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i HATE knock

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yeti-gvr4

10+ Year Contributor
422
2
Dec 23, 2010
san diego, California
IM NOT SURE what to do at this point people on ecmlink are telling me to tune untill my fuel trims are in line and my idle is good.

i just wont to know

at IDLE i can hear physically something knocking not sure if its a piston slapping or a rod knocking or valve tapping but it sounds like it comes from the bottom end, and it increases with throttle but also fades away. its a slight knocking that you can hear once your next to the car.

my car still beats stock dsms and almost every honda ive ever raced. i dont under stand from what i say is something smacking badly and causing the knock sensor to pick it up.


oh and i just replaced my knock sensor but it was one from the JY it looks to be in perfect condition

please im just wondering and i dont really know how to tune so im still trying to figure it out
 
Most of the "knock" i have seen on dsm link cannot be heard with your own ears.

If you hear something loud like that you need to look into it further. I still dont understand why people with maintanance issues beat on their car. I just retuned my scm61 at 20 psi and im just driving it for awhile to make sure everything is good. Later i can boost it harder, and drive it harder.
 
reason im beating this car down is because i have a feeling when i find out whats wrong the motors coming out anyway, and what do you recommend checking into becuase right now im just gonna start building an engine for the car. im going to get a compression tester today and start there.

and i cant physically hear the knock when dsmlink registers knock

its only at idle when i can here a slapping or knocking of some sort but dsmlink does not register ANY knock while i hear this.

SHOULD I PULL the oil pan and see if anything is loose idk
???????

oh and im only running 11psi and 13* of timing..... but if im registering 18psi in my boost est and 11psi reallly what should i adjust what ever HZ the airflow sliders passing during 4500-6500rpms
 
good chance it is piston slap, and once you get to op temp, or beat on it some the thermal expantion takes over, and swells the piston to take up some of the excessive clearance.

the reason it fades as you increse RPM is beacuse the piston speed is up, and not staying in the same spot as long

soumds like it is time to open the engine up, mic the pistons, and the bote and calculate your PTW clearance.

doubt it is rod knock, if it was and you have put any miles on it or beat on it any, it should have come apart by now.

an engine with piston slap can go for some time and still take a bit of abuse, till the skirt breaks of and the rings bust.
 
soumds like it is time to open the engine up, mic the pistons, and the bote and calculate your PTW clearance.
QUOTE]

ya as soon as i read that i felt a little dumb..

what do you mean by this, should i not put anymore time or money onto this engine until i open it up. and what does PTW clearence mean.

i really appreciate the info and have to keep this car alive untill i drop the fresh motor in my 1g because this is my DD


^ALSO
i was gonna get a turbo thunderbird coupe how do they run? can they run alot of boost?
 
I really can not say on what to do with the engine, I have not put an ear to it.
a slapping piston may come apart the next time you hit the key to start it, or it may go another 5k+ miles
You have not said anything about milage on the engine or if it has been swapped out before or rebuilt

first thing to do is check everything outside the engine, to make sure a bracket or something along those lines are not clanging.

PTW= Piston To Wall


how far off are you from getting the 1g up and running? the engine built?

I love my TC like you love your DSM, but here, on tuners is not the place to talk turbo chickens, Hit me with a PM if you want to talk about them.
But I will say.... 240k mile and still have the factory head gasket in place.... I still am looking for a DSM that has done that.
 
reason im beating this car down is because i have a feeling when i find out whats wrong the motors coming out anyway, and what do you recommend checking into becuase right now im just gonna start building an engine for the car. im going to get a compression tester today and start there.

and i cant physically hear the knock when dsmlink registers knock

its only at idle when i can here a slapping or knocking of some sort but dsmlink does not register ANY knock while i hear this.

SHOULD I PULL the oil pan and see if anything is loose idk
???????

oh and im only running 11psi and 13* of timing..... but if im registering 18psi in my boost est and 11psi reallly what should i adjust what ever HZ the airflow sliders passing during 4500-6500rpms

Are you sure it's not just typical lifter tick 4G63's are known for? Does it sound like a light tapping coming from right under the valve cover?

*Edit: Bradikus beat me to it.
 
it might be as of right now i had my car idling for 20 mins and i could hear this ticking going away and then coming back really loud.. i thought the noise was coming from the bottom but it might be coming from the top.

how would i tell if it was lifter tick or not.

and the motor is being assembled now i just got it back from machine shop and have all the parts
 
i will try the stethascope idea

and i dont know about oil pressure i dont have any oil pressure gauges or stock oil gauges..
 
I just had this same problem. I had a knock sounded like it was on the top and bottom on the timing belt side. My problem was a bad rear balance shaft. It would nock and like 2200 rpm and when away when you got to higher rpms.

One way to check is remove the timing belt and turn the oilpump gear that the timing belt turns, by hand and listen for any noise. thats how we caught mine.
 
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