Hub/brake removal for axle shaft swap...

[Matt300ZXT]

I'm trying to swap out the driver front axle shaft on my 91 GSX. Is there a trick to getting the brake line out of the caliper so I can swing that to the back to get to the axle shaft? We broke it loose from the caliper but the line wants to turn with the nut and I'm fearing the line will tear before we get the line out of the caliper. Is there a trick to that or another place we should try to remove the line from? Also, the roller bearings popped out of the cup with the female end. Do we just need to pry that cup out of the car with a screwdriver or what? It looks pretty straightforward, just the Vfaq doesn't seem to answer my ?s all the way.

 

[turbo90gsx]

All you really need to do to remove the axle is take out the bolts to the strut, and unbolt the caliper from the hub. Most of the time I don't even take off the tie rod end when removing the axles. Just pry back the hub and twist the CV joint untill it comes out. They aren't that difficult, you'll get it.

 

[Dream On]

I never touched the brake lines or calipers when doing my axles, and I've done the front ones both, twice.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Dang, I wish someone would update Vfaq then, now that the line is broken loose I'm probably going to have to freakin bleed the whole car now >: (

PM me some of your wisdom Dream On.

 

[Staytuned]

It's best to remove the flex line further up where it attaches to the hard line and goes through the fender. The other end at the caliper will just keep binding up.

And yes now you will have bleed the brakes to remove air.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

That's exactly what I was telling my helper when we were trying to break the lines loose. I told him it's probably be easier where it connects to the hardline, and he said no they don't disconnect there. I've never removed brake lines and all that, I took his word for it. But now that I don't have to, I'll just screw the other end back in tight and get that axle out, and bleed the whole durn thing.

 

[99gst_racer]

I've never messed with the brake lines/hoses when replacing cv shafts.
Just remove the axle nut, shock mount bolts, and split the ball joint with a pickle fork. Let the knuckle hang there while changing out the cv shafts.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Remind me to put you guys on my Christmas card list.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

You don't even have to remove the shock bolts. Just remove the balljoint nut and put the balljoint out, remove the axles nut, turn the steering wheel all the way one direction, and pull the hub to the side. I've never removed the shock bolts on any vehicle I've changed axles on.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Man there must be 1,000 different techniques for removing this thing. This balljoin method you speak of, does that involve any pain in the butt stuff to take it off? Such as special tools, or having to have the thing realligned when I get done? Or is it just a pow snap and youre done?

 

[Dream On]

Here's my "wisdom" to give about the subject. For mine, I went to Autozone and rented out their tie rod remover tool, which is good since it doesn't rip the boots like a pickle fork seems to do. Its like $20, but you get it back when you return it, so why not. First drain the tranny fluid. Then remove the wheel and then the cotter pin from the 32 mm nut. Have somebody sit in the car and hold the brakes and crack the 32 mm nut loose. Take the nuts off the tie rod and the ball joint. (19 mm I think) Use the tie rod tool to remove it from the hub, and then use the pickle fork on the ball joint. It seems to rip the boot every time for me unfortunately, so I just order the boot from the dealer in advance (part number mb176047) and then take a large screwdriver or prybar and pry the axle out of the transmission. If doing the driver's side one, you'll have to loosen the carrier bearing bolts. There are two of them on the backside of the block. It can be done without removing the downpipe, but removing it does make it easier. Getting it out of the hub is sometimes pretty rough, we usually just beat it out with a big hammer, but that may not work and flatten the end out so it won't fit through the hub. You may have to take the whole thing off anyway and get it pressed out. I put anti-seize on the threads that go into the hub this time, cause they were tough to get out even after I only put them in in the summer. Hope this helps. If you've got any other questions, let me know.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

Man there must be 1,000 different techniques for removing this thing. This balljoin method you speak of, does that involve any pain in the butt stuff to take it off? Such as special tools, or having to have the thing realligned when I get done? Or is it just a pow snap and youre done?

Nope. Just take the 19mm nut off the balljoint and use the pickle fork/long pry bar to pop the ball joint out of the hub.

 

[99gst_racer]

FYI: You can get a brand new pickle fork at any Auto Zone or similar parts store for around $12.

 

[spyder97gs]

I suggest putting a block of wood under the bottom of the ball joint stud and whacking it good with a hammer. The pickle fork will probably ruin your boot. Good luck.