high psi on tdo4hl

[cavyracer666]

So while getting slammed by hurricane Irene got bored and ported and polished the hot side of my Tdo4hl / 13 g/b/?. now I have boost creep higher than my 30 psi glowshift boost gauge will go at 4000 rpm!!! Was at about 22 psi before. From what I have read I found that X psi on a small turbo like mine is not the same as X psi on a larger turbo such as a E316 but is it just as dangerous if not more? Should I try and eliminate this problem by porting the wastegate hole. Or should i just upgrade to a 14b and port and polish that as well as porting the wastegate hole? Would getting a fmic make the boost at such high psi safer as I was reading earlier that X psi on a smaller turbo would be alot hotter than X psi on larger turbo? have read several forumsLooking for sugestions and opinions on what my next step should be. Thanks in advanced.

 

[DOHCTA]

Try porting the WG hole. It should solve that issue NP!

 

[cavyracer666]

i'll probably do that to the 14b that i bought for $50 I was going to use the hot side from the 13 ### it wasn't AS cracked so i worked on that for half a day on and off.then i asked my boy if he could tell the difference between the two turbos when i had them side by side and he made me feel dumber than a fifth grader when he pointed out the size difference in the CHRA. So i figured i would finish the P&P job on the 13 and play with the 14 while I have it off the car and still drive my car, well atleast at half. Real question is how bad is 30 psi on a 13 compared to 15 psi on a big 16G or 20G. what makes it safer too run such high psi. also what does fuel cut feel like? is it similar too taking a hard corner and having all the fuel run too one side of the fuel tank and starve the fuel pump?

 

[brian9397gsx]

Problem is all the heat generated by it, your way outta that compressors efficiency range

 

[agentorange313]

From what I have read I found that X psi on a small turbo like mine is not the same as X psi on a larger turbo such as a E316 but is it just as dangerous if not more?

Your are right, this is due to the different compressor used on different turbo models. It is potentially hazardous if you have a small turbo running high boost, it could be flowing more than a larger turbo a t lower psi.

Should I try and eliminate this problem by porting the wastegate hole.

Yes, this is one of the best way to eliminate boost creep:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...oler/186525-how-cure-boost-creep-porting.html

Or should i just upgrade to a 14b and port and polish that as well as porting the wastegate hole?

The 14b would be a great upgrade, the best part would be the larger hotside housing. Even though it is a stock 6cm it will flow much more than the 13g. The 13g is also a td04 turbo and will not mat with a td05 housing. So the 14b will not bolt on to the 13g housing. You will need a hotside for the 14b to be ran. So since you dont have it on your car yet, you can spend this time porting the 14b hotside, whether it be a 6cm or a 7cm housing.

Would getting a fmic make the boost at such high psi safer as I was reading earlier that X psi on a smaller turbo would be alot hotter than X psi on larger turbo?

A larger intercooler will always help with reducing inlet temps, the problem is finding a intercooler of quality and proper size in comparisons to the turbo. There is no need to run a 4 inch core thats 12 inches high with a 14b, a ETS street kit with a 3 inch core thats 7 inches high would better suit.

goodluck

 

[agarc023]

Was at about 22 psi before.

WTFWTF

With no fuel mods?

 

[JusMX141]

Check to make sure your wastegate actuator is even functional. Something doesn't seem right with this considering the size of the turbine wheel of a 13G/T is not much larger than a 50-cent piece. I just can't see that small of a turbine allowing enough flow for any internal gate to not function properly.

 

[SBstar]

I'd check your gauge as well. A 13g even with the wastegate line disconnected shouldn't be able to make 30 psi.

The problems inherent with running a turbo past it's efficiency range are the increased heat and the guarantee that the turbo will fail eventually. I've seen plenty of turbine wheels go rolling out of the exhaust from pushing a turbo too hard (usually these small ones).

Also if you have no other modifications you're probably going to run into knock which will eventually destroy your engine.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I hit 22 psi on a 13g once with no fuel cut..The problem is compressor efficiancy, and heat..

After 22psi that little 13g took a dump...20 psi on a 13g, and 12psi on a 16g are too waay different things..Even 20 psi on a 13g, and 14 psi on a 14b are two different things..

Take thee guys advince and just run the 14g..I would suggest a 2g manifold or manual manifold to go with the 14b.. the auto manifold is waay too small for larger than a 13g turbo..

 

[cavyracer666]

WTFWTF

With no fuel mods?

None as far as i know just bought car in june only know what i can see. factory black top injectors? i think 450cc

Check to make sure your wastegate actuator is even functional. Something doesn't seem right with this considering the size of the turbine wheel of a 13G/T is not much larger than a 50-cent piece. I just can't see that small of a turbine allowing enough flow for any internal gate to not function properly.

Actuator seemed stiff when i had it apart but seems like boost hiccups then rises even faster at about 12 psi

I'd check your gauge as well. A 13g even with the wastegate line disconnected shouldn't be able to make 30 psi.

The problems inherent with running a turbo past it's efficiency range are the increased heat and the guarantee that the turbo will fail eventually. I've seen plenty of turbine wheels go rolling out of the exhaust from pushing a turbo too hard (usually these small ones).

Also if you have no other modifications you're probably going to run into knock which will eventually destroy your engine.

New gauge worked fine scince I bought hooked up to throttle body. tried it a fpr line no diff. will take video later and post

I hit 22 psi on a 13g once with no fuel cut..The problem is compressor efficiancy, and heat..

After 22psi that little 13g took a dump...20 psi on a 13g, and 12psi on a 16g are too waay different things..Even 20 psi on a 13g, and 14 psi on a 14b are two different things..

Take thee guys advince and just run the 14g..I would suggest a 2g manifold or manual manifold to go with the 14b.. the auto manifold is waay too small for larger than a 13g turbo..

Is there anyway to tell difference between auto and manual manifold. im gonna port and polish it toobut they both look the same to me. I think its an 2G awd tsi manifold though ### it looks like the guy who owned the car before me bought a complete engine/awd trans combo from japan.

Ok soooo. Rigged the wastegate open and drove it around max psi stayed steady at 15 psi. Came back put it right again super boost again. Took off HDR MBC used a butt connector to connect the two hoses. drove it around and max psi was 12 to 15 psi. came back thought checkball in HDR MBC had melted chose rubber ball instead of steel but took adjuster bolt all the way out and blew in and out and eerything moved fine. put it back on and super boost again so i'm thinking I need a lower strength spring. oh by the way I hit fuel cut above 30 psi. Know I shouldn't have but i had to try it at least once.

 

[T-mun]

i'll do what justin suggest, test the actuato. Apply air pressure to the actuator and see if it is moving, if its not then find a replacement.. becareful not to over pressure it tho.

Btw, a manual exhaust manifold for the TD05 (where the manifold & turbo mate up) have a big hole in the center (i never measure the size tho), while an auto for the TD04 is smaller hole and slightly offset to the side.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The auto to maual manifold are visually diffferent is a couple very visual areas..The part where the turbo and manifold mate up is alot larger on the manual manufold....Also the runners on the manifold itself are visually larger on the auto vs manual manifold..And then the 2g manifold allows for even more flow..I would post the pics side by side but I have already used the picture in another thread..

But I can tell you with extreme cetainty that the manual is larger, and the 2g is even larger yet..

If you have a 2g manifold look for a flat bar on the right side of the top of the manifold..That will tell you if it's a 2g manifold or not..The evo3 also has the same flat spot on the manifold..

 

[cavyracer666]

sooo thanx to all that replied. The issue turned out too be my MBC.It had too strong of a spring in it so basically it wasnt letting the wastgate actuator move at all, now it works fine. Another thing that can cause this is if the hose going to the MBC. Have it set aroud 15 psi. Some fluctuation, think this is the 1G blow off valve gonna crush it and hopefully this fixes it. Thanx for all the help.

 

[JusMX141]

You're better to do the Dodge Garage Mod to your 1G valve than you are to crush it.

Crushing is a quick solution which makes the spring stiffer when in reality the spring tension is just fine- what you need to do is deactivate the quick-release chamber on the valve if you want it to hold more boost.