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I Hate My DSM, or My DSM Hates Me [Merged 12-8]

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Sounds dumb, but you never know, make sure you're pushing the clutch in when you turn the key ;) Some....uhhh....friend of mine forgot to do that after he fixed his car after it had been sitting awhile.
 
:p i'm pressing the clutch and mave had my mechanic try and start it as well.


UPDATE

THe caps have already been changed on my ECU!!!

I took it to a TV repairman and he tested the caps and he showed me they were good. SO all i can conclude not is that the ECU itslef has taken a dump on me.

Now all i have to do is find one. I HATE THEIS ####IN PIECE OF SHIT CAR!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I don't think you are having an ECU problem, but to answer your question. NO. You have to have the same ECU (match the MD#s, MD166260 in your case) in order to get the correct ECU. My ECU is shot on my 91 GSX. I just got a replacement for it today. Mind you, the car tried to turn over and over and over and over etc.... the whole while. So while yours is just doing the "click click click" thing, I don't think your ECU is the problem. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
well actually its just one solid click every time i turn the key.

I guess i'll just have to take it to satan and let them tell me whats wrong.
 
I'm here to save the day, i hope

I used to work at a Chrysler/Dodge/Mitsubishi dealership and ive had my fair share at dsm's.

Hopefully I will be able to get this car running, considering i was the one who took it apart for the guy he bought it from.

Tuesday is the day it will run!

Im gonna make a check list is just start from the begining, i hate taking peoples word for things like this. "Yeah i check this......" a month later " You know what it was this afterall"..... screw that

I still might need some help from the fellow dsm community though so keep your eyes posted :thumb:
 
The ecu always clicks when the car doesn't have any juice , It happened to my dsm
after leaving the door open and in dads car, maza when the the battery got old.
hope this speeds up the proccess . :thumb:
 
98EclipseTurbo said:
The ecu always clicks when the car doesn't have any juice , It happened to my dsm
after leaving the door open and in dads car, maza when the the battery got old.
hope this speeds up the proccess . :thumb:


and u resosolvde this issue how?
 
there is a ground wire that runs off a wiring harness near the top of the transmission. It bolts to a transmission bolt next to the starter. The car will just click if that's not on there tight. It happened to me when I changed my clutch. Try that.
 
Since...
1. You can turn the engine by hand.
2. Have a new battery installed.

There is still a possibility that
a. your starter is bad
b. the heavy gauge (as in very thick wire) +12V wiring to the starter might not be hooked up correctly.

a. BAD STARTER

- The solid clicking sound that you hear coming from the starter when you turn the ignition switch is an indication that the starter solenoid engaging (the solenoid is a part of the starter). The starter solenoid gets its power from the starter relay through a lighter gauge wire.
When the starter solenoid's plunger moves forward, 2 things happen internally in the starter:
1. The solenoid creates a contact between the battery +12V and the starter's internal motor (the solenoid functions like a relay). This makes the starter motor turn.
2. The starter gear (which is powered by the starter motor) is moved forward and engages the engine's gear (the solenoid functions like a clutch). The starter gear is not always engaged to the motor - only when starting.

- A clicking sound does not always mean that the starter is good. It could only mean that the solenoid is POSSIBLY working. The sound coming from a starter with a good solenoid should be solid, indicating that the plunger is moving forward and back - more like a clack-clack.
- So how can the starter still be bad?
a. The internal contacts for the +12V and the starter motor are corroded and the circuit can not be completed therefore the starter's motor does not get the power to turn on.
b. The internal starter motor is bad - this could have been fried as your unit is a used one.
c. The solenoid plunger might not be fully activating to its entire travel thus will not make the electrical and mechanical connections as mentioned above.

b. INCORRECT/BAD STARTER MOTOR +12V
- The heavy guage wire on the starter is directly hooked up to the battery +12v. Check the terminal lugs for corrosion or poor contact.
- Check that there is +12V at the starter terminal using your voltmeter or power probe.

Good luck...
 
i'll look into that tomorrow. the strange thing is that i have no spark . i turn the cas and i get nothing.
 
Are you talking spark from the plugs?

I suggest you concentrate on what is the most important thing which is get the motor cranking. ECUs, timing etc will come in to play later on.

If you want to test the functionality of the starter you can do this if possible.
a. disconnect battery.
b. unbolt the starter from the engine. Don't remove any wiring on the starter.
c. let the starter hang by the heavy gauge wire or have it supported somehow by a hanger or string.
d. make sure that +12v terminal is not contacting any metal (chassis, engine, etc.)
e. using a jumper cable (1 wire only, say the (-) or black wire), connect one end to the battery (-) and one end to the starter housing.
f. again - make sure that the starter +12v terminal is not in contact with other metals.
g. reconnect battery
h. turn the ignition switch. The starter motor should turn and the gear move. Do not do this for prolonged periods as this can overheat.

If the starter motor does not turn - u have a bad starter
 
mzmbaldera said:
Are you talking spark from the plugs?

I suggest you concentrate on what is the most important thing which is get the motor cranking. ECUs, timing etc will come in to play later on.

If you want to test the functionality of the starter you can do this if possible.
a. disconnect battery.
b. unbolt the starter from the engine. Don't remove any wiring on the starter.
c. let the starter hang by the heavy gauge wire or have it supported somehow by a hanger or string.
d. make sure that +12v terminal is not contacting any metal (chassis, engine, etc.)
e. using a jumper cable (1 wire only, say the (-) or black wire), connect one end to the battery (-) and one end to the starter housing.
f. again - make sure that the starter +12v terminal is not in contact with other metals.
g. reconnect battery
h. turn the ignition switch. The starter motor should turn and the gear move. Do not do this for prolonged periods as this can overheat.

If the starter motor does not turn - u have a bad starter


will do, i may also pick up a MPI from the boneyard
 
BrokenTsi said:
there is a ground wire that runs off a wiring harness near the top of the transmission. It bolts to a transmission bolt next to the starter. The car will just click if that's not on there tight. It happened to me when I changed my clutch. Try that.
I've already mentioned that a couple times, he doesn't want to seem to listen to anyone else who has also had the same problem.
 
my hands will be on the car in less than 12 hours... i pretty sure i can get it running, ill be sure to respond back on what was wrong. :shhh:
 
ryanman said:
I've already mentioned that a couple times, he doesn't want to seem to listen to anyone else who has also had the same problem.


or possibly there is a pictur of my with a test light on that exact bolt on page 2. during that process i also tightened that bolt. c'mon man i'm asking for help here not smart ass comments. :D
 
That looks like a different bolt to me, though it's hard to tell .. the wire and bolt he is talking about goes from the frame to a mounting spot on the front/top of the transaxle .. I'll post pix of mine later ...
 
I feel like I'm talkig to a 12 year old. Every time someone has an idea you try some retarded way of checking it like with a test light or something. Your problem is starter related. You were on the right path by changing the battery. Since the battery has everything to do with starting your car, it wasn't a retarded move. Now, check the starter. Go to the "boneyard" and pull one. Make sure the ground wire off the harness bolts onto the bolt that goes thru the transmission and into the engine block. It is a key ground for your starter. Sometimes a lot of oil leaks down there and causes a bad ground. You could even pull the ground wire out and ues jumper cables and ground it to a nice clean ground in the engine bay.

If your starter clicks, there is a problem between the battery and the starter itself. Listen to some of us, we've been there, we've done that, we know what the hell we're talkin about.
 
thanks dad. well if i hook it up to a positiive sourse and touch it to a ground it will complete a circut with will make it glow. I'm not trying to start a fight here, i'm just frustrated i'm sure alot of you guys can relate.

but anyway the problem was traced to the remote wire for the starter. car started!! all good!!

Hear a loud ass PING. sigh the came shaft pin just broke. #### i'm gonna start a new post now.
 
yeah for everyone's curiosity, it turned out to be something with the black wire with a yellow tracer... the one that actually goes to the solenoid part of the starte.

what are day, he has bad luck
 
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