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How do I make / buy / use / troubleshoot a boost leak tester? [merged]

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Turbo Monk3y

20+ Year Contributor
571
7
Oct 14, 2002
Orlando, Florida
All boost leak tester threads are combined here.

i read somewhere maybe the Vfaq about making or buying a boost leak tester of some sort but never found it.... the reason being my acceleration seems slower than normal and all ive done to my stock car so far is take out the air box put on a K&N filter and cut the dump tube i have my boost guage sitting in a box not hooked up yet. and since those 2 mods it when i go wot on the car i can hear the turbo spool up and it sounds nice but i can also hear a sound as my rpm increases the SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH sound does too. the sound comes from the same area as the BOV i think maybe i got a #@%#@%#@%#@% stock bov and it cant handle over 11-13 psi??? Then i shift and it makes the nice BOV sound WHOOOOSHHHH... but my car seems to be a little slower.. any ideas before i go check every tube clamp and tube???? OMG
 
dsm4life said:
Ok i got most of the leaks. Few intercooler pipes and the BISS screw.. Thanks guys butttttttttttt

i am still having a leak but the car is running ok with the leak. No longer running rich and builds boost again !

When i pump the hand pump i was using i can still hear hissing right behind where the BISS screw is. I killed the area with soapy water but still i cannot find it. What can it be back there ???? and like i said KILLED it in water. Pumped up and got no bubbles what so ever

TB shaft seals.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/faq/tb-shaftseals.html
 
it has to be that cause i know the gaskets and screws and such in that entire area are tight. Man that looks like a job. Well like said before car is usable now so i might keep that small leak till it gets a little warmer outside. I got lucy with this day so i will wait for another. Thanks so much for help guys.

BTW the first issue i had , unable to build boost. The damn valve stem was bad !!!
 
For some reason the air compresser at my local quicktrip doesn't fit right on the tank. The fitting on the air compresser is bigger then the fitting on my air tank. Do I need another peice or something? I'v never really worked with air tanks and what noT before so if someone knows why I'm having trouble itd be great.
 
It should just be a standard schrader valve. If it's not then you should ask the attendant at the gas station, or take it back to the store for a schrader-style valved tank. If you can get a picture of the valve then maybe we can help you more.
 
herostar said:
It should just be a standard schrader valve. If it's not then you should ask the attendant at the gas station, or take it back to the store for a schrader-style valved tank. If you can get a picture of the valve then maybe we can help you more.

Yeah it was a standard valve, for some reason it was just a tad smaller then normal though. I took it back to autozone and bought a different brand one from wal mart and it worked fine. Thanks for the help.
 
after several months of trying to figure out whats wrong with my turbo, im assuming that there's just a boost leak since the turbo is spinning fine and there's no cracks in it. now my question is, what exactly is boost leak and how do you check for it, i've searched but didnt understand most posts n im hoping someone could explain it a little better for me. And also, i drive a stock AWD, am i supposed to feel a pull from 2k-3k in lets say 2nd or 3rd at WOT? i only feel a real pull after i hit 3k and thats why i think theres a boost leak. thanks for any help
 
A boost leak would be a leak anywhere between the turbo or the trottle body (i.e. hole in intercooler pipe, leak in the bov flange, hole in your intercooler, etc) You can check for a boost leak by using a leak tester. You can build one out of simple parts. you need a bike pump, a valve stem, a PVC cap and a coupler sized for your turbo. Drill a hole for the valve stem in the PVC cap and stick the valvestem in it, you may need some silicone or something to seal it if its not a cleanly drilled hole. Put the PVC cap in one end of the coupler (you may want a hose clamp to make sure it doesnt pop out. Attach the other end of the coupler to your turbo, and plug the bike tire pump into the valve stem. When you start pumping you will be able to hear where there is a leak. If it hold pressure, then no leak.
 
I don't find a bike pump to be real usefull when pressure testing. It's hard to pump like mad when your trying to find the places where it's leaking. Instead of a valve stem I used a quick connect for my compressor and slowly turn the regulator pressure up checking for leaks until it can hold at least boost pressure without leaking. Soapy water helps track those leaks you can hear but can't see.

Steve
 
Hey, for all you who had made a boost leak tester, what did you use to seal the valve stem into the PVC cap??

I tried JB weld, but as soon as i hooked it up an applied pressure, the JB Weld cracked and leaked.
 
^^ :rolleyes:..

Use JBweld or silicone sealant on the inside portion of the valve stem (and you can also applie it to the threads of the valve stem before you screw it into the PVC cap), that way when the pressure is applied, the substance you use, helps create an even more seal forcing outwards of the cap.

HTH.
 
You guys had to seal yours? WTF LOL I got a screw in valve stem used for air tanks and made the whole only big enough to BARELY get the dang thing in, has held up to 20psi, just fine so far.
 
zachakagoat said:
You guys had to seal yours? WTF LOL I got a screw in valve stem used for air tanks and made the whole only big enough to BARELY get the dang thing in, has held up to 20psi, just fine so far.


same here, I JB welded the cap into the hose piece, but didn't use anything on the stem, just screwed it in and but the jam nut on the bottom.
 
i made the hole as small as i could and really jammed it in there tight, i figured it would seat itself when i added pressure, but nope, it leaked. well im tryin some new stuff tonight, when it dries tomrow il see if it holds.
 
i drilled my hole small and kept reeming it out a little bit until it fit through. i then sealed silicone around it. had 45 psi through it and no problems at all. best tool in the garage :)
 
Air can leak through the TINIEST space and can be VERY evident when pressurizing the intake tract *once covering the bleed hole of the mbc*..ESPECIALLY at 25-30psi.
 
I just made my boost leak tester as shown at vfaq. And then I took off the intake and put it on the inlet thats all I did and I can't any pressure in the system. And I can go out and boost to 13 psi no problem. What am I doing wrong? Using a bycicle pump.
 
try a cigarette lighter compressor if you have one, also how did you build you tester? make sure you use teflon tape on the fitting if you used a screw-in type.
And do you have an aftermarket boost gauge to see how much boost you're building?

but yeah, from personal experience, anyone that suggests a bike pump is sufficient is just being unreasonable. You need something with a little more "oompf" to see results before the end of the year :thumb:
 
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