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idle problems after Installing new BOV and IC pipes

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PDX-GST

10+ Year Contributor
32
0
Mar 5, 2012
Aloha, Oregon
First of all sorry to be so long winded in this post, but feels like I have done a lot in the last couple weeks for learning how to do all this stuff as I go. Thanks to all you guys here on dsmtuners and of course thanks to youtube.

So my idle issues are as follows. When start the car it seems to idle fine at around 1000-1100. When I take it out for a drive and push in the clutch it is at about 2000+. Same thing if I stop and put it in neutral. If I just lightly tap my foot on the gas pedal it will then drop to normal idle. This problem started after my third boost leak repair listed below.

I have made the following boost leak repairs and got the following results. Let me know if you can help with this solution.

Leaks were found at the fuel injector seals, throttle body shaft, biss screw, upper IC hose at clamp, and I think the factory 2g bov was leaking too. Regardless I had to replace it because when pulling off the IC hose attached to the throttle body elbow I hit my elbow on the stem on the bov that the vacuum line goes to and busted it off.

First leak I repaired was at the fuel injectors by replacing the seals and o-rings. Result in engine performance didn't change due to the amount of boost leaks remaining. I did feel a bit more power, but still stuttered at WOT. Oh and of course I tightened the t-bolt clamp on the upper ic hose at least until I could replace it with the hard pipes I ordered.

Second Leak repaired was the biss screw and o-ring. Still stuttering, but power increased a bit as well.

Third Leak repaired was the 2g BOV and IC pipes replaced with hard IC pipes and a new BOV. It is a greddy knock off BOV I must mention, but will be replacing it with the real deal when funds permit. With that said my idle problems began after this install. Also since I know this will be asked, I am recirculating.

Last leak repaired was replacing the seals on the throttle body shaft. This was not as hard as I thought it would be with the video I found on youtube, but I tell you getting the throttle body off the intake manifold was not easy. Too much crap in the way. Since this was the last leak I had to fix I ran my boost leak test and my BOV was staying open so I had to plug it with my had to run the test. I am now holding pressure very well, but I don't know why my BOV isn't closing. I hooked everything back up took the car for a drive, then ran a boost leak test again to see if the BOV would close up after running the engine and it did not.
 
Did you try adjusting the bov tighter and are you sure the flange area is tight enough is it leaking around gasket by chance. Also since you did so much to the throttle body area are you sure the and tps are adjusted properly. Also check your throttle and cable to see if it's sticking alittle and adjust till it goes away if it is.
 
Did you try adjusting the bov tighter and are you sure the flange area is tight enough is it leaking around gasket by chance. Also since you did so much to the throttle body area are you sure the and tps are adjusted properly. Also check your throttle and cable to see if it's sticking alittle and adjust till it goes away if it is.

I did try adjusting the bov with no luck. I think I am actually going to take it apart and make sure it is functioning smoothly. I must say though this same thing happen to my factory 2g bov so I wonder if it could be that there isn't enough vacuum to fully close it. Is this possible.

As for the throttle sticking. That isn't the problem as it opens a closes very smoothly and when it is idling at over 2k I tried to pull up on the pedal to see if that did anything and it didn't.

This problem exsisted before I rebuilt the tb, so I don't think that it is the tps. Plus I carefully marked the exact position of the tps before I removed it to reinstall it exactly as is was.
 
Where are you running the vac line for bov from and is it t'd into anything at all. Have you tested the iac to see if it's functioning within proper specs. Also you said you tired to pull up on the pedal. Maybe try that at the throttlebody just to verify that cable is properly adjusted And it's not getting snagged up somehow.
 
Also check the stop screw that the throttle plate rests on. I've had my idle creep from 1000 to 1500, and each time that screw was stopping the plate from closing all the way. Not sure how it keeps screwing itself back in, but hey.
 
Where are you running the vac line for bov from and is it t'd into anything at all. Have you tested the iac to see if it's functioning within proper specs. Also you said you tired to pull up on the pedal. Maybe try that at the throttlebody just to verify that cable is properly adjusted And it's not getting snagged up somehow.

The vac line is coming from the intake manifold. Just as it was on the factory bov and nothing is t'd into it. What is the iac.

I can't get this problem to happen unless I actually drive the car and actually build up some boost. So I don't think it is the throttle cable. I have tried to replicate it by just reving the engine up and it doesn't do it. It almost like the bov didn't close completely or something and the tap on the pedal is enough to finish the job. Does that make any sense?
 
Idle air control (iac) and yes it could make sense since the bov runs off vacuum. Have you checked the nipple around bov where vac line hooks up is it leaking by chance. Also it might not hurt to take bov apart and show us a pic of what diaphragm is in it. You could also take the inner spring out of bov and see if that helps. Sometime the Knock offs have really stiff springs in them and can make it hard to close tight. I know when I ran my old knock off I took the middle spring out and it worked way better.
 
Also you said you tired to pull up on the pedal. Maybe try that at the throttlebody just to verify that cable is properly adjusted And it's not getting snagged up somehow.

Ok, so I did try this and it seems that the throttle it sticking just a tad. It doesn't seem to be the cable, and all I have to do it touch the throttle body pulley and it is fine. Such a small amount.

Idle air control (iac) and yes it could make sense since the bov runs off vacuum. Have you checked the nipple around bov where vac line hooks up is it leaking by chance. Also it might not hurt to take bov apart and show us a pic of what diaphragm is in it. You could also take the inner spring out of bov and see if that helps. Sometime the Knock offs have really stiff springs in them and can make it hard to close tight. I know when I ran my old knock off I took the middle spring out and it worked way better.

So I didn't completely take it apart cause as soon as I took it off the ic pipe I saw the main problem.

The seal wasn't seated properly as you can see in the first photo. I Reset the seal and it was better, but still didn't hold pressure very well. In the third photo may be the issue why it isn't holding pressure. There is a small notch that seems to be leaking air inside the bov. Does this look like a defect or is that normal?
 

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The last pic looks like the housing is broke bro. If the seal isn't seating all the way aroun it's going to leak. So since you did work on the throttle body and it's sticking, I'd bet it's just slightly out of adjustment. Try to readjust alittle and after really try and slam it shut a few times then recheck to see if it still sticks. If your bov came that way then it's defective non of the three knock offs I've had look like ours FYI. Fix these two issues and I'll bet your car will be fine.
 
Okay, so problem solved with the idle issue. I didn't wind the throttle spring right enough. After wrapping it around one more time and a slight adjustment of the biss screw. Now it is perfect.

As for the BOV, I will have to live with the slight leak until I can upgrade to a better one.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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