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Not sure if it applies to anyone else but I've all but completed this swap however I need extended wheel studs now. Just be aware for anyone who is doing this swap. Depending on what wheel bearings are on your vehicle you would need either ARP 100-7717 or ARP 100-7708 and consider open ended lug nuts depending on your set upSo I've been reading around and apparently nobody really has ever responded most of the questions regarding this conversion and what needs to be done throughout some of the threads I tried to use to make this happen. Either they didn't know or weren't kind enough to share once they have achieved it. I have also been getting a few questions regarding my setup so might as well as clarify a few points:
Many question why I decided to grind down the mounting tabs instead of adding a spacer. The 5mm spacer is an option but there are a few reasons I decided against it.
1. It pushes the entire rotor, wheel assembly outboard by 5mm. That would have made my 17x9 35mm offset wheels into a 30mm out font and changed my trackwidth in front only. I already have difficulty with wheel fitment into the wheel well. I didn't want any more.
2. A 5mm spacer is pretty big and usually wheels are setup as a hubcentric item (it centers to the hub outer lip) which relieves the load from the studs. With a spacer behind the rotor hat, that space for the wheel to rest upon would disappear which for somebody who will see occasional track use with this car is not the best scenario. I checked the thickness of the calipers and how they were designed/reinforced and based on my years of design experience I can say that the reduction of 5mm from the face of the calipers will not affect the structural integrity greatly.
3. This method provides more clearance to the wheels. We all know the struggle to fit BBK's on 17" wheels. This install moves the caliper 5mm inboard which helps provide more clearance to the wheel. If I didn't have that clearance I would probably still be fine but some people aren't as lucky.
4. "I ready somewhere/someday that a guy removed 10mm, why 5mm instead of what he did?" There is no need to remove 10mm. That is overkill and reduces the rigidity of the calipers. Reducing 5mm will center the caliper perfectly to the rotor. Measure twice, cut once...
5. Note that this is not a diss to anybody that has done it differently. I have my reasons to do it this way and wanted to keep it as economical as possible without cutting corners. I believe I have achieved this.
Also note that this is for the 2G DSM. It might be the same process for the 1G but I cannot confirm it.
Things you will need:
1. 2 CTS-V 4-pot front brake calipers 2004-07 = $300 approx
2. AC Delco 18K1971X Brake Caliper hardware kit = $20 approx
3. 2001-02 SVT Cobra 13" rotors = $38 each from an auto parts store
4. Brake pads = Here it's really dependent on preference. I chose Akebono's Street Performance, but you can pick whatever you want from either a Caddy or an Evo VIII-IX. $88 for Akebono's
5. Banjo SS Brake lines = Some DSM's have direct threaded lines, others have banjo bolts. If you have banjo you can actually reuse yours. Lines can be found for $60 online (fronts only). I suggest getting Evo VIII or IX lines as these are guaranteed to fit. You can also get Cadillac lines.
6. 67.1mm to 70.1mm hub centering rings (2 only). = $25
7. Brake fluid = $10
8. Qty 4 - M12x1.75 x 25mm bolts and locking washers. = $10
Total = $595. You can get better deals. Just as an example I got everything except for the lines (already had them) for $375 all brand spankin new. Shop around, use coupons whenever possible and you will get deals just like I did.
Part numbers and everything is in the attached images. Those PN's I guarantee will fit this setup. Anything else you're on your own.
Optional parts:
8. 2mm Ti Shims set of 4 = $180
9. Wheels... This should be a given but OEM wheels won't work. You need 17" wheels preferably on the 17x8 to 17x9 range. Wheels that fit, do your research. I can vouch for Kosei K6r's on 17x9 35mm as that is what I currently have.
How to mount these up:
1. You will need to grind 5mm from the mounting tabs. You have to grind perpendicular to the bolt hole. If you are unsure on how to do this or do not trust your skills, any competent machine shop can do it for less than $50. I chose the DIY route and using a dremel and lots of patience grounded it down. Measured with a micrometer during the process and got it well within acceptable tolerances. The final result of thickness should range as close to 70mm from opposite sides of the bolting tabs as possible. I got mine 70mm +/-0.130mm and it works perfectly. See attached picture.
2. The Hub centering rings will go before the rotor. Install the centering ring and then the rotor hat. Mark any excess protrusion of the rings and grind down with either a dremel, file or grinder. They should be as flush as possible to the outer face of the rotor hat.
3. Install the rotor and calipers as you would install any other brake assembly. Lube every contact part and bolt and install securely.
4. With a caliper, make sure the rotor outer and inner edge are at 14mm from the centerline of the calipers (where the two halves unite).
5. Bleed out the system.
6. Enjoy the braking power.
Now you will notice I mentioned optional parts. These calipers are made for a 32mm Cadillac rotor and the SVT Cobra rotors are 28mm. Adding 2mm Titanium shims on both sides will get you to the 32mm OEM range in terms of piston to rotor engagement length. The reduced thickness rotors work fine without the shims, but if you want to reduce brake pad kick-back (if you road race, autocross, etc) then this will get you there with the added bonus of more heat dissipation.
You can select other rotors out there and make this swap as cheap or expensive as you want but I am giving out realistic numbers on what to expect on account of cost.
Now let the bashing/commenting begin!
Cheers
have custom lines made and they can make a banjo with a different angle ready to bolt up and make it ALOT better fitment wise and less strain on the line
