Improve handling with stock parts

[theamsoilguy]

I have a 1g AWD car that I race in the chump car series. I have the camber bolts and maxed them out. I welded in heim joints for the active toe issue and put on a bigger rear sway bar to help with the push. I had ran 205 wide tires and Im going to buy wider rims and run something like a 245.

The heim joints and sway bar will probably get me penalty laps in the series. So I cant add any more go fast bits.

I can modify existing parts. Like the strut tower and move the bolt holes inwards to add camber ( which I can tell it really needs ). I can modify the control arms by cutting them up and changing camber, caster, height etc. So what do I need? I know some of the theory but not what to actually do.

Take for example the rears need a bit of camber, not much. I can cut the upper control arm to shorten it. How much? And then weld it. I can play with the front control arms, but Im not sure what would be best.

Alignment, not sure what the best specs would be for toe front and rear, camber I can figure out with tire temps and I already know I need more.

Im replacing bushings ( and they need to be stock ), so that will help.

If you think you were in my situation I would be happy to hear what you might do to your DSM for the chump car series ( meaning pretty much needs to stay stock for this car ). Handling is the problem, not power. I will be working to make it lighter and that will help.

Thanks
Al

 

[lowell]

Lengthen the front control arms to get a wider track, more camber, and throw some caster in while you're at it. Are you changing to poly bushings on the front arms? The big squishy rear bushing will really hurt you, and the poly ones come in black...

On the back I would lengthen the lower arm if you really need more camber. If you run out of toe adjustment, use the rod end spacers to move the trailing arm outwards.

 

[theamsoilguy]

Lowell. I saw the pics of what you did with your control arm which is what got me thinking that I need to put some work into the car. Poly bushings will get me more penalty laps so I need to avoid them even though I have a set sitting in a box. I will be looking into the cost of factory replacements, but I probably will find them very expensive compared to the poly stuff. Im at the limit for upgraded parts so I probably wont go poly. Big rear squishy one? Ive taken from the rear control arm the lower front bushing and put in a heim joint to deal with the rear active toe if that's what your referring to.

So you think it would be better to lengthen the lower rear as opposed to shortening the upper rear. I think your right and that makes sense.

When you did your change you got more castor and a bit of camber. Did you make more than one change to your control arms? I saw the thread and pics where you moved it forward.

Roll center....bump steer are things I can probably adjust from stock to help out without a penalty, but I don't know what I should do. The car has only been slightly lowered from stock. I didn't want to blow out the shocks by going low.

 

[lowell]

V2 of my front control arms have a rod end instead of the stock ball joint to adjust track width.

Are you allowed to fill the motor mounts with urethane? The big control arm bushing could probably be reinforced with windo weld.

How about cutting and modifying the upright? Shorten and raise the steering arm, lower the ball joint pickup...

 

[theamsoilguy]

I can hack up and modify parts without penalty laps. I have some window weld and will be stiffening up the motor mounts when I tear the car down to make it better. I have not seen a thread of V2 of your control arm. If your up to it, I could hire you to modify mine, I don't weld.....yet....