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High idle, no mad , gauges broke/dont work

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TR4CTION92

Probationary Member
14
0
Jul 1, 2013
Winchester, Virginia
So, I just bought a 1992 Plymouth Laser. The guy told me that he did a Talon TSI swap. I got home, and when I started the car it idled at 500-600 rpm and kept stalling. I noticed a wire was loose at the top of the throttle body. I put it back on and no change. The pipe/tube that has the bov on it was loose so I tightened the clamp and still nothing changed. I noticed the car has no filter or tubing on the turbo inlet which means no MAF. There aren't any wires for a MAF that i see. So, I took it for a drive. I noticed that neither the speedometer, temp, oil pressure, boost, or fuel gauges work. First time I took it out, it drove somewhat alright after rpms picked up. Whenever I got back, turned it off and back on it idles now at 2k or more. When I rev it up at a stop it wont go over 4k rpm's. When I drive it, it bucks and bogs when accelerating unless in a higher gear. I noticed 4 vacuum ports on top of TB are crossed into one another. There is a spot for a hose on the valve cover that is open, and another behind the motor. The guy also wired the fan to a toggle switch. Any advice on where to start would be greatly appreciated.
 
Are there any somewhat easy to understand diagrams floating around that u could post the link to?
 
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I would start out by checking for a boost leak and vacuum hoses. Also, check to make sure all your fluids are topped off and get an oil pressure gauge to make sure you have pressure. Don't want to be driving around without any as that will get expensive real quick. Check the VFAQ section for a step by step on what to do your car to make sure it's safe to drive. Good luck!
 
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I would start out by checking for a boost leak and vacuum hoses. Also, check to make sure all your fluids are topped off and get an oil pressure gauge to make sure you have pressure. Don't want to be driving around without any as that will get expensive real quick. Check the VFAQ section for a step by step on what to do your car to make sure it's safe to drive. Good luck!

Is the fact that it doesnt have a maf or wires a big prolem? Or can I just run a filter on the end of the turbo
 
Yes, unless you have a tuning system like DSMLink, you absolutely need a MAF sensor.
 
Not having a MAF is a huge problem. That is how your ecu gets the information of how much airflow your seeing in order to adjust the fuel. Not having one will make your car run horrible or maybe not even run at all. Unless your running speed density you must absolutely have some sort of MAF wether it be the factory one or a GM MAF. Start by posting a picture of what your seeing. This could point out a few obvious things like the MAF issue. I would also pick up a Chilton's manual for your car. Is your check engine light on? This could also help speed up the process in determining what the issue may be.
 
Ouch! Hopefully you got this thing free or cheap! Your going to need to put a maf on the car...that's the large plug you have pictured..I believe that's your egr valve unhooked and make sure the clamps on all the intercooler piping is tight...the open port on the valve cover is a crankcase breather which should be routed to the turbo intake pipe(what your maf should be connected to) and also sounds like your gauge cluster is bad or unhooked
 
Okay, I found MAF, but I'm having a hard time finding a intake pipe. Any advice on where to find one?
 
Now. You said the egr valve in the back was unhooked..? What should that be hooked to? Just got a MAF, filter housing, alternator, and cluster for $80. I just hope its good.
 
Well, I went to a junkyard and picked up a maf, intake pipe, cluster, and alternator for $80. Turned it over and took forever to start. When it finally started it ran super rough. I took it for a spin and at first it wanted to buck and bog even at low speeds. As it ran longer it would be rough and slow at takeoff, but when the rpms got up a little bit it would pull pretty good. When I pulled back in the driveway and stopped it idled at 2k rpms. Still don't know where those two vacuum ports on what you guys called the egr valve run to. I do know that when I hook the big hose from intake to bypass valve or "bov", the car wants to idle even higher... Thoughts?? I still need alot of help with my vacuum situation. Having a hard time understanding the diagrams.
 
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Found holes in the intercooler inlet, and it was smashed up a bit. Could this be a big issue at idle?

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Read codes and I believe it shows codes 13, 21, and 31. Any of these lead to my problem? Maybe hard start cause of temp sensor?
 
I don't understand how my oxygen sensor wires are cut, but the code didn't come up. How would that happen? And where is the connector located that the oxygen sensor wires run to?
 
Although I think I still have vacuum/boost leaks, my problem ended up being the closed throttle switch being screwed in too far and holding the throttle plate. Thanks for all the help
 
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