smoke everywhere, car sounds like a wrx (3 cyls) drive up to my house (2 blocks) park the car turn it off.....
Thats right! I blew the F'in Motor!!! :notgood: :cry:
My friend came by and i told him to drive down the street two blocks where it happened because i heard metal bouncing off the ground. Then he came back like 5 minutes later with a handful of my block and a little piece of my piston. :toobad: :barf:

So now not only do i need a rebuild, but i need a new block. I hope my head isnt damaged as well b/c that would suck even more. I wouldnt be suprised though, i only found a small piece of the piston. I had to have killed the motor even more by driving it home 2 blocks, but once i heard metal hit the floor underneath me in the initial breakage of the motor, i knew the damage had already been done. Not bad for 188k on the car and almost as many on the motor. (115k)

Over the past few months, ive been getting off boost, low throttle knock that has made me paranoid that i had a piston going out. I guess i was right. I think that at the track my piston may have been cracked slightly with the rings holding it together along with the low voltage from the dying alternator. I fixed the alternator and most of the problem went away, but i could tell when i drove the car earlier yesterday that the voltage problem was fixed, but something in high rpms was not right.
I guess i'll have an accurate answer as to what went wrong when i take the car to pauls shop and have him tear it down.
My buddy already told me he'd sell me his shortblock for $100 so i have a good core to work with. Let the rebuild begin!

Brian, id just like to say, i beat ya! And, do a compression test. For the longest time ive been paranoid that my motor was on its way out. Last time i did a compression test the numbers werent too impressive. After i had been paranoid to do another one, a small ticking noise started happening in CYL 1. If you put your finger on the spark plug wire boot you could feel it ticking. I wouldnt be suprised to see that it was cyl 1 that failed.
I think if i did a compression test a little more recently i would have been able to tell that my motor was on its way out and at least rebuild it before i destroyed the entire block.

Id also like to thank dave and paul for suggesting to me to lean out my fuel mix at the track!:p Thanks guys, that fixed my problem!:sneaky: And to your above post dave, i found a really good way to ruin my cars performance!
Haha! just kiddin, the motor was already on its way out!

So anyways, i'll be back in a month or so, poundin the track with a fresh motor, hopefully ready for 12's and better. Just had to share the news with the locals! All in all im pissed that this happened, but there's nothing i can do now but rebuild and come back with a fresh motor, ready to pound it and put down some good numbers. SO im happy with that!
 
guess who blew their jpipe gasket again!!!! I would post the compression test results, but I wrote them on my phone and Im talking on my phone right now. It was like 155, 139, 146, and something else. 16 psi difference being the biggest. I need to make my licp not as tight so I stop blowing my jpipe gasket over and over again.

4=155
3=146
2=139
1=140

paul said he saw 155 across the board when he tested my engine in 05 when I first got the car, so its come down some, but not enough to merit a rebuild I guess.

THAT DAMN J PIPE GASKET!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think Im going to have to put a flex section on my licp just so the jpipe will stop blowing. It won't matter once I get a new turbo, as it will be a down facing outlet rather than this mitsu pos shit. I also JAMED my airfilter on my intake pipe so its not pressed for room as much. Theres where my power went, slow spool and lower max cfm due to a leak in the jpipe...


DANNY!!!!!!!!!!! NO!!!!!!!!!!!

(we have an engine for sale btw. The guy said it was seized, but the crank turns. Take it to paul and have him check it out, ####, it might even run...)
 
Hey Dan, I was right there when Paul got the news. Part of me felt bad for you, but another side smiled because I know that now you have friends and resources that can help you start with a clean slate. You'll soon get the biggest variable in making a DSM fast taken care of, THE MOTOR;) (Kenobi voice) You've taken your first steps into a larger world(/Kenobi voice) :)
 
Yeh, knowing the guy who we bought it from's mechanic skills, I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a blown fuse and the car wouldn't give spark.... It's such a pretty little 6-bolt in search of an engine bay and an owner who knows something about cars...
 
how much do you want for it?
a friend of mine already offered a 6-bolt shortblock for $100 so if you can beat that i'll be talking to you guys. I really only need a bare block and crank, as im going to be replacing EVERYTHING else.
Damn, now i can only wait to see if the head got damaged or not..... I accept what happened to the block, and thats gonna hurt my pocket and summer fun as it is, but if the head is trashed too, then thats REALLY going to hurt.

Im still up in the air to see if i want a 2.0 or a 2.3 Im leaning more towards 2.0 as its easier and i can put more money into it being bullitproof. Machine work is not a problem, my friends dad owns a machine shop so i can get my motor built and pimped for dirt cheap. I just need to get good parts to hold 400hp/tq
 
So, is anyone going tomorrow?

Dave, whatcha been up to? Do any weight reduction? Ready for 11's yet?

I still dont even know what motor configuration im going with. Im leaning towards stock rods, weisco pistons..... but Im still up in the air with the whole build. I need a damn cherry picker!!!

Paul, if you have a minute sometime, call me please, I havent been able to reach you when i call. I need help planning out the details of getting this motor built and put in.

Alex, hows your car runnin?

Damn this sucks!!! This motor is gonna take me a lot longer than i wanted it to. I'll be back in july probably though.

Chime in folks! I havent heard anything from any of the locals in a while.
 
Hullo. I'm still working on the car, so I'm not going tommorow. I took out about 90 pounds so far, and there's about 95 pounds more I could take out. I just finished porting a velocity stack on the 14b compressor inlet and porting the outlet to match a Dejon outlet elbow. Next I'll install a hacked 2g maf and a pvc 3" intake pipe, then re-tune. I'm also getting shorter+stiffer springs for the rear end, then I can redo the alignment in hopes that it hooks up better. I gotta hit a crazy 60' time to get into the 11's, so you guys get to see a 6k rpm (or more) stutter launch. :)
The next time I hit the track the car will have a few more ponies, less weight, and be able to launch harder. I hope it works.

Yes, motor rebuilds seem like quick work, but then it just stretches on and on. Forged pistons and stock rods are a good combo. Forged pistons are lighter than stock, so it will reduce the stress on the rod a bit, allowing you to hit higher revs safely. You'll have to get the small end of the rod resized to accomodate a floating pin, but that's cheap and easy for a machine shop to do. Do you plan on doing any headwork? Might as well do some mild work to the ports and combustion chambers to free up a few more ponies. I did. You know the saying,"while you're in there..."
 
dave, any way I can convince you to write up what you've take off to get your car so light? 90+95=185 lbs, off an already light wieght car. I'm not going, compressor outlet gasket hasn't been replace yet, and I have no poly motor mounts nor a felx section to keep it from blowing for the fourth time. Whatever I think I might redo the suspension next, the front end floats so easily.


dave, did I mention I hate you... LOL. We just sold the fwd koni's for 500, split 3 ways thats 166.66 for me, but I think we found another car we are going to pick up for 400. This time were putting that used engine to work, seeing if it will run, since it looks perfect. Then we'll sell a running car and see what we can get for it. its a 1994 tsi awd, so right now its a 7/4 auto, but the guy has everything for an mtx convertion minus the tranny itself. If we find a 6 bolt tranny, it will be a 6/4 1994 mtx awd.... who wouldn't want that?

reguardless, I still owe my parents like 300 for this computer or something close to that. I think the exact number was 321.something. after throwing down 133.33-200 for this new car that number will be higher, but if we don't get it, in four weeks Ill be paid off and ready to mod again. I want dsmlink next, but version three hasn't come out yet. I think if it doesn't come out when I have the 600 for it. Ill start on this little list I made the other day...


fic 10 an fuel rail-165-fic
aeromotive fpr 10 an-159-dsms
aeromotive fuel filter-100-dsms
1000cc fic fuel injectors-310-fic
supra fuel pump-260-3sx
=984


8 -an fuel lines
walbro 255 hp inline fuel pump
fittings
=200+


I know, I know, overkill. NONSENSE I SAY!!!!!!

after that list is done, I have dsmlink, and I get me an sbr exhaust manifold, Ill be ready for a fp3575. After I get that, build the engine and head, I'll get a nos set up probably. Although I also have my suspension build in another txt document, and I haven't decided the order of which including all that stuff.

I hope to have all the fuel stuff done, the exhaust manifold, the turbo, and some suspension stuff done by the end of my senior year. Seems reasonable to me, what about you guys? If we buy this car for 400, a used mtx 6 bolt tranny for like 300, and sell it for 2500+, thats 1800, split 3 ways, 600 each, split two ways, 900 each. (in case you haven't guessed, the third guy is kinda iffy.) and we are hoping to be done with our next car (whatever it may be, this 94, or some other car) by the end of summer, then start another as a senior year project, so we will be done with two cars by the time I want to be done with all that stuff...


I figured Id make a huge post to keep us all occupied since none of our cars are running. LOL DSM'S, THE LOVE, THE HATE....
 
OK for starters I got a new battery, see? :sneaky: There's plenty of room for a big Q45 throttle body on a sheet metal intake manifold. :thumb: As you can see, I also removed the battery tray and made a small bracket out of lightweight aluminum. saved 16 pounds.
I also removed;
rear swaybar-14 lbs
underhood insulation and a few small braces-2 lbs
windshield washer bottle +hoses-2 lbs
automatic seatbelts-22 lbs
radio and rear speakers-12lbs
drivers side motor mount extension-1.8 lbs
various trim, wiring, ducting, bolts, clips +stuff-13 lbs.
AC hoses+ that thing in front of the radiator- I can't recall it's name! Whatever, it's gone-10 pounds.
Next I plan to remove the rear bumper, passenger seat, and catback- I'm going to put on a muffler and turndown after the cat. That's why I need shorter rear springs, all the weight coming out is going to make the back end too high. Odd thing is, the car rides a little smoother without the rear swaybar, and cornering is still good, it just leans a little more. The new springs should improve cornering and add back some harshness.
I was thinking about removing the front swaybar, but it's a lot of work, and it's only about 9 pounds. I'm going to see if I can squeeze the AC compressor out past all the hoses. The interior still has all the rugs, center console, door panels, and most of the plastic panels. There's more weight that can come out if I really want to hack up the car.

I got out for some tuning tonight. The hacked 2G maf is hardly showing any airflow Hz. WOT at 20 psi and the most I saw was about 1200 hz. Barometer showed almost zero pressure drop, 'yawn, show me some real airflow'

I also added two washers under the wastegate actuator to help it hold more than 20 psi past 5k rpm. Fuel pressure is up to 50 psi, the fpr is erratic above that.

Pop Quiz! I'm sure you guys have seen John Shepherds 7.9 run vid. I was thinking of copying him and adding a functional smiley face to my steering wheel. What does his smiley button do? Should I get one too?
 

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Dave, what ever happened to fast with class???:p


I dont think that me and ron approve of all of this weight reduction you are doing. :nono: (inside joke)

haha, anyways, damn man!! If you pull off 11's any way with that setup im going to be like..WTF :cry: :thumb: :D

Ok i have one last dilema to get over with the motor.... stock reconditioned (tested) rods with arp rod bolts, converted to full float, or aftermarket rods (eagle or skat h-beam). I dont plan to make more than 450hp on the future setup for the car. 50trim, supporting mods, ~27-28psi. Thats like 400-450 depending on the tune correct?
Dave, and others that are experienced with aftermarket rods, do you think they are worth it? Or will stock be fine for my setup. (they will be better for my wallet)

Another thing, after getting the rods tested and reconditioned and arp's pressed in and getting them converted to full float, how much am i going to spend on them? WOuld it be worth it to spend the little extra (if its only a little extra (~$100)) for the aftermarket, light weight rods?

Thanks for your help guys, just trying to get this bad-boy built and back on the road so i can run some 11's and beat dave's near stock 12-sec setup!!!!;)
 
I got my ac compressor out witout taking off the intake manifold. go through where the battery was.... easy as cake


a lot of that stuff I don't want to do, but sounds cool. Rear bumper, rear sway bar, and a few others are for sure no nos for me.

can I get some pics of your automatic seatbelt removal? thats top of my list next to pop up to projector mod.

-ac condenser


danny, give up, dave will always have us beat. Gimmy 10k and dave will lose 10k lbs some how. He'll start cutting his own weight, stuff like that. 100lb man takes 700 lb car to 9 seconds on stock turbo. LOL

plus that, he has that gt35r, so he can slap that on the second one of us beats him.
 
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