PDX-GST
10+ Year Contributor
- 32
- 0
- Mar 5, 2012
-
Aloha,
Oregon
First of all sorry to be so long winded in this post, but feels like I have done a lot in the last couple weeks for learning how to do all this stuff as I go. Thanks to all you guys here on dsmtuners and of course thanks to youtube.
So my idle issues are as follows. When start the car it seems to idle fine at around 1000-1100. When I take it out for a drive and push in the clutch it is at about 2000+. Same thing if I stop and put it in neutral. If I just lightly tap my foot on the gas pedal it will then drop to normal idle. This problem started after my third boost leak repair listed below.
I have made the following boost leak repairs and got the following results. Let me know if you can help with this solution.
Leaks were found at the fuel injector seals, throttle body shaft, biss screw, upper IC hose at clamp, and I think the factory 2g bov was leaking too. Regardless I had to replace it because when pulling off the IC hose attached to the throttle body elbow I hit my elbow on the stem on the bov that the vacuum line goes to and busted it off.
First leak I repaired was at the fuel injectors by replacing the seals and o-rings. Result in engine performance didn't change due to the amount of boost leaks remaining. I did feel a bit more power, but still stuttered at WOT. Oh and of course I tightened the t-bolt clamp on the upper ic hose at least until I could replace it with the hard pipes I ordered.
Second Leak repaired was the biss screw and o-ring. Still stuttering, but power increased a bit as well.
Third Leak repaired was the 2g BOV and IC pipes replaced with hard IC pipes and a new BOV. It is a greddy knock off BOV I must mention, but will be replacing it with the real deal when funds permit. With that said my idle problems began after this install. Also since I know this will be asked, I am recirculating.
Last leak repaired was replacing the seals on the throttle body shaft. This was not as hard as I thought it would be with the video I found on youtube, but I tell you getting the throttle body off the intake manifold was not easy. Too much crap in the way. Since this was the last leak I had to fix I ran my boost leak test and my BOV was staying open so I had to plug it with my had to run the test. I am now holding pressure very well, but I don't know why my BOV isn't closing. I hooked everything back up took the car for a drive, then ran a boost leak test again to see if the BOV would close up after running the engine and it did not.
So my idle issues are as follows. When start the car it seems to idle fine at around 1000-1100. When I take it out for a drive and push in the clutch it is at about 2000+. Same thing if I stop and put it in neutral. If I just lightly tap my foot on the gas pedal it will then drop to normal idle. This problem started after my third boost leak repair listed below.
I have made the following boost leak repairs and got the following results. Let me know if you can help with this solution.
Leaks were found at the fuel injector seals, throttle body shaft, biss screw, upper IC hose at clamp, and I think the factory 2g bov was leaking too. Regardless I had to replace it because when pulling off the IC hose attached to the throttle body elbow I hit my elbow on the stem on the bov that the vacuum line goes to and busted it off.
First leak I repaired was at the fuel injectors by replacing the seals and o-rings. Result in engine performance didn't change due to the amount of boost leaks remaining. I did feel a bit more power, but still stuttered at WOT. Oh and of course I tightened the t-bolt clamp on the upper ic hose at least until I could replace it with the hard pipes I ordered.
Second Leak repaired was the biss screw and o-ring. Still stuttering, but power increased a bit as well.
Third Leak repaired was the 2g BOV and IC pipes replaced with hard IC pipes and a new BOV. It is a greddy knock off BOV I must mention, but will be replacing it with the real deal when funds permit. With that said my idle problems began after this install. Also since I know this will be asked, I am recirculating.
Last leak repaired was replacing the seals on the throttle body shaft. This was not as hard as I thought it would be with the video I found on youtube, but I tell you getting the throttle body off the intake manifold was not easy. Too much crap in the way. Since this was the last leak I had to fix I ran my boost leak test and my BOV was staying open so I had to plug it with my had to run the test. I am now holding pressure very well, but I don't know why my BOV isn't closing. I hooked everything back up took the car for a drive, then ran a boost leak test again to see if the BOV would close up after running the engine and it did not.