i need some opinions cause i blew up another transmission

[97-gst]

Last friday night i took my gst to the dragstrip, and i was hoping to run atleast 9.6 1/8 mile. My first pass was a 10.6 because i was spinning really bad and missed second. Second pass i almost killed it off the line but didn't miss second and it wasn't spinning and i only ran a 10.2.(last week i ran a 10.1 and my car would not tach past 5k cause of a short in the coil packs) So the next pass i was gonna try and take off a little harder, My car started to spin, so i let off of the gas and then gassed it again and BOOM!!!! POP!!!! RATTLE!!!!CRACK!!!! After i got it off the track, trans fluid was leaking out. I havent taken it apart yet but im pretty sure that the transmissions insides are busted and it busted the case like my other transmission. Would the Jacks or sheppards transmissions be worth $2300 or should i just sell my gst and buy and srt-4 or something else, cause i know if i keep it as much bad luck as i have my motor will crankwalk.

 

[spydergotboost]

weel hop is what is killing you brother no FWD can handle wheel hop. to stop wheel hop you have to learn to slip the clutch that is your wear point for a good reason. 400 for a good clutch = much cheaper than a 1400 dollar tranny rebuild. other things you can do to stop the hop poly motor/tranny mounts and poly bushing kit all the way around. lowering springs help change weight transfer and a good set of struts also helps weight transfer. then learn to either give less throttle or less clutch pedal so fast on the launch. find the happy medium where the car doesnt bog do to lack of throttle on the launch and the amount of clutch isnt making the wheels jump all over the place. then learn as soon as you feel the hop start to STOP relasing the clutch and push it back to the floor and ditch that pass in safety for your car.

dont get discouraged just got to find the reason why the same things keep happening and find ways around the problems.

 

[EclipticalGS]

I got my ass end of my car really light, gutted all sound deadening and everything, its lowered with brand new tokicos and megan springs, complete chassis and mounts prothane kit, Ingalls camber kit, adjustable end links, and these spring spacer/stabilizers in the rear in a couple spots. Its a decently Rigid ride, but its relaxing to know I havent had wheelhop once yet, even with 18's I use for DD

 

[Achelea]

I wonder.. Do you know what wheel hop is?

I mean, I know everyone knows it's when the tire hops up and down due to power, but do you know the logistics of it? What actually causes it to push Off the ground?

Funny part is, if you are trying to put too much power to any wheels, if things aren't right, they will hop.

Even Vettes have Wheel hop problems, and they are newer, and far more expensive.

What exactly is wheel hop? - Corvette Forum

One of the best ways to control damage from wheel hop, is learn to drive so you don't induce it. Slip the clutch a little bit before you get into it.

The reason they are saying Don't do Burn Outs, is since you have an Open diff, only your Driver side tire is spinning. So when you get to the line, you have one gooey somwhat sticky tire. And one Cold tire.

When you floor it, the gooey tire slips instead of grips for a bit, but when it finally grabs, the lonely cold tire suddenly has power coming to it, and it happily tries to spin. But not having as much heat, and therefor traction as the driver side tire, it starts to spin happily. But with the weight of the engine on the tires, the driveline will load up torque while it has traction, only to be let loose in a wild spin, til it unloads the torque, and then it stops spinning, which loads up the torque again.

There are Other factors that can cause wheel hop as well.
A worn bushing lets the suspension oscillate
improperly adjusted suspension
A lead foot doesn't ease up and let the car settle down before they get into it.
out of balance tire or wheel
etc etc.

Hope this helps.

 

[97-gst]

AS of right now i have Tien spirings, top strut bar up front and top and bottom in rear, solid mounts, 380 treadwear radials. See during the burnout only one tire was spinning because i broke my ripgrip insert differential. Then as i launched i held the rpms at like 2g and rode started to ride the clutch out but as soon as it was fully released....BOOM. When i took the trans apart pretty much everything is destroyed. If i tach it up to like 3k like i did my first pass and dump the clutch there it does wheel hop bad, Most of the passes it didnt wheelhop, I would take off and the transmission made an awful noise like something was gonna break. Now ive got to decide what to do about a new transmission. I dont wanna put in another $600 transmission and then rip it out in a month too. So Im either gonna get a stage 3 from tre or sell my car.

 

[Achelea]

I think the reason they mentioned that an aftermarket LSD would break other parts is it would put new stresses on parts not prepared for it.

Have you tried TMZ?
TMZ Performance

Personally, I would get the stage 2 or up, wait til the trans is fully broken in, and then try gentle launches and up the RPMs by 100 or 250 or so til I find the sweet spot. It's like any racing, you need to find what your car likes, and what it can handle. Then PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE!

Look at the bottom post by Twicks.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/356117-rip-grip-lsd-insert.html

On a FWD transmission, I would strongly recommend a real LSD such as a Wavetrac or Quaife LSD Front differential over a RipGrip LSD insert anyday. They can be used in AWD transmissions with good luck, but it is still a budget part that can go wrong as it puts alot of stress on the front diff spider gears.

Think it through. If the car is your daily driver, I'd ease up on the racing until you can save up for a bulletproof trans. If it's a toy. I'd still save up for a tougher trans. Racing can be fun, but not when you're breaking stuff all the time. I've had my car for 2 years and I'm STILL running about stock everything. XD @_@

The best way to improve your car's performance is to tighten the nut behind the wheel.

 

[domthebomb11208]

that looks weldable....and we would be more then happy to weld it and build u a trans that'll suit your needs at a preminum price.Def put good bushings in the car any wheel hop with hurt a stock trans.Good luck with your car

 

[xhackerekx]

i used insert Phantom LSD on tranny and fill big different on traction .

 

[92blutalon]

The thing is you dont want your tires to slip. You want to keep your rpms down. Go easy on burnouts. remember you have a stock trans, or get awd.

 

[Pauls99Gst]

same exact thing happened to my 99gst then I said screw this and did an AWD conversion. but u def shouldnt be breaking anything at that level I was running an 8.2 at 96mph before it broke.. get a stock rebuild for 1k with the added dual synco 2nd and a LSD or inserts and your good to go. Dont go big like everyone says keep it simple. The best trannies are one's that start with a good core. with the amount of power you making you shouldnt be breaking anything. Its all in the driver. hold the E-break so it puts pressure on your diff and gears then have a solid 2 step. like said previesly get some motor mounts rear coil overs to stiffen the rear and if u dont have the money for that put spring blocks in the rear springs so its much stiffer when you take off. . . hope that helps. . deff stay with your dsm dont give up on her

 

[Colt4G63 also]

but yall are awd right?

I'm AWD now, but two summers ago I was running 9 sec 1/8th miles on my FWD KM206 with a ripgrip. That transmission didn't have any business in a turbocharged car, much less at the dragstrip, but it never broke. In fact it's still doing quite well in my buddys NA 1g, and he beats it as hard as he can to chirp the tires whenever possible .

 

[Achelea]

Yes, a lot of us are AWD, but we've had this conversation with others about wheel hop with others.

 

[jp91gsturbo]

If you're serious about drag racing a gst go spend the money to get a good shep trans and put it in.