In the middle of my EVOIII 16G install and have a couple questions?

[EdwardNorth]

Hey all,

I got the T-25 and all the trimmings pulled of and am in the process of swapping the lines onto my EVOIII 16G. I am stuck on a couple of things though and I don't know what to do:

1) FP didn't send me any kind of gasket with my J-Pipe. Do you need a gasket for it, or are you guys running without one and no problems? And if I need one, does Murray's or AutoZone or anywhere else sell gaskets, or where could I get one like tomorrow morning?

2) There were 2 pressure lines going from my Blow-Off Valve to the turbo. One to the Actuator and one to a nipple on the T-25 turbo housing. However, on the EVO 16G, there is no nipple on the housing. What do I do about this? Am I supposed to connect that line somewhere else? My J-pipe didn't come with a nipple either. My BOV is a Greddy Type-S.

Thanks guys! I'm looking forward to finishing this tomorrow with your help here!

 

[DSMSpyder99]

1. Use RTV silicone sealant, but any silicone sealant from the auto parts store will work.
2. If you had a boost control on the T-25 it doesnt matter because you have to cap-off the nipple on the turbo and i didnt even know 1G had a nipple on the j-pipe

 

[turboholic]

Hey all,

1) FP didn't send me any kind of gasket with my J-Pipe. Do you need a gasket for it, or are you guys running without one and no problems? And if I need one, does Murray's or AutoZone or anywhere else sell gaskets, or where could I get one like tomorrow morning?

2) There were 2 pressure lines going from my Blow-Off Valve to the turbo. One to the Actuator and one to a nipple on the T-25 turbo housing. However, on the EVO 16G, there is no nipple on the housing. What do I do about this? Am I supposed to connect that line somewhere else? My J-pipe didn't come with a nipple either.

1, Use RTV silicone sealant from auto part store, apply a thin coat on each side with your finger.

2, This what the 1G J pipe looks like, so I don't know if you would need to put a nibble on it or not.

 

[gsxtacy]

J-pipes have gaskets...so either buy one or make one out of .025-.030" gasket paper...(most auto parts stores stock gasket paper)

The line that goes to the stock 2G BOV is a pressure source....it sees +/- pressure and controls the opening and closing of the BOV.

The lines that go into the 2G turbo inlet, are no brainers....they only fit one way.

For hooking up a MBC to your new monster see this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105573

Good luck on your install.

gsxtacy

 

[SpoolnTsi]

1) FP didn't send me any kind of gasket with my J-Pipe. Do you need a gasket for it, or are you guys running without one and no problems? And if I need one, does Murray's or AutoZone or anywhere else sell gaskets, or where could I get one like tomorrow morning?

Advanced Auto carries them. I got mine there. Dont do that sealant stuff that comes in a tube. I hate that stuff. Yea it works, but to me thats doing it half assed and it looks like shit. Just do it right the first time. Beings your a 2g, youll probably have to order it for a 1g 5spd beings they have the j-pipe straight from the factory.

2) There were 2 pressure lines going from my Blow-Off Valve to the turbo. One to the Actuator and one to a nipple on the T-25 turbo housing. However, on the EVO 16G, there is no nipple on the housing. What do I do about this? Am I supposed to connect that line somewhere else? My J-pipe didn't come with a nipple either. My BOV is a Greddy Type-S.

The greddy type s should only have 2 lines. One of them should go to intake manifold. Its the one on the front i believe. The other one (which im assuming you have a MBC) needs to go into the j-pipe or anywhere in the LICP before the IC. If you dont have a way to hook it up into the j-pipe, you can plug it off at the BOV for now. It wont hurt anything

 

[EdwardNorth]

Thanks for the replies!


I was hoping that I'd be able to buy some material to make my own gasket, glad to hear that I can do it. Guess I'll be hitting the auto store bright and early tomorrow (today).


As far as the BOV lines go, I was wrong. They are indeed the lines from my Hallman MBC. So if I "T" the second line into the BOV line between the UIM and BOV it will be OK? What do I need to buy to "T" it off? Can I find it at my local auto parts store as well?



Thanks a bunch guys. This helps me tremendously.

 

[gsxtacy]

For your Hallman MBC install do what I linked to.

"T" into your pressure source (what the BOV line is) another words from the manifold follow the line down to your BOV, cut the line 6-8 inches up and insert the "T" with the feed towards the Manifold. Connect the MBCs' hose barb with the ball (usually opposite the adjustment screw) to the "T" via 12" of vacumm hose. Connect the other side of the MBC to the Wastegate actuator via 12" vacuum hose.

Now Ziptie all the hose connections. Don't forget to Cap off the nipple on the J-pipe or you will have a BIG boost leak there!!!

The T you'll need is a 1/8th" plastic vacuum " T " available EVERYWHERE that sells parts.

Good luck.....We wanna hear your review!!!

gsxtacy

 

[EdwardNorth]

Thanks gsxtacy. That answers all my questions.

My FP J-pipe doesn't have a nipple so I guess that won't be an issue. Even if it did, the consensus I get here seems to be that the BOV line is a better place to tap in for the MBC anyway, is that true?

I will definately post my review of the EVOIII as soon as I get it installed! I can't wait!

Thanks again for the help, guys!

 

[gsxtacy]

How did the install go?

Checking up on ya

 

[EdwardNorth]

How did the install go?

Checking up on ya

Still working on it.

I'm totally exhausted and it's very late so I'm going to have to resume this tomorrow after work. Basically where I am now is trying to bolt the Turbo manifold to the exhaust manifold. The exhaust mani is bolted to the engine block and torqued to 36 lbs. The Downpipe is connected but not bolted tight, but I can tell that there won't be an issue with my downpipe not having the right angle for the EVO O2 housing, so that's good anyway!

I can ALMOST get the bolt holes of the turbo mani and exhaust mani completely lined up, but I can't get it to go the last like 1/8 of an inch to be lined up enough to hit the threads with a bolt.

I'll have some help tomorrow night so it shouldn't be a problem. It almost seems though that there is a coolant line that the turbo manifold is butting up against, behind the turbo, that stops it from going in anymore. Am I supposed to move engine coolant lines or do I just need to play with it some more?

And where did you route your SS oil line? I routed mine basically the same way the old hard one went on the T-2small..

Hopefully I'll have some good news and a report for ya in 24 hours!

Thanks again for the help!

 

[EdwardNorth]

Well I went out and took one last look at it for the night. I figured it out! The top water line was blocking it from being pushed towards the engine block any further. I bent the line a little more and now the bolt holes line up perfectly. I'll still need another person to lift the turbo manifold while I bolt or vice/versa, since the intake side is just a bit lower than the downpipe side, but problem solved!

 

[turboholic]

Dont do that sealant stuff that comes in a tube. I hate that stuff. Yea it works, but to me thats doing it half assed and it looks like shit. Just do it right the first time. Beings your a 2g, youll probably have to order it for a 1g 5spd beings they have the j-pipe straight from the factory.

-Taken from Road///Race's web site: Larger diameter mandrel bent pipe to replace the press bent small stock pipe. Sized to use the stock I/C hose (1 7/8"). Includes a fitting for a boost source for your boost controller. Larger flange is a perfect match for a ported compressor housing outlet. It is too big to use the stock gasket, we use RTV silicone to seal it.

 

[HSK]

rre makes a lower innercooler pipe that follows right after the j-pipe. that lower innercooler pipe is tapped and works like the tap on your t25 housing. but like everyone saids that tap isnt needed in using some boost controllers. however, for my hks evc iv it seems to need it for its fuzzy logic program. enjoy your evo16g!

 

[98RedGs]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G.html
Full Kit install walkthrough

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G-2.html
16G and RRE Do-it-yourself hacker/tweaker kit install on a 1999 Eclipse GSX (2g)

RTV is what I used also.

 

[SpoolnTsi]

-Taken from Road///Race's web site: Larger diameter mandrel bent pipe to replace the press bent small stock pipe. Sized to use the stock I/C hose (1 7/8"). Includes a fitting for a boost source for your boost controller. Larger flange is a perfect match for a ported compressor housing outlet. It is too big to use the stock gasket, we use RTV silicone to seal it.

If he doesnt have a ported compressor housing then it should work. As long as it matches up with the compressor housing it should be ok. Im using it on mine with a 2" LICP and never had a problem. Im not saying he shouldnt use the RTV sealant. But if couldnt use the regular gasket, i would rather get the paper gasket then cut myself a piece that would work. I guess thats just how i feel about it. I never liked it. Just my opinion. Whatever works works

 

[EdwardNorth]

I found an exhaust gasket at AutoZone yesterday that was the right size. It acually was V-shaped, and had 2 ports with 3 total bolt holes, but I cut off part of it, drilled in the holes a bit, and now it's going to be a nice fit. Looks slightly strange on one side but it will work just fine! I'll be sure to put that side facing down.