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I think I just screwed up my motor :(

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danny_l_2005

15+ Year Contributor
511
1
Mar 23, 2004
weslaco, Texas
First i'll start by showing my feelings :( ... :cry: . my newly bought 90 tsi awd just messed up on me. The motor was new. But the starter wasn't. I needed to push start it. So not even 15mins ago, we were push starting it and heard an ugly noise when we did. so we tried and tried, would turn on. When we got it back on the driveway, I decided to just try to see if the starter would for once work. So it did, it moved the flywheel. I told my friend to try to start it because it wouldn't start. I saw the most terrifying thing. The timing belt wouldn't move OMG but the alternator belt did . So now cams aren't moving. Did a compression test and checked the first cylinder... 0psi :cry: . Ill show you where my cam timing marks look like. Before there were alot closer but not where they were suppose to be. Can someone tell me why does the timing belt doesn't move. (pistons move and pistons don't look damaged seeing it through the spark plug wells.)
 

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I remove the cams so that every valve seals against their seat. I take a known good level and lay the head flat and fill the combustion chambers w/ kerosene to the rim. After an hour or two I inspect if there is no drainage then tat particular chamber is fine. If ther is draniage then I pull those valves and replace. Also the leaking will determine which side (intake or exhuast) is leaking. So that you don't spend money on many valves if only one or two set are the problem. Don't expose the head to direct sulight in this process or a relatively warm environment as yu don't want the kerosene to slightly evaporate and yield false results.
 
Wet check.


Note: Looks like those are new marks on the pistons btw...(from valve contact)

I would also agree with this. It doesn't take much to bend a valve. Those pistons are definetly stock spec. Je's are pretty distinguishable.

Take it to the machine shop. Besides if there's something wrong, are you going to be able to fix it? They can do it for you.
 
This is also a good time to slap on a nice head gasket and some ARP head studs while your at it. defenitly recommend it.
 
I think I must have given the wrong info at the beginning of the thread. I noticed that when I told you guys my timing marks, I didn't know that the cam gears actually have two notches. So two were facing each other. As I can recall when I first took of the head, all valves were closed. Remember, crank sprocket chewed its teeth so there was no way my valves moved after when I was push starting it. Hey xceler8, I haven't put the head back on because I still need to order: MLS headgasket, ARP head studs, 272/272 cams, new valve springs (don't know which brand to get), and new timing belt. Do I need to take the head to the shop in order to make the mls headgasket work right? Also can the balance shafts be taking out with the block inside? *BTW my friend and I own this car so every expense we make is 50/50 on both of us*
 
I'm a 420a guy myself so I'm not too keen on the balance shaft removal procedure for you 4g guys.

The mls headgasket should be something you can just slap on yourself. The headstuds ought to keep it held down a little tighter than the stockers since they won't stretch after you put them on and take them off a couple times.

I had a machine shop clean, inspect and assemble my head when I did my last rebuild and it only ran me about 200 or so. I think it was defenitly worth it.
 
i think that most after market springs will handle the 272's depends on what your goals are for the car. personal experiance has led me away from ferrea(sp) due to some broken outer springs. i switched to supertech. make sure you put in new valve seals and if you go with supertech get there seals as they are slightly smaller and the inner springs wont rub on them. at the least while the head is off you might as well take the time to make sure that its flat. it can be done with valves intact.
 
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