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1G How to remove '92 Talon reverse light assemblies

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XC92

5+ Year Contributor
1,654
376
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New York
I'm replacing a bunch of stock bulbs on the car with LEDs, and can't figure out how to get these off. There's a plastic cover and 2 screws, all of which I've removed, but it won't come out and I'm afraid of breaking a plastic bracket if I try to force it. The FSM is no help either. Do I need to apply leverage somewhere, with a plastic trim removal tool?
 
Ok, never mind about this too. Old car, assembly was stuck on, some twisting and forcing finally got it out. Bulb is actually fine, it's the trans reverse switch that's bad. I was hoping it was the opposite. Hopefully I don't have to pull the trans to fix this.
 
I would bet money you are missing the washer under the switch. No you don't need to take the trans out. Its a simple replacement t if you find that the switch is bad

I'll take the switch out tomorrow and have a look. A bunch of parts that require gaskets or washers are missing so I wouldn't be surprised if this is missing too. The fill and drain plugs on the trans and t-case are missing them, and I bet the same on the rear diff. Since I've never really worked on the car before, it was some mechanic who didn't feel like finding the right parts. It's been years since I checked the reverse lights so far all I know this has been going on for years.

Another mistake I discovered today was that the clutch switch that prevents the car from being started without the pedal being depressed was disconnected. I actually recall this being the case back when the car was operable and made a mental note to check it out. Looks like I just did. This just reinforces my belief that if you can DIY, then DIY. Except brain surgery.

Btw as far as I can tell this is literally the only thing still keeping the car from passing inspection. All the other work needed to get the car driving and street legal is complete. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Well, not properly, at least.
 
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What I was going to do. Can't believe this is what's preventing me from passing inspection.
 
So I pulled the switch and tested it. It's bad. Whether the ball is pushed in or not, no continuity. I confirmed that the tester is working properly and that the reverse switch circuit is fine. Both are. So it's the switch. I need a new one. Now where do I get one fast before the owners need me to move the car so I can pass inspection and park it on the street...

Never mind. It appears to be a common part and RockAuto has it for way less than the OEM price. How much worse could an aftermarket detent ball switch be compared to OEM?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=MD730979

Of these 4, WVE, Standard Motor Products, Facet and Beck/Arnley, which would you recommend? Or should I go with OEM? RockAuto can have it to me by the middle of next week.

Ok, just found out that a local Advance Auto store that I was actually going to visit today or tomorrow (not sure if they're even open today) has an aftermarket one in stock, for $13, by Intermotor:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...t-switch-s9122/18970129-P?searchTerm=MD730979

What do you think? If it gets me through inspection I'll deal with the rest later.
 
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It will do the job!
 
Thanks. I ordered the one from Advance Auto and will pick it up today. Hopefully it will fix the one remaining snag and allow me to pass inspection so I can finally (legally) drive my car! :hellyeah:
 
Make sure there is a washer under the switch, as supposed to be, and it should work just fine. It just makes a connection to ground, I believe, when depressed so the lights will turn on.
 
What appears to be the original washer was there under the defective switch. It's just about 1mm.
 
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