HUGE increase in boost after FP 17PSI actuator install...is this safe??

[Ricardo]

1. Did you turn the boost down yet? If not, then get that allen key, put it into the mbc head and turn it counterclockwise all the way.

2. You didn't need to spend anything, you could get away at 17psi and 0 correction with the s-afc. That's what I have told you and what FP told you. I can almost assure you this 100% but without data it's impossible to be sure. You should see a local DSM Club and have a member use his logger on your car to see how your car runs at WOT with 17psi and these injectors. If the logging sessions says everything is fine, then no need for 660cc, you could just sell em or return em.

So, you did this mod is because you want to go further with the performance or you've been mislead because this is a modders forum, so if you come in here asking advice, obviously they will always tell you to go further.

3. If you are going to do the FMIC setup have a shop install it, it's not fun to do all the piping unless you are used to work on your car and do this sort of thing. Chances are you will be frustrated and annoyed. I'd rather pay someone who does this often to do it. You can go to a cheaper place and be with the guy as he constructs the piping and give him direction to make the way you want it (the way for best airflow). It doesn't have to be a top tuner shop since all you need to do is piping.

3. If you install injectors, please do a dyno tune.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

you better have a WEEKEND set aside for this.

I bought a FMIC from ExtremeIntercoolers thats sort of made for my car.
It still took me and my very experienced friend 7 hrs to do EVERYTHING
the most time consuming part was the cutting and fitting
also, you will have to shave some of your fan shroud off if using a tightly bent u-pipe off the T-28

Yeah, I'm expecting it to be a pain in the ass. I'm renting a garage at my apts for a month to work on my car. I'm only going to do the mounting part myself so I can still use the smic to drive around. Then when that's done I will go to the shop to have the pipes done how I want. He said if I come in 9am they'll have it done that day, and that's with hacking the T28 back towards the driver side.

1. Did you turn the boost down yet? If not, then get that allen key, put it into the mbc head and turn it counterclockwise all the way.

2. You didn't need to spend anything, you could get away at 17psi and 0 correction with the s-afc. That's what I have told you and what FP told you. I can almost assure you this 100% but without data it's impossible to be sure. You should see a local DSM Club and have a member use his logger on your car to see how your car runs at WOT with 17psi and these injectors. If the logging sessions says everything is fine, then no need for 660cc, you could just sell em or return em.

So, you did this mod is because you want to go further with the performance or you've been mislead because this is a modders forum, so if you come in here asking advice, obviously they will always tell you to go further.

3. If you are going to do the FMIC setup have a shop install it, it's not fun to do all the piping unless you are used to work on your car and do this sort of thing. Chances are you will be frustrated and annoyed. I'd rather pay someone who does this often to do it. You can go to a cheaper place and be with the guy as he constructs the piping and give him direction to make the way you want it (the way for best airflow). It doesn't have to be a top tuner shop since all you need to do is piping.

3. If you install injectors, please do a dyno tune.

I plugged the two mbc tubes with a male-male plastic plug so the boost is only going off the actuator. It's bypassed now and yeah I already reset my safc back to zero. So I'm running 2 lbs more boost and 5% richer than on my last tune. That should be ok. I still will not be WOT though just to be safe.

I'm keeping the injectors because now I have that huge fmic coming. I did the actuator mod first for some more performance, but didn't intend to go this far. However, once this is done I won't be doing any more upgrades for a couple years. I wasnt talked into it, I gave into what I've been wanting to do for a while now....

I'm just have CFT do the piping for me and hack the T28. That's way cheaper than if they had to do full install. Here's the shop that is doing my work...check out the 24/hr live dyno cam -- you can see the evo that is on it right at this moment. Pretty cool since I just drove down there and yep, its on the dyno. They have a couple cool vids of cars they tuned...500+ whp civic and integra (22psi). Too bad the vid for the evo is a broke link.

http://www.tunedbycft.com/cms/

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Don, I'll look at that thread later when I'm awake. I aready see some problems with that line of thinking, but I'll wait until I can really thing about it.

36 lbs/min sounds right, a small 16g will do about the same. I've seen 38 lbs out of a big 16g IIRC, and EVO 16gs (EVO3 and EVO8 IME) do 42-43 lbs, for comparison.

 

[siceclipse]

*UPDATE*

I found out why i had a hard time spooling up.

the arm on the 17psi wastegate was still too long.
I shortened it by 3 full 360* turns and now i hit 21psi at 3000rpm and break the tires loose on dry pavement.
AND.... Im AWD with a FMIC with long rout piping!


On a small downside i overtightened one of the two bolts that hold on the wastegate and broke the head off it.

I almost cried while dialing Forced Performance and to my delight the Tech Rep almost laughed at me and said "shit most guys when making their own wastegate setups get one bolt on and call it a victory!"
after that he reminded me of people that "clock" 16g's and only can use one bolt.

So i tied all the loose ends and scared myself for one of the first times again when taking my car out.
Its REATRDED fast!!