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How much HP will I gain by switching to a 1G intake manifold and TB.

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BIGBLAZE79

15+ Year Contributor
382
3
Jan 10, 2006
Mesa, Arizona
Hi all,

1st post here, I usually just search for info I need for my car.
this site has helped me out a ton by reading about others experiences and warnings.

Here's my car:
1997 talon AWD


Mods #1 - K+N, ported big16G, ported exhaust man\O2, , Gretty BOV, ACT2600, 660 inj and 190 Waldro fuel pump W/rewire. SAFC, profec-B, no cat, N1 cat back, Guages -EGT, air fuel, boost.

Mods #2- FMIC, short rought IC piping, Weisco pistons, Eagle rods, No B-shafts, FP2 cams, Crower springs Ti retainers, ARP crank and head studs, devils own water\alcahol inj,

My question is; How much power should I expect to gain by changing my intake manafold and TB to a 1G.

I am about to put the engine together with mods #2 new and am unsere if i should upgrade befor the install. I don't want my stock mani to screw me from the power potential of all these mods. My best time is 13.8 and want to hit atleast 12's or i will be PISSED!

I spun the #2 rod bearing and had the crank regound, nitrided and polished. I know its frowned on but i have a real good machine shop and am confident if all motor specs are good and i prime the oil and start it with the clutch sensor unhooked. The motor will last another 106K.

Sometimes your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning for everyone else!!!!

I also participated in the Justin ssautochrome FMIC buy and got it today. I see no reason why this could be a bad setup, maybe hard work to install but WTF isn't hard work with this car:D
 
BIGBLAZE79 said:
Hi all,

1st post here, I usually just search for info I need for my car.
this site has helped me out a ton by reading about others experiences and warnings.

Here's my car:
1997 talon AWD


Mods #1 - K+N, ported big16G, ported exhaust man\O2, , Gretty BOV, ACT2600, 660 inj and 190 Waldro fuel pump W/rewire. SAFC, profec-B, no cat, N1 cat back, Guages -EGT, air fuel, boost.

Mods #2- FMIC, short rought IC piping, Weisco pistons, Eagle rods, No B-shafts, FP2 cams, Crower springs Ti retainers, ARP crank and head studs, devils own water\alcahol inj,

My question is; How much power should I expect to gain by changing my intake manafold and TB to a 1G.

I am about to put the engine together with mods #2 new and am unsere if i should upgrade befor the install. I don't want my stock mani to screw me from the power potential of all these mods. My best time is 13.8 and want to hit atleast 12's or i will be PISSED!

I spun the #2 rod bearing and had the crank regound, nitrided and polished. I know its frowned on but i have a real good machine shop and am confident if all motor specs are good and i prime the oil and start it with the clutch sensor unhooked. The motor will last another 106K.

Sometimes your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning for everyone else!!!!

I also participated in the Justin ssautochrome FMIC buy and got it today. I see no reason why this could be a bad setup, maybe hard work to install but WTF isn't hard work with this car:D
I'm glad to see that the site is helping you, however, by asking about approximate hp gains and such you will most certaintly be flamed, this site refers to that as bench racing, maybe you could phrase it differently and still get your question answered. I see no reason why you would need to dish out the extra cash before putting it back together, as these parts you are talking about are easily accessible even after the motor is put back together, and is in no way a necessity to get somewhere into the 12's.
 
Denji said:
I'm glad to see that the site is helping you, however, by asking about approximate hp gains and such you will most certaintly be flamed, this site refers to that as bench racing, maybe you could phrase it differently and still get your question answered. I see no reason why you would need to dish out the extra cash before putting it back together, as these parts you are talking about are easily accessible even after the motor is put back together, and is in no way a necessity to get somewhere into the 12's.


i think he wants to know if it will be worht it, to switch to a 1g intake mani.


In my oppinion, it seems like you are spending some cash on your engine, and if you want it to have the best i would just go with an aftermarket intake manifold, like a jm fab, or magnus, the hp gains w ould be ALOT better than the 1g.
 
Even at that, those parts are bolt on affairs, so he could take it up to the track and see what it runs, then if he is not happy with the outcome, then spend the extra cash on the parts you recommended, or on the 1g parts depending on the size of the margin away from the time he wanted to run compared to his actual time.
 
Make ONE post. Do not make 2 posts of the same topic because nobody has YET to reply.

Thread reported.

And to answer your question, it's not about how much HP you will make, it's about flow. A 60mm throttle body and a manifold port matched will allow more air to flow more easily.
 
BaddAssGst said:
Make ONE post. Do not make 2 posts of the same topic because nobody has YET to reply.

Thread reported.

And to answer your question, it's not about how much HP you will make, it's about flow. A 60mm throttle body and a manifold port matched will allow more air to flow more easily.


This guy needs to chill out a little tense I see, Thread reported come on now give the guy a break I think the moderators have enough to deal with

:notgood:
 
BaddAssGst said:
Make ONE post. Do not make 2 posts of the same topic because nobody has YET to reply.

Thread reported.

And to answer your question, it's not about how much HP you will make, it's about flow. A 60mm throttle body and a manifold port matched will allow more air to flow more easily.

Although you are correct about the 60mm TB being better for flow, using a 1g IM on a stock 2g head is not wise. The reason is that the runner ports and openings are about 175% larger than the 2g intake inlets. If you were to bolt up a 1g IM/TB to a 2g head, you will open up your "flow", but then disrupt it with the air hitting the wall (that you will create) from the 1g IM runner and the 2g head.

As far as HP gains, you will notice a slight gain on top end when switching to the 60mm TB alone. Of course you will also have to port your existing IM to accomodate the new size. However, the actual HP gain will be at a guessing level at best.

goodluck, and don't waste your time doing a 1G IM on a stock 2g head.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
Although you are correct about the 60mm TB being better for flow, using a 1g IM on a stock 2g head is not wise. The reason is that the runner ports and openings are about 175% larger than the 2g intake inlets. If you were to bolt up a 1g IM/TB to a 2g head, you will open up your "flow", but then disrupt it with the air hitting the wall (that you will create) from the 1g IM runner and the 2g head.

As far as HP gains, you will notice a slight gain on top end when switching to the 60mm TB alone. Of course you will also have to port your existing IM to accomodate the new size. However, the actual HP gain will be at a guessing level at best.

goodluck, and don't waste your time doing a 1G IM on a stock 2g head.

Very accurate post. The best bet will be to go with an aftermarket one like Magnus with VS runners to accelerate the airflow into there. In order to really get the benefits of a 1g intake manifold you would need to take the head off and get it port matched.
 
The two guys above me^^^, explained it very nicely, I cant really add anything to it, so pretty much go with what they suggested.
G'Luck
 
Thanks for the reply guys,

I am going to get a 1G TB and port my stock manifold to fit it. I have know idea how I double posted this thread, I did not mean to sorry. I'm porting my 2G head right now and will post pics of the build. Hope to be done in the next 2 months. I have some real die hard mustang brother in-laws that need there arsses handed to them :)
 
is it possible to port the 2g head without taking it off.. reason im asking is my engine is out but my head is still on..../
 
mirkoelek said:
is it possible to port the 2g head without taking it off.. reason im asking is my engine is out but my head is still on..../


you made 361 whp with an e316G OMG GREAT JOB! :thumb: Anyway, I do not recommend you port your head while it is still bolted to the motor due to the simple fact that using grease (or any oil) plus the small aluminum chips flying around is bound to make its way into the chambers of the head and cause some nasty problems. If you really want to try it, make sure you stuff rags into the head and be very careful in cleaning up after you are done. Not to mention the mess you will make in your engine bay.
 
Whats up mirkoelek,

Yea, you can port it with the head on. You won't be able to to a professional port job due to the fact that the valves are still in and you can't port the bowls or seats. With the motor out you won't have to worry about the mess from the Al shavings. The only thing I would worry about is metal shavings getting stuck around the intake valve/seats. I am porting right now and I used 150PSI high air to try and blow out the shavings from the Exh ports. Some of the shavings/powder are stuck right in the crack of the valve/seat. That scares me to do the intake because i don't want that shite going into the cylinder. If you stick some rags in the intake runners then vacume the ports, before you pull out the rags or blow out with high air. I think you will be OK. all you can really do as an ameature with no flow bench is remove the casting flash and port match the intake, mild port work, port match and polish on the exhaust. Also be prepaired to spend some serious time. I spent $100 and 10hrs so far on gringing tubes, flapper wheels, carbide tips and polishing wheels/compound. It sure is fun to do and good bragging to the friends. Don't port the floor too much, try and open the roof and sides and again be modest you can hurt performance.

By the way your car is PIMP.
 
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