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If you have crankwalk..will it stall only in neutral with clutch depressed? Or will..

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supermr2boy

Probationary Member
19
0
Oct 28, 2012
edmonton, AB, Canada
If you have crankwalk..will it stall only in neutral with clutch depressed? Or will it also stall in gear? My car has a problem that when I first start the car, idle is at about 1300 and when I depress the clutch in neutral with the car just sitting, the rpms go down by 200. When the car warms up, and the clutch is fully disengaged, the rpms drop enough to stall the car. If the car stalls in succession due to this, the car gets kind of hard to start back up and needs to rest a bit before starting again. This only happens in neutral and not in gear. Car runs perfectly fine other then this. Is this crankwalk? The car is a 1991 Toyota mr2 turbo. Feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks!
 
Only way to honestly check would be to check your end play & clearances on thrust bearing...

& from what i have seen

First your rpms will start dropping. Then your car will start dieing when pushing in the clutch, varying clutch engagement will start when it gets worse. After time it will eat into the block and that's when you will star to hear it.
 
If you let go of the clutch to fast and not ad gas while letting off the clutch then the car will stall if you drive stock long enough if your idke is higher enoughbyou can just let off clutch by it self and not have it stall and you do realize this is a dsm board (talon eclipses lasers galant vr4) etc
 
Yes I'm sorry for posting here, however I tried searching on mr2 forums and there was not too much information on it. I noticed more people with dsms have almost the same symptoms ( not trying to insult anyone). Also I hear no noises, and my car only does it in neutral. In gear the clutch works how a clutch should.
 
I wasn't aware that mr2's get crankwalk or it was common for that type of car because any car can get crankwalk. Just haven't really heard of mr2 getting them. Anyway dude there are a lot of experts on crankwalk on this board.
 
Idk I really just thought you were new to driving sticks that's why I replyed first time but one of those dsm wiseman should be able to help you, I sold my 95 talon because I was of afraid of crankwalk hopefully you don't have crankwalk and its only something minor its not fun being without a vehicle.
 
I wasn't aware that mr2's get crankwalk or it was common for that type of car because any car can get crankwalk. Just haven't really heard of mr2 getting them. Anyway dude there are a lot of experts on crankwalk on this board.

ANY car with a crank can get crank walk, here is a link that will explain the who, what, where, & why of crankwalk

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/342560-crankwalk-depth-explanation.html


a simple search on here brings results, before you ask a question search it because 9/10 times it has been covered already
 
Idk I really just thought you were new to driving sticks that's why I replyed first time but one of those dsm wiseman should be able to help you, I sold my 95 talon because I was of afraid of crankwalk hopefully you don't have crankwalk and its only something minor its not fun being without a vehicle.

Lol no prob, and sorry to hear that you sold your dsm. Ya I'm really hoping its something else.
 
Bump! Does anyone know whether or not you will stall in neutral with clutch depressed or both in neutral and gear with clutch depressed if you have crankwalk.
 
Bump! Does anyone know whether or not you will stall in neutral with clutch depressed or both in neutral and gear with clutch depressed if you have crankwalk.

You know a simple search of "crank walk symptoms" or something similar might get you better results than bumping this thread over again.
 
I would venture a guess that its not crankwalk, even though every car can succomb to it. To me, your idle seems high, unless you changed it. Being an old car, check for vacuume leaks, check the sensors like the tps or idle control motor for starters. Also if you have a ligher flywheel in it, this can cause some stalling issues unless you bump the base idle.
 
You know a simple search of "crank walk symptoms" or something similar might get you better results than bumping this thread over again.

Yep, however I looked everywhere including many other car forums and it seems noone has the same exact symptoms. Usually other peoples problems are stalling in gear, fine in neutral. Or stalling in both neutral and gear, but it's never stalling in neutral and fine in gear. Sorry if I seem like a bother but writing out my exact symptoms might just help figuring out what it is.

I would venture a guess that its not crankwalk, even though every car can succomb to it. To me, your idle seems high, unless you changed it. Being an old car, check for vacuume leaks, check the sensors like the tps or idle control motor for starters. Also if you have a ligher flywheel in it, this can cause some stalling issues unless you bump the base idle.

Thanks that makes me feel better LOL. Ya it's not a lightened flywheel I don't think, just the original one that was resurfaced and it's a ACT HD clutch.
 
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If you give it gas in neutral when you let the clutch out, does it still stall?

The rpms drop when I push the clutch in, not when I let off. And if I rev the car up by pressing the gas while depressing the clutch, it won't stall out since I can keep the rpms up.
 
RPM drop at idle in neutral is not a good sign. It means that there is a load being placed on the engine that the normal combustion cycle of the engine cannot overcome. This could be because:
1) Heavy pressure plate loading the engine down
2) Normal/light pressure plate fingers being overextended and exerting exponential lateral load <-- this was my problem
3) Crank being pushed into thrust bearing or block, causing rotation to slow

Essentially if you're getting RPM drop, something is slowing the rotation of the crank.

A tiny drop with an OEM or near-OEM pressure plate, I'd be suspect about.
A drop over 100rpm, I'd be really worried and start to examine each part, including the thrust surface of the bearing halves and clutch engagement.

#1 and #2 can cause #3, but #3 can occur on its own. Say, if your top and bottom bearing main thrust bearing halves weren't aligned properly, or they're failing to otherwise operate properly/too worn. Oil pressure and the film keeps the crank from kissing the bearings and, really, only about 10psi is needed to accomplish that. So, if it's still happening, something major is going on.
 
RPM drop at idle in neutral is not a good sign. It means that there is a load being placed on the engine that the normal combustion cycle of the engine cannot overcome. This could be because:
1) Heavy pressure plate loading the engine down
2) Normal/light pressure plate fingers being overextended and exerting exponential lateral load <-- this was my problem
3) Crank being pushed into thrust bearing or block, causing rotation to slow

Essentially if you're getting RPM drop, something is slowing the rotation of the crank.

A tiny drop with an OEM or near-OEM pressure plate, I'd be suspect about.
A drop over 100rpm, I'd be really worried and start to examine each part, including the thrust surface of the bearing halves and clutch engagement.

#1 and #2 can cause #3, but #3 can occur on its own. Say, if your top and bottom bearing main thrust bearing halves weren't aligned properly, or they're failing to otherwise operate properly/too worn. Oil pressure and the film keeps the crank from kissing the bearings and, really, only about 10psi is needed to accomplish that. So, if it's still happening, something major is going on.

Hey there, thanks for the reply. Ya something is definitely wrong, however I was wondering why the rpm drop doesn't occur in gear? The crank collides with the block if its crankwalk correct? So I thought it shouldn't matter wether it's in neutral or gear cause the car should still stall. Also why does it get worse as the car warms up? There were some people with very similar symptoms and it turned out it was just a malfunctioning clutch switch, or a very dirty distributor cap. I'm checking out things slowly, and just cleaned the iacv. It didn't fix the rpm drop however it does make it harder to stall out. I'm going to check the crank pulley soon and see if it moves at all when I depress the clutch. If it does then I guess I'm screwed LOL. Also couldn't a vacuum leak cause the same symptoms I'm having?
 
Hey there, thanks for the reply. Ya something is definitely wrong, however I was wondering why the rpm drop doesn't occur in gear? The crank collides with the block if its crankwalk correct? So I thought it shouldn't matter wether it's in neutral or gear cause the car should still stall. Also why does it get worse as the car warms up? There were some people with very similar symptoms and it turned out it was just a malfunctioning clutch switch, or a very dirty distributor cap. I'm checking out things slowly, and just cleaned the iacv. It didn't fix the rpm drop however it does make it harder to stall out. I'm going to check the crank pulley soon and see if it moves at all when I depress the clutch. If it does then I guess I'm screwed LOL. Also couldn't a vacuum leak cause the same symptoms I'm having?

How do you know it doesn't occur in gear?

Vacuum leak, I don't really think that could be related.. I suppose it's possible, but the combustive force should keep idle regardless.

Lightened flywheel shouldn't affect it either. I'm running a Fidanza and have no more issues since I removed the pivot ball shim. Oi what a problem that was.
 
How do you know it doesn't occur in gear?

Vacuum leak, I don't really think that could be related.. I suppose it's possible, but the combustive force should keep idle regardless.

Lightened flywheel shouldn't affect it either. I'm running a Fidanza and have no more issues since I removed the pivot ball shim. Oi what a problem that was.

I know it doesn't do it in gear because the car drives perfect otherwise. It's just when coasting into neutral it will stall or just sitting in neutral with clutch down. I even tested it in my garage and put the car in 1st gear and let off the clutch slowly. As I let go off the clutch, obviously the rpms will drop but when I pushed in the clutch, my rpm went back to idle and stayed there. Doesn't fluctuate at all in gear, works how a clutch should. It's just in neutral where the rpm drop occurs.
 
Cleaned intake, and still no difference. Also noticed one of my spark plugs boots had a tiny black peice on the silver metal part..I scraped that off and the car cranks even better now. The idle of the car also sounds better and the engine doesn't shake as much but didn't fix the rpm drop..I'm starting to think its something with the ignition. Going to be checking the crank pulley soon to see once and for all if its really crankwalk..
 
Ok so I checked on my crank pulley and while my brother depressed the clutch, I saw NO movement what so ever. My brother checked as well and said there was no movement as well. What a relief..I'm safe from crankwalk but I still don't know what it could be. I'm thinking the ignition timing is off causing it to stall...
 
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