Boost problems...

[selmerguy]

Well I can easily blow through the inlet, and it's alittle more tough but I can blow out the side I shouldn't be able to..Is it ok to be able to blow through it alittle bit?

no it is a simple check valve just like the one in your brake booster line. you should only be able through one end.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Well PCV isn't the problem. I don't know what it is. I suppose a boost leak test is in order. There is a connection that goes TO my intercooler that isn't flush but it's tight as can be. I don't think it's causing it though..

 

[420aVOS]

OK so your PCV is a little more complicated than a simple check valve, it is a multi stage setup, first off at idle the highest vacuum you get a small amount of air flow from crank to mani next stem is at low vacuum, this is WOT on NA cars and pre boost on turbo cars during this step you get the largest amount of air flowing through the pcv, last step is back fire protection, this is when a NA car backfires or when a turbo car builds boost this is when the pcv closes in the opposite direction preventing a positive psi in the crankcase. now to do all this it uses a cone shape slide and a spring so if you are blowing into the crank side it should get slightly harder as you close the pcv, now if you blow the other way to things will happen one it will close to it wont, simple this depends on how you hold it, the Best lungs in the world are only going to make what 4 5 psi in a hole of that size, so if you are holding it up there is a good chance you will not close the pcv as you are not pushing the cone inside hard enough to seal it against the back. best way to check a pcv is to shake it, if the cone inside moves freely it is in most cases good next hold it so the crank side faces down and then blow into it this should make it easier to seat the cone against the back of the pcv. sorry for the long post but you know what they say, knowledge is power and now you know it all about the pcv

 

[DSMcrazy3]

LoL yes I knew that, the PCV I have now seats fine and seals when it should. Still no boost though the turbo has a little shaft play, but not very much, it should still be boosting.

 

[BlackEclipse62]

I use to have the same problem, what fixed mine was when I installed my oil drain adapter on the back of the turbo, I left a bolt out of the compressor side so the adapter and the wastrgate actuator bracket would fit, I just put the bolt back in and left the WG bracket in by only one bolt instead of two. After that the turbo boosted just fine! I hoipe this can help you some.
Andy

 

[DSMcrazy3]

You mean you had just ONE of those bolts out of the back of the turbo and that caused you to get no boost? Even though all of the others were tight? Oddly enough have all of them but one in because of the actuator frame, if it put it in the fan blades will hit the actuator...But it was boosting just fine..

 

[BlackEclipse62]

Do you have an adjustable arm on your wastegate arm if so, loosen up the lock nut and turn the wastegate towards the motor until it is as tight as it can go , this also happened to me I would not build boost until 6k and it was only about 3 psi , because the flapper was open about a 1/4 inch to start with, so just twist it so it closes the flapper shut tight. then lock the lock nut back and happy boosting!

 

[DSMcrazy3]

So tighten the arm? wouldn't that cause higher boost though?

 

[BlackEclipse62]

on mine it tighten the flapper up so it build full boost quicker,but yet still opened at six pounds of boost. All it does is make you build boost quicker, and if your lock nut has come loose and your flapper has open just the slightest bit the harder it will be for your turbo to spool up. When i did this it fixed the problem. Pull your turbo off tonight and see if the flapper is all the way up against the side of the turbo if it is not tighten it down and it should fix the problem.
Andy

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I'll take the downpipe off in alittle and see if the flapper is open once the car is totally cool. Thanks for the help though

 

[XMasta19]

umm...tightening the nut up on the actuator arm will not just make u build boost quicker, but preload the wastegate spring as well thus allowing u to run more boost no, I'm not speaking from experience here

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Exactly, I checked the flapper though, took of the downpipe and had a look in it looked like it was flush with the port for the exhaust. Then I pushed on it and it was fine.

If the actuator arm is at an odd angle with the actuator, would that cause problems?
I have a little pic. for demonstration.

I also put the last bolt on the compressor housing, it helped quite a bit, but my gauge still reads about 2 psi max.

 

[BlackEclipse62]

when I said build boost quicker, I meant from his standpoint where he wasn't building boost until 6k, that was my problem, the flapper was open about 1/4 inch letter the air sneak by the turbine and straight out into the exhaust. Mine just doesnt have just have a nut on it. The whole actuator will spin either left or right either closing the gap or opening the gap even more by extending or shortening the arm. I thought maybe his flapper was out of adjustment. This the reason why i suggested that. Anyways man I hope you get the problem figured out! I am about all out of suggestions. Good Luck!
Andy

 

[oldman]

Well PCV isn't the problem. I don't know what it is. I suppose a boost leak test is in order.

You think so? I remember we already had this conversation many times in the past. Josh, give me a review on exactly what the problem is and what has been done so far, I will see if there are anything else to try. Please don't ask me to go back and read the whole thread.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Have you done a boost leak test yes or no? If no than pump in 20 psi of air into the intake tract and if it holds for 30 seconds your good, if not get some soapy water and check for leaks. You are trying all of these things but haven't did a boost leak test?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Well this is what is happening. Sometimes I feel power, sometimes I don't. When I rev the car in neutral, the boost gauge will 0 out, then as the RPM climbs I will begin to register vaccum, I get to about 3 vaccum before I hit redline.

Sometimes when I hit WOT the boost gauge will 0 out, sometimes it won't. I'm thinking that is cause by air escaping where the nylon hose meets the T. I slid a 2 inch piece of rubber hose over the end of the nylon hose, then attatched the other end of the rubber hose to the T. I'm guessing that is where air is getting out so as pressure fills the line it is still trying to escape, as more pressure is added it finds a way to escape, so that causes less pressure against the gauge, causing it to read vaccum...maybe?

Also sometimes when I begin to build alittle boost, around 5-6k RPM my car will sound like an automatic weapon. That's the best I can desribe it, maybe you'll know what I'm talking about..?

 

[Ultimatedsm]

BOOST LEAK or MAF.

 

[oldman]

Well this is what is happening. Sometimes I feel power, sometimes I don't. When I rev the car in neutral, the boost gauge will 0 out, then as the RPM climbs I will begin to register vaccum, I get to about 3 vaccum before I hit redline.

This is normal when reving in neutral, you're not suppose to build boost during free rev.

Sometimes when I hit WOT the boost gauge will 0 out, sometimes it won't

Are we still free reving here?

I'm thinking that is cause by air escaping where the nylon hose meets the T. I slid a 2 inch piece of rubber hose over the end of the nylon hose, then attatched the other end of the rubber hose to the T. I'm guessing that is where air is getting out so as pressure fills the line it is still trying to escape, as more pressure is added it finds a way to escape, so that causes less pressure against the gauge, causing it to read vaccum...maybe?

Also sometimes when I begin to build alittle boost, around 5-6k RPM my car will sound like an automatic weapon. That's the best I can desribe it, maybe you'll know what I'm talking about..?

Sorry, never fired a gun in my whole life. It's possible that your problem is not boost leak related but it is very propable. This is why a leak test is always the first option in troubleshooting a boost related problem, you can never rule it out until you do one which makes everything else more complex, you would have easily locate your defective PCV valve months ago as soon as you hook up the leak tester. Why are you so afraid of a leak test anyway? It's cake comparing to turboing a 420A.

Couple more questions for you,

1. Have you done a compression test?

2. Where is the boost gauge tapped to?

3. What is the vacuum reading? What is a normal 420A vacuum reading?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

BOOST LEAK or MAF.

Next time you decide to narrow things down like that try and notice i'm 420A, no MAF.

 

[oldman]

BOOST LEAK or MAF.

I don't believe 420As uses MAF.

 

[BigRand]

Can't be MAF, we run MAP's, so I bet it is a boost leak.

 

[oldman]

We all posted at the same time.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

This is normal when reving in neutral, you're not suppose to build boost during free rev.


Are we still free revving here?


Sorry, never fired a gun in my whole life. It's possible that your problem is not boost leak related but it is very propable. This is why a leak test is always the first option in troubleshooting a boost related problem, you can never rule it out until you do one which makes everything else more complex, you would have easily locate your defective PCV valve months ago as soon as you hook up the leak tester. Why are you so afraid of a leak test anyway? It's cake comparing to turboing a 420A.

Couple more questions for you,

1. Have you done a compression test?

2. Where is the boost gauge tapped to?

3. What is the vacuum reading? What are 420A's normal vacuum reading?

I did a compression test after my first turbo went out, about 200 miles ago. I got 180 180 190 180.

The gauge is tapped to the FPR line.

The vacuum reading I get is about 17 with the A/C on, when I turn it off it goes to about 20. I believe that is normal.

Sometimes when I free rev it goes to 0 sometimes it goes right below 0(not even to 1 vacuum). I know I'm not supposed to register boost on free rev. but should I build vacuum?

I know i need to do a test..I'm just stupid. I will do one by the end of the week. Is it ok to pressurize the system where my intake pipe goes, on that part of the turbo, to make sure nothing is leaking out of the back side of the compressor?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

We all posted at the same time.

That's gotta be a record, LoL

 

[BigRand]

We all posted at the same time.

I like how we have to jump at the chance to be RIGHT about something before everyone else. Gotta respect that.