The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

holset HE351cw

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

benjimatt

15+ Year Contributor
172
0
Oct 21, 2007
albuquerque, New Mexico
Hey i jwas thinking about getting a HE351cw. I was wondering if the bep housing could bolt up to this turbo. I was looking it up and I saw that it has an electronic wastegate thing that most people just plug up instead of trying to use it.

(This is not a vgt turbo that is HE351ve)
 
Are you planning to put this on your 420a? What mods do you have already?

And doesn't it already have a small turbine housing (9 cm^2)

And also...
Compressor wheel: 60mm inducer / 85mm backface.
Turbine wheel: 58mm inducer / 65mm backface.
19mm wastegate port diameter
 
Yeah I havent whangedd my profile in a whikle. I have 750cc injectors and i have a 91 gs-t. and I have supporting mods for it.

Im just want to make sure I can bolt it up
 
I have updated my profile.

So i ordered the turbo and now I thinking how im going to bolt it on.

I think im going to use my stock manifold and use these two adapters.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Does anyone think that there will be any fitment issues??

For the down pipe ill get the stock elbow and fab up the downpipe.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You should even clear the water pipe with the adapter flange. You should have no block clearance issues. The issue with those adapters would be whether or not the front rollstop is now in the way. I'll bet it causes the turbo to hang quite low.

This turbo has the smaller hy35 turbine wheel (smaller than the hx35). But since you're using a better flowing holset housing (better than the bep housing), then you could get similar results to the bolton hx35. Glad you'll be running it to find out.

BTW those compressor measurements are for the 7blade revised hx40 pro compressor. It flows close to 70lb/min. I doubt the hotside will allow that much flow though :) . I've seen measurements posted for the he351cw that match the standard hx40 compressor (60lb/min). It would be interesting to see the potential of this turbo. Supposedly the he351cw has a revised turbine housing to the hy35 that has better flow but with the same a/r. There may be enough flow there to see the compressors flow potential.
 
You should even clear the water pipe with the adapter flange. You should have no block clearance issues. The issue with those adapters would be whether or not the front rollstop is now in the way. I'll bet it causes the turbo to hang quite low.

This turbo has the smaller hy35 turbine wheel (smaller than the hx35). But since you're using a better flowing holset housing (better than the bep housing), then you could get similar results to the bolton hx35. Glad you'll be running it to find out.

BTW the compressor is the 7blade revised hx40 pro compressor. It flows close to 70lb/min. I doubt the hotside will allow that much flow though :) . Supposedly the he351cw has a revised turbine housing to the hy35 that has better flow but with the same a/r.

Ok cool. I just wasnt sure if it was going to work at all. One more question. Since im going to be externally gated. What should I do about the actuator??? DO i weld it shut? DO i completely remove it?
 
Here is the turbo. I like that the exhaust housing is very small

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Ok cool. I just wasnt sure if it was going to work at all. One more question. Since im going to be externally gated. What should I do about the actuator??? DO i weld it shut? DO i completely remove it?

You, a welder, craftmanship and money will be the factors of whether or not this turbo will fit and work.:tease:
Im assuming you'll be running the wastegate off of the manifold or the pictured adapter flange. In that case you will need to weld the wastegate flapper shut.
It appears unless you are running a pretty sharp turning v-band pipe exiting the turbine you may need to relocate the alternator.:confused:
 
You, a welder, craftmanship and money will be the factors of whether or not this turbo will fit and work.:tease:
Im assuming you'll be running the wastegate off of the manifold or the pictured adapter flange. In that case you will need to weld the wastegate flapper shut.
It appears unless you are running a pretty sharp turning v-band pipe exiting the turbine you may need to relocate the alternator.:confused:

Well ill have to get someone to weld/tach weld the flapper shut. I personally do not know how to weld :confused:
Yeah i have noticed the sharp turn also. Ill figure that out soon hopefully. Im not exactly sure how im going to deal with that.
 
Well ill have to get someone to weld/tach weld the flapper shut. I personally do not know how to weld :confused:
Yeah i have noticed the sharp turn also. Ill figure that out soon hopefully. Im not exactly sure how im going to deal with that.

Jayracing makes an alternator relocation kit but thats if you dont have ac compressor or remove it.
I actually dont know/still suck at welding but recently purchased a cheap welder so i can improve as well as do the little jobs like that
 
Jayracing makes an alternator relocation kit but thats if you dont have ac compressor or remove it.
I actually dont know/still suck at welding but recently purchased a cheap welder so i can improve as well as do the little jobs like that

Yeah I may end up doing that. we will see what happens.
 
Rather than weld the flapper shut, why not just take the vaccum diaphram off and use a bolt it's place?Tie the flapper lever to the flange that's cast into the compressor housing. Leaves less chance to cause cracking in the housing due to welding and should you decide to sell it, it's not hacked.

There is no BEP housing that fits the HE series turbos. I contacted Bullseye back in 04-05 about getting one made, even shipping them my HE turbo, only to receive it back and told they wouldn't be pursuing it. Contacted them again this past year twice, and again, they don't care which is sad.
 
Yeah im getting a 38mm tial wastegate and a ported 2g manifold already flanged with a wastegate for a good deal. But ill still need to purchase the adapter to make it t3.
 
There is no BEP housing that fits the HE series turbos. I contacted Bullseye back in 04-05 about getting one made, even shipping them my HE turbo, only to receive it back and told they wouldn't be pursuing it. Contacted them again this past year twice, and again, they don't care which is sad.

Yeah it kinda sucks that they dont make one but oh well. The only reason I wanted one was so I didnt have to get a custom v-band exhaust made. But I see thats not going to happen so I hope this downpipe goes well.
 
I have a hy35, I try'd the flat adapter plate and the exhaust housing wouldnt clear the block. So I made a 2 flanged adapter like your pic but I used a 45' instead of straight down to clear the block. this would have worked but that extra distance put the compressor into the motor mount. So after several cut and retacks.. I finally got it to fit.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


On a side note, you can fit it backwards and use a external waste gate and mabye a maft set-up and it would work perfect with a plate adapter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I know yours isnt a hy35 like mine but it looks like you will have the same problems.
 
Hmm you make a good point. I just got finished reading you thread.

What do you guys think of this. Im already getting the ported 2g manifold with the wastegate flange on one of the runners.

So I think I will use 1 or 2 1/2" spacers for the manifold. And I will still puchase the tdo5 to t3 adapter. With this combo I think it should clear the water pipe and the block hopefully :pray:
 
With all the adapters, your just lookin for leaks. you could try it and people have without problems.You would have the same success with an ebay t3 header. Cut the t3 flange off and have it welded back on on a slight angle. Or check out my old saturn website and search for a turbo manifold from them, The 95 and up 1.9l manifolds are 9 bolts and share a dsm's flange patern. sixthsphere.com
 
Well im thinking if i can find a flange that is 1" thick than that should work. And this would minimize the leaks. The problem is that I cant find one LOL.

Oh and I really dont want to spend money on another manifold
 
I'm leaning more for the reversed install in my second pic. You have the 90' bend in your compressor housing, which will point your IC pipe striaght out the side of the engine bay. Mine pointed down, and that is what turned me off, cause I had no room for IC pipes. Plus reversed will give you plenty of room to make a custom downpipe, The stock hlset wastegate did fit too when I had mine on reversed. The intake path I used worked , I got everything from the junk yard, it put my stock mas in my bumper.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I'm leaning more for the reversed install in my second pic. You have the 90' bend in your compressor housing, which will point your IC pipe striaght out the side of the engine bay. Mine pointed down, and that is what turned me off, cause I had no room for IC pipes. Plus reversed will give you plenty of room to make a custom downpipe, The stock hlset wastegate did fit too when I had mine on reversed. The intake path I used worked , I got everything from the junk yard, it put my stock mas in my bumper.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So when it is reversed there is no hitting the block at all???
 
Oh, sorry, you will have to relocate the alternator but you were doing that anyway. No it dosent even come close to the block. You will come close to the rad, and will not be able to use the stock fan either. I assume you cant test fit anything cause you still running the little turbo eh? Since you will have to spend lots of down time designing and fitting a down pipe, you will have time to try differant positions for the turbo.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top