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How to jumper COIL

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darkiller_666

15+ Year Contributor
477
0
Feb 19, 2008
Salina, Kansas
I have replaced relays, ecu, CaS, CpS, and i know my fuse is good. MY coil test's good. Still no spark. I find out the coil is not getting power to it. So i ran a jumper wire from the battery to the middle coil wire. Still no spark. So my question is. With the coil jumpered is there a way to make it spark with jumper wire? Like can i ground the other wire's to get it to spark? Or add a power jumper wire to the other wires? Just to see if the coil can make a spark? My CaS and CpS both are getting voltage from two of three wires. There is continuity from harness to coil on all three wires, and harness to the relays. Also the CaS and CpS all have continuity from harness to sensor. I am at a lost. I know its not plug wires cause im not getting a spark straigh off the coil.
The ecu is out of a 96 sebring, i have been told this should work, and it is identical in looks to my old ecu, which i know was fried. By the way, why does every parts store carry the CpS CaS and MAP sensor with the wrong plugs? Just to make me buy an extra 30 wiring harness?
 
, and it is identical in looks to my old ecu, which i know was fried. By the way, why does every parts store carry the CpS CaS and MAP sensor with the wrong plugs? Just to make me buy an extra 30 wiring harness?

hehe, sucks doesn't it. Its a nature of early 2gnt and late 2gnt. What caused the ecu to fry last time? Do you have another 2gnt (96) nearby that you could test your ecu in? I still say its the harness, Check around the EGR tube because a LOT of times the harness will get hot and melt and will short to ground there and burn up an ecu causing a no spark situation. Are you getting 12v/5/ground at the crank sensor? Cam sensor? Have you taken the cam sensor off and made sure the little magnet is still in there?
 
Do you have another 2gnt (96) nearby that you could test your ecu in??

I know the old ecu was bad by doing this and i know the new ecu came out of a running sebring. I have no idea why they are frying....

I still say its the harness, Check around the EGR tube because a LOT of times the harness will get hot and melt and will short to ground there and burn up an ecu causing a no spark situation. Are you getting 12v/5/ground at the crank sensor? Cam sensor? Have you taken the cam sensor off and made sure the little magnet is still in there?

I know i am getting continuity from harness to all the sensors so i dont think its the harness, i will check again just in case. I also had the egr disabled... I believe the crank and cam sensor were getting 9v and 9 v? i will double check again i have checked so many things so many times. The cam sensor is brand new and the magnet on the cylinder head side seems fine!

Again this is 420a engine, so i know it doesnt have a PTU like my other two 4g63's.

Does anyone know about jumpering the coil to cause a spark???? i know it wouldnt run like this but i want to just see if its working. I do not want to throw more money at this. CPS 50 wiring harnes 30 CaS 40 wiring harness 30 MAP 40 wiring harness 30 relays 25 ecu 120. I am almost past how much i spent on the car alltogether.

My ASD and fuel pump relay harness look horrible with corrosion and what not how can i test those? the relay is brand new so i know thats not it. should i be checking for continuity or voltage or resistance with the key ON position???
 
Corroded connections can have continuity and not be able to pass proper power. The best way to test these is to energize the connection and check the voltage drop through the connection.

A noid light hooked between either spark trigger wire and +12V should flash while cranking.

Also, why did you change all of those other parts?



OT: Are you a.k.a. juggalo4lyfe (or something like that) on 2gnt.com?
 
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