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holes in HLA journals in head

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kinda-stock

Proven Member
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Jun 4, 2016
jefferson, Louisiana
Been having this head for a while and even had my 1mm over size Crower valvetrain installed in it. Fast forward to present; i am assembling the engine and notice a couple of issues. 1. Grooves in Cam Journals
2. incorrect cam caps
3. a whole in the HLA housing port.

yes caps can be line honed but will this hole in the HLA housing cause a problem?
 

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The housing for the lifter looks fine. Be sure to prime your new lifter and slide her in.

Personally I would just clean that journal with some oil and steel wool. The picture makes it look like it is just dirty or a bit of surface rust. (Or my resolution on this computer is crap)

You say incorrect cam caps, do you mean they are not for that head or they are just in the wrong order?
 
wrong cam caps. this ebay head came with caps that have L engraved on the caps for the intake side and R engraved on the exhaust side
 
Some of them are labeled that way, have you measured the bores?

Also, never prime lifters. Pumping them up with oil will lead to bent valves as soon as you turn it over. Those rusty valve springs need replaced as well.

From the pictures it looks like you already bolted that dirty rusty head to a block. It needs pulled off, cleaned, and gone over.
 
Some of them are labeled that way, have you measured the bores?

Also, never prime lifters. Pumping them up with oil will lead to bent valves as soon as you turn it over. Those rusty valve springs need replaced as well.

From the pictures it looks like you already bolted that dirty rusty head to a block. It needs pulled off, cleaned, and gone over.

Why don't you prime lifters vs any other engine?
 
the valve springs just have lite surface rust which can easily be wiped off. i guess only way to truly see if these are indeed the wrong caps are to put the cams in torque them and see if the spin freely.

I know these arent caps for this head because the casting is not the same as a spare set of cam caps from another 6bolt. Plus, the cap closest to the cam sprockets both say "I" for intake. That cant be correct, or can it?
 
Some caps are I and e, and some are l, and r.


The reason you don't pump up the lifters is simple. Take a lifter, submerge it in oil, using a thin wire through the hole depress the valve. Now pump the lifter full of oil. Install the lifter in a head. Now when you install a cam at no time will that valve close. It's easy to see on a head that's on a bench.

The lash adjusters are there so we don't need to check and adjust valve lash. Pumping them full of oil puts them at the end of their positive travel. You want there to be lash when you install them. Then what happens is that it elongates and takes up all the lash. As the valve and seat wear any additional lash will result in the lash adjuster getting taller.

Pumping them up before install is the same thing as randomly throwing the largest shims you can get into a shin under bucket setup.
 
+1 ^^^
Donnie knows exactly what he is talking about. I bent 6 valves because I pumped my lifters up and did not bleed them like he says. If primed and not bled out, they will hold the valves open all of the time because liquids don't compress and even turning the motor over by hand will make them kiss the piston or another valve like happened to me. I also agree about the rusty valve springs. Those are just waiting to fatigue and let a valve drop then you have a large problem. It may just be the picture, but surface pitting on a hot spring is not a good thing to have. I had it on a valve in a SBC once and that valve snapped right at the rust point and the engine ingested it, tearing a very large hole in the piston. Just my experiences.
 
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