Huge Sfmu

[rstare]

You're going to want a smaller disk with 450cc injectors. It's all kind of trial and error. Get your fuel running correctly in vacuum then worry about testing it for boost.
11psi, fuel pressure seems low. I would increase it to 18psi, or so, while connected to a vacuum source.
The exhaust pop is due to the AFR's running lean. Under decel you should be lean, but not lean enough to cause a "pop".

 

[Turbizmo]

You're going to want a smaller disk with 450cc injectors. It's all kind of trial and error. Get your fuel running correctly in vacuum then worry about testing it for boost.
11psi, fuel pressure seems low. I would increase it to 18psi, or so, while connected to a vacuum source.
The exhaust pop is due to the AFR's running lean. Under decel you should be lean, but not lean enough to cause a "pop".

ok well the smallest disk i have are like a inch and they have a ring. I heard that the smaller the disk. the harder it is to get the pressure down.

ok I will put it up to 18psi with vacuum on.

 

[rstare]

The disk has nothing to do with the idle/static pressure. The size of the disk controls the rate of gain. The largest disk is ~6:1 and the smallest disk ~2.5:1. (Don't quote me on those ratios)
Again, this is all dealing with fuel under boost. Make sure you fuel under vacuum is correct, first.

Also, all the information I give you is based on experience and what I've heard from other users. It doesn't mean that it will work perfect for you. You're going to have to use your wideband in order to get everything set correctly.

 

[96TurboGS]

Keep in mind that when our engines decel it cuts the fuel, and the egr opens to cool the engine. AFR are something like 21.0:0 on a wideband. If your injectors are leaky it could cause the popping noise your experiencing, or the engine could be burning off the extra fuel from the walls of the cylinder depending on how rich your trims are than normal, it depends.

It may be a good idea to often check the conditions of your plugs. You should be using the silver spring, third largest disk of the 4 (2.72), and third (largest) ring (depending on your set up). Running 10 psi for idle fuel pressure can affect the spray pattern of your injectors, but it will work. It may be slightly rich depending on the fuel pressure. Don't expect your fuel trims to get anywhere near zero without some sort of piggyback reducing the fuel intake at idle. If your serous about running 18+ psi look into MS.

Here are the rising FP's per disk.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/download.php?dir=pdf/manuals&file=superfmuim.pdf

 

[Turbizmo]

Keep in mind that when our engines decel it cuts the fuel, and the egr opens to cool the engine. AFR are something like 21.0:0 on a wideband. If your injectors are leaky it could cause the popping noise your experiencing, or the engine could be burning off the extra fuel from the walls of the cylinder depending on how rich your trims are than normal, it depends.

It may be a good idea to often check the conditions of your plugs. You should be using the silver spring, third largest disk of the 4 (2.72), and third (largest) ring (depending on your set up). Running 10 psi for idle fuel pressure can affect the spray pattern of your injectors, but it will work. It may be slightly rich depending on the fuel pressure. Don't expect your fuel trims to get anywhere near zero without some sort of piggyback reducing the fuel intake at idle. If your serous about running 18+ psi look into MS.

Here are the rising FP's per disk.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/download.php?dir=pdf/manuals&file=superfmuim.pdf

Ok so do i use the (2.72) or the smallest one 2.5:1?

And what should the pressure be at?

U think it might be popping because I have the EGR block offs?

before it never used to pop

 

[96TurboGS]

Ok so do i use the (2.72) or the smallest one 2.5:1?

Start out with the the 2.72 disk, if its richer then 10.5:1 in boost, then use the 2.47. What rstare was referring to was the gain ratio of that disk and i was referring the disk's name/calibration. There are four (the disk name followed by the gain, smallest to largest); 2.22 = 2.5:1, 2.47 = 3.25:1, 2.72 = 5:1, 3.62 = 7:1.

And what should the pressure be at?

The fuel pressure is up to you; try an idle fuel pressure of at least 15-25psi (vac line attached to sfmu) if you can get to 20 psi without killing your o2 sensor/experiencing rich AFR, go for it.

U think it might be popping because I have the EGR block offs?before it never used to do

It shouldn't, I have my egr blocked off and I don't experience machine gun like noises, leaky injectors sound like the cause, but make sure your intake gasket is properly sealed letting no air in. If it only does it for the first five seconds or so then goes away, it could be burning off extra fuel while in decel, as i explained in my other post due to the oversize injectors.

EDIT: The 2.72 is the second largest not third largest, my bad.

 

[Turbizmo]

Start out with the the 2.72 disk, if its richer then 10.5:1 in boost, then use the 2.47. What rstare was referring to was the gain ratio of that disk and i was referring the disk's name/calibration. There are four (the disk name followed by the gain, smallest to largest); 2.22 = 2.5:1, 2.47 = 3.25:1, 2.72 = 5:1, 3.62 = 7:1.



The fuel pressure is up to you; try an idle fuel pressure of at least 15-25psi (vac line attached to sfmu) if you can get to 20 psi without killing your o2 sensor/experiencing rich AFR, go for it.



It shouldn’t, I have my egr blocked off and I don’t experience machine gun like noises, leaky injectors sound like the cause, but make sure your intake gasket is properly sealed letting no air in. If it only does it for the first five seconds or so then goes away, it could be burning off extra fuel while in decel, as i explained in my other post due to the oversize injectors.

EDIT: The 2.72 is the second largest not third largest, my bad.

I believe its still the third disk.

1)2.22 = 2.5:1,
2)2.47 = 3.25:1,
3)2.72 = 5:1, <-----------
4)3.62 = 7:1.

 

[Turbizmo]

Ok well my car had broken down but know its back again for fine tuning .

this is how I got it. I have the 2.72 disk and the ring and the black spring inside the SFMU and the psi at idle is at 20 with vacuum on. I did a leak test and no leaks what so ever.

It still pops. so I guess Im going to have to live with it.
whats the least i can decrease the PSI at idle?

I tried the same disk and ring with the silver spring and it was almost the same thing.

Should I try a smaller disk???

 

[rstare]

I don't think you're quite getting the point here.
The disk size only changes rate of gain, while under boost. It doesn't affect anything else. So, if you're not in boost, it doesn't matter what size the disk is...

The idle pressure is adjustable to accommodate bigger injectors. Once you have a normal AFR reading at idle, then you don't have to worry about it.
What Wideband do you have?
I'm also not too sure of your current issue.. Just the exhaust popping is the only thing wrong, now?

 

[96TurboGS]

Yeah, you have something wrong. Make sure your bleed valve is screwed all the way in, then make sure the SFMU's blue gasket has no tears or rips, then check your vac lines for tears/leaks. You should see a huge difference. I had success with the silver spring, but the black should work.

EDIT: i was assuming you had tried it under boost......

 

[Turbizmo]

I don't think you're quite getting the point here.
The disk size only changes rate of gain, while under boost. It doesn't affect anything else. So, if you're not in boost, it doesn't matter what size the disk is...
[QUOTE If you have a logger, or can borrow one, adjust the fuel pressure until fuel trims are near 0% when in vacuum. Make a note of fuel pressure for you own record, then leave it alone. Once you have done this the factory ECU can take care of everything else fuel related when you're not boosting, afterwhich you can begin tuning the SFMU for boost.

Don't bother with boost until you can get the injectors running properly in vacuum. ]

The idle pressure is adjustable to accommodate bigger injectors. Once you have a normal AFR reading at idle, then you don't have to worry about it.
What Wideband do you have?
I'm also not too sure of your current issue.. Just the exhaust popping is the only thing wrong, now?

yeah the car runs good. I have the AEM wideband. Im just afraid to step on it and have something go bad.

where can I find a data logger since people here told me to set the base fuel pressure at 0 like

Locke said If you have a logger, or can borrow one, adjust the fuel pressure until fuel trims are near 0% when in vacuum. Make a note of fuel pressure for you own record, then leave it alone. Once you have done this the factory ECU can take care of everything else fuel related when you're not boosting, afterwhich you can begin tuning the SFMU for boost.

Don't bother with boost until you can get the injectors running properly in vacuum.

 

[96TurboGS]

Locke said If you have a logger, or can borrow one, adjust the fuel pressure until fuel trims are near 0% when in vacuum.

As i said in a earlier post:

It may be slightly rich depending on the fuel pressure. Don't expect your fuel trims to get anywhere near zero without some sort of piggyback reducing the fuel intake at idle.

With that being said, get a decent idle and start adjusting the SFMU to your needs. Check out my other post I just posted before you, if you're having problems with the SFMU in boost; simple things can easily get overlooked.

 

[Turbizmo]

will a Data Logger from a 4g63 work for my car?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

will a Data Logger from a 4g63 work for my car?

As long as it's a standard ISO OBD-II logger it will.

 

[rstare]

It doesn't really sound like you have any issues except for the "popping" in decel.
As '96 said, check to make sure you have no leaks anywhere.

If your AFR's are close to 14.7:1 at idle, you should be fine.
As Locke said, adjusting it so that the fuel trims are close to 0% is a good idea, but the main idea is that you get ~14.7:1 at idle.
Don't be afraid to step into it, you're going to have to eventually.

 

[Turbizmo]

what do u mean by 14.7:1?

are u saying that's what my wideban should read at idle?

well I had a code of p0201 which is a injectors one malfunction. I fixed that by getting another resistor pack. The car sems to run way better. It seem to not pop as much at 18 psi fuel pressure but it was bogging a little not much do i turned it up to 20 and its like before.

I have no leaks what so ever.

also I have a question I have like aluminum nipple that came with the SFMU that hooks up to the vaccum of the SFMU. on one side of nipple it has a small whole and on the other side it has a big hole. I never put it on. Could this be the problem on why its popping.

Also i noticed it only pops in every gear when i let go of the gas and i let the revolutions drop close to 2000 and 2300.


So any ideas I really want it to stop.

I don't think you're quite getting the point here.
The disk size only changes rate of gain, while under boost. It doesn't affect anything else. So, if you're not in boost, it doesn't matter what size the disk is...

The idle pressure is adjustable to accommodate bigger injectors. Once you have a normal AFR reading at idle, then you don't have to worry about it.
What Wideband do you have?
I'm also not too sure of your current issue.. Just the exhaust popping is the only thing wrong, now?

Yes just the exhaust is whats bothering me.

It runs its strong at full boost the wideban reads 11-12 at 14-15 psi

I just really want that popping to go away I scare away all the birds in decel

 

[rstare]

14.7:1 is the stoichiometric rate for Air to Fuel. So, during idle, and coasting (light loads) the ECU will try and achieve this rate, in order to burn all the fuel. Once you enter a higher load, you need to increase the amount of fuel, in order to avoid engine knock. So, that's why you need a richer AFR under boost. Also, when you enter a very high vacuum (deceleration) the ECU will try and achieve a much leaner AFR, because the ECU senses that you're trying to decel, through the TPS. This is what causes the "louder", or "deeper" noise during deceleration. I bet your Wideband reads: - - - ; under decel. Mine does, and I use the AEM UEGO. However, your exhaust shouldn't "pop".

Try taking a picture of this "nipple" that you're referring to, that will help much more then trying to describe it. "A picture is worth a thousand words."

 

[96TurboGS]

The nipple he is referring to is the vac restrictor, it smoothes the signal before interring the SFMU. OP: It should be several inches before the SFMU. I installed mine with the smallest hole pointed towards the SFMU for vac/boost smoothing. (i never noticed the difference) Most of the answers you’re looking for have been answered regarding the popping sound. As I mentioned before......check the conditions of your plugs, it tells you a thing or two about your running conditions. If this checks out, look into the injectors. To check the injectors you may want to pull them and activate the fuel pump to see if they are leaking.

 

[Turbizmo]

yes my wide ban reads "---" whenever i decel. I will check my injectors and plugs tomorrow Im just going to get new plugs since i have warranty =-)

Ok I got new plugs/wires and that's not the problem.

also what do u mean by pull the injectors do u mean move them around while the car is on?

or do u mean take them off and check them out?

forgot to mention my gap is at 30 NGK standard is this correct?

Also is it normal that the SFMU throws AIR threw the boost screw and the vacuum screw. because when I did a boost leak test air was coming out of the small wholes that the screws have.

 

[rstare]

Yes, he means take them out and check them.
I'm not sure if air would leak out of the SFMU. I wouldn't think so, though.

 

[Turbizmo]

Yes, he means take them out and check them.
I'm not sure if air would leak out of the SFMU. I wouldn't think so, though.

Well let me be more specific air comes out of the little smalls holes "Vacuum,Bleed,Boost"on the SFMU when I was doing a boost leak test. but when I start it up I cant feel air coming out. here is a picture where I circled is what I am talking about.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[96TurboGS]

Ok I got new plugs/wires and that's not the problem.

also what do u mean by pull the injectors do u mean move them around while the car is on?

or do u mean take them off and check them out?

forgot to mention my gap is at 30 NGK standard is this correct?

To get the best results checking your injectors, you need to pull them then activate the fuel pump manually to gain pressure. The injectors shouldn't be leaking under pressure. (Fuel injectors are still connected to the rail with return and feed hoses attached) Pull it enough so you can see the bottom of the injector and activate the pump. You would have to manually ground the fuel pump relay to establish this. (Ground the White wire with Red stripe in the PCM's wire harness) However, when you first turn the key to "ON" the ignition, the PCM will activate the injectors for brief millisecond . (But you do not need to turn the key to "ON" because to the relay is always hot) Also, you may want to get one plug colder (BKR7E's) and adjust your plugs accordingly. There isn't a fixed plug gap, it varies with power/compression and your tune, start out with 30 and adjust if needed.

Well let me be more specific air comes out of the little smalls holes "Vacuum,Bleed,Boost"on the SFMU when I was doing a boost leak test. but when I start it up I cant feel air coming out.

The reason you don't hear anything when the car is on is because (most ports) when there is vacuum within the SFMU, the ball within the valve is sucked towards the back of the SFMU sealing vacuum from the atmosphere. When there is positive pressure (such as the "boost leak test") the ball will move towards the screw allowing positive pressure to escape. The bleed valve or screw slightly releases the pressure applied to the diaphragm within the SFMU, I never needed to use the bleed port. (As I said before make sure all screws are screwed in, there not needed.) You only use the bleed valve to fine tune the SFMU; boost AFR wise. Do not use it to adjust the gain value, you can blow your engine this way. In other words start off by keeping all vaccum, bleed, boost valves shut then go back and fine tune only the bleed valve (only) if needed. Keep in mind you want to keep it rich near 11.5:1 or richer when in boost due to the PCM's timing map. Please take the time to read my post thoroughly. Keep an eye on detonation, you may need it even richer without ignition retard or something to monitor knock anywhere near 18 psi!!! It's possible, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[Turbizmo]

I have one question i forgot to mention that I took off my evap long time ago. I was just wondering will that have any part into why my car is popping? my brother said I should just put it back?

 

[Locke]

Make sure the vac lines for the EVAP are plugged; not an issue.

 

[Turbizmo]

they are all removed so this would not cause it to pop????