How to recondition old axle boots?

[islhopr]

So I recently bought a car that had been sitting more than a decade in a garage.
I am looking to see what is the best product to use on the boots, and other undercar rubber pieces, to try and bring them back to a plyable condition. I checked for tears or cracks and didnt see any, the only issue is they simply sat and was not used for 11 years in a garage.

 

[luv2rallye]

Try WD40.

 

[DogWhistle]

With the age and thickness of the boots, you may not be able to penetrate all the way through, but we’ve had good results on door seals with vasoline (not grease). Apply thickly and let it absorb as much as possible. You can always apply more coats.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You wont. Once they got dry they are not able to be softend very easily plus your likely to have dryrot cracks so its best to replace them ideally. They dont cost loads and its better as an owner to do it the right way and not skimp on this part. Its very much a use and bin part vs use and recondition

 

[Mech Addict]

The best product I know of is Ruglyde. I’ve bought it at NAPA before in 1 gal container. It’s most often used for lubricating tire beads during mounting, but is also labeled as a rubber dressing. For old rubber I would apply liberally, work it in with a toothbrush, remove the excess, repeat. It wont heal cracks, per se, but should help if the rubber isn’t too far gone. Then you’ll have to inspect the boots frequently to make sure they don’t fail (split, tear). Their only function is to keep the joint surrounded in clean grease. If you don’t drive long distance, you could get away with this for a while. Otherwise I agree you should just replace them. I purchased a set for my rears, but haven’t done it yet. Plenty of you-tube videos on the basic process, dsm or similar.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

When the boots get old they get pinholes in them. Not big enough to see but big enough for water to come through. Get enough water mixed in your grease and this happens

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So what I'm saying is, replace the boots.

 

[Mello]

Silicone spray is works well but for best results you'll need to disassemble & might as well just replace them. Anyway, after removing you should clean them well with soap & water, saturate with the silicone spray, then seal in plastic bag or wrapped up in plastic wrap & let them sit for a week. If they're still stiff repeat.

 

[Kryndon]

When the boots get old they get pinholes in them. Not big enough to see but big enough for water to come through. Get enough water mixed in your grease and this happens

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So what I'm saying is, replace the boots.

Solomon just wanted to add, that's the factory (old-school) high speed grease they used out of the factory on most Mitsus during the 90s. From 2000 onwards they switched to a black graphite-based grease with different properties.

It's easy to think it's mixed with water because it's so milky and viscous, but that's how it looks out of the packet and it doesn't fill the boot all the way. It's just enough to cover the tripod roller bearings and keep the inside lubricated. It usually pours out almost like liquid honey and not real grease. Sometimes when you order OEM boot kits from Japan, they MAY come with the old school cream grease but most often it's just black or blue.

(personally I switched to Mobil NLGI 2 high friction high speed grease)