idle problems

[baxsom]

DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN

ok i am beginning to think i am going to have to rip the entire intake back off and redo it

what the hell could be the problem

once again

cold start is a pita
it idles fine
almost dies and then catches up
then continues to do that until the car is warm

then driving
drives fine
no problem pulls good

when you let off the gas and press in the clutch
rpms drop quick
until it hits idle and then it revs from 500 to 1500
until you come to a complete stop
once you hit a complete stop
and i mean as soon as the car stops rolling
idle is perfect

basically the same damn problem i have been ranting about this entire thread
i though i had it beat
with the vacuum lines
nope

today just as bad if not worse

could the egr being blocked off have this effect
no one has ever talked about it doing that before

so far
new IAT
new TPS
new MAP
new AIT
new coolant sensor
new vacuum lines
new plugs
new wires



no vacuum leaks that i can find with spraying carb cleaner anywhere

has anyone ever even heard of this problem before

 

[selmerguy]

just a thought but check the valve in your break booster line. it soundl like that line is messed up. when press the clutch in at speed(coasting) does it idle funny. or is it when you tap the breaks? i hope i don't have the problems you have when i go to msns. sounds like ems is kicking you azz dude.. you will get it right. also like i said before my egr is and has been blocked for well over a year with no problems.

 

[baxsom]

it does it when i am off the brake coasting with either the clutch in
or in N and the clutch out

i thought about the brake thing
but it does the wierd idle thing regardless of wether i am on the brake or not

here are some other things that might help diagnos this problem

the intake was gasket matched so if that wasnt done right would that cause this

i was told to put the stock injectors on the portfueler plate and the 440cc injectors in the stock rail

when the car revs the air fuel goes rich
and then when the rpms go back to 900 it goes lean and continues the cycle until the complete stop is reached where it goes to 14.6:1

 

[selmerguy]

i think that is your problem. i am not sure but the portfueller is disigned to let your keep your stock fuel system ran off the ecu and to use extra injectors to add more fuel for boost. what fpr are you using and what is your fuel pressure? there is now way for the ecu to control 440's whit out a afpr or sfmu. you fuel pressure for 440's should be around 35 psi. if i had the portfuller i would use the 440's for the pf plate. remember stock injector size is like 200 ish.

 

[baxsom]

the ecu is still controlling the stock injectors
i just switched the wiring harnesses around

fuel trims at idle is -5 to +5
narrowband o2 voltage changes but not very rapidly
no o2 cel but the blinky light gauge i still have isnt moving as fast as it used to



idle fuel pressure is 45

the 440cc doesnt kick in until .5 psi of boost
under boost engine runs great
no missing
it is still rich because i havent tuned it yet
but not so bad that there is a problem

 

[selmerguy]

the ecu is still controlling the stock injectors
i just switched the wiring harnesses around

fuel trims at idle is -5 to +5
narrowband o2 voltage changes but not very rapidly
no o2 cel but the blinky light gauge i still have isnt moving as fast as it used to

idle fuel pressure is 45

the 440cc doesnt kick in until .5 psi of boost
under boost engine runs great
no missing
it is still rich because i havent tuned it yet
but not so bad that there is a problem

i don't know what to tell you then. i would call hahn they have real good tech support. with all that bad azz fuel setup you don't have a wideband? good luck turbo bro.

 

[baxsom]

oh i have a wideband also
it is saying 14.5 to 1 at idle and pig rich at boost right now
(just like everyone else running the hahn base map)

while the engine is revving it goes from an afr of 21:1 (which means no fuel at all btw plain air is 21% o2) at the low rpm
to 10:1 at the high end of the rev
then when the car stops and the idle drops back to 900ish it reads once again 14.5:1

but if i take out the blinky light there will be a hole in the dash
plus i have noticed it is a good indicator of the health of your narrowband o2 sensor as well

i just pulled mine
the element was dark black and crusted with carbon
put the new one in and unhooked the battery
tomorrow
hopefully things will run correctly

because i am at my wits end
and getting ready to rip everything back out and start all over with a totally different intake manifold


i was even told to open up a propane torch around the intake manifold and if there was a leak it would suck the gas into the leak and cause the engine to sputter

i used an entire tank and nothing

 

[selmerguy]

you know with all that great stuff you have i never even thought about the o2. which wideband do you have? you couls just use the dummy narrow band wire from your wideband to the ecu for the stock o2 sensor.(i did this with my lc-1) that way you don't have to pay for a new stock one.

 

[XMasta19]

I thought our ecu's didn't like seeing a narrowband output from a wb02

 

[baxsom]

you can use the narrowband input from the wideband controller

but i have seen that the ecu doesnt like it
something about a resistor mod somewhere you had to do

i pulled the old 02 sensor out and the element inside of it was black and crusted with carbon

wierd because it was put in last year and ran fine before

all i can think of is the hahn map is so rich that it fouled it
plugs are ok but that could be because the non boosted running is on the stock injectors

the inside of my shiny new exhaust is starting to get black as well

i unhooked the battery last night
i hope that when i hook it back up today that santa will have waved his magic wand

oh i dont remember who asked but i am using the zeitronix datalogger wideband
IMO
it is the best thing out there
279 for the wideband plus 109 for the boost sensor

you can monitor exactly
tps, afr, boost, if you get the sender egt and rpms

it shows you exactly at what rpm and boost level your afr is so you can do part throttle tuning as well as WOT

 

[XMasta19]

I have the zeitronix as well...if I can get new clutch and my car will actually move again, I'll be doing some nice tuning myself. Are you using the narrowband output from the zt-2 to feed the stock ecu ?

 

[selmerguy]

i have the lc-1 with xm-1 gauge. i use the lc-1 narrowband input with no problems on my ecu.
baxom, i am real curious to see what your problem is. please post solution when you find it.

 

[selmerguy]

so i went to go hit golf balls today.(man i miss austin its so warm there) and i had this idea. the portfuller is a 8 injector setup right. and i am assumeing that your fuel feed goes into the stock rail with the 440's. then from that rail to the primary stock injectors. since you run rich under boost could your stock injectors be getting starved for fuel to inject untill the 440's stop injecting fuel. then it would take a few seconds for fuel to get to your stock injectors(bog down) and maybe the injectors compinsate which would cause some problems untill your ecu figures it out. good luck again

 

[baxsom]

nope
fuel goes into portfueler rail with the stock injectores and then to the -6 fuel rail that replaced the stock rail and then to the fpr


here is the link to the -6 fuel rail

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/eclipserail.html

it kicks ass by the way

i decided to go with that because my next mod is doing -6 fuel lines front to back
right now i am using the -6 to -4 reducer that came with the portfueler to hook the oem line to the kit and then -6 through to the aeromotive
and then another -6 to -4 reducer back to the tank

i have -6 hardline and stainless fuel line ready to go as soon as i get it running ok enough to drive to my lift at my dads house

 

[selmerguy]

sorry dude i'm grabbing at straws here. did your new o2 sensor work?

 

[baxsom]

thank holy god

the one part that i didnt change until last worked

the o2 sensor was fouled

the only reason i didnt change it was because i just put it on last year

and since i had my mechanic do the installation of the down pipe and exhaust one would think that he would have noticed that the o2 sensor was bad
but when i pulled it out the element looked like it had been spray painted black

i am guessing that the hahn base map is so rich that it fouled out the sensor

got to get to the dyno before this new one goes too

damn i feel like a complete idiot
i was getting ready to start ripping the intake off again

 

[XMasta19]

yay