CanMan
10+ Year Contributor
- 83
- 0
- Dec 20, 2010
-
Auburn,
Washington
Quick recap: Reciently replaced my stock intake manifold and TB with a non EGR intake manifold and a 1G throttle body. FIAV has been blocked off as well, with JB weld. Rebuilt the TB with MIL.SPEC seals, new OEM FIAV gasket, new OEM TB gaskets, new ISC o-ring. Replaced the intake manifold gasket with an OEM one as well. New BISS o-ring. The manifold has been ported to match the intake gasket. Also replaced the plugs with NGK BRP7ES. Nothing else major was changed except for the TB and intake manifold.
I have done a BLT with good results, no leaks. Ive set the TPS at 0 ohms with a .0175(closest I could get with the feeler gauges I have) shim under the throttle stop. I have also tested the ISC for resistance at the coils, and there is only a difference of .3 between them. The MDP is gone(no boss for it on the intake manifold). I have also swapped out the MAF for a known good one and seemed to help some until I took it on a test drive and the idle went back up. Have checked the pins to see if any were bent/depressed but look good. BISS is screwed in all the way, any unscrewing of it will make the idle higher.
Idle starts off around 1150 RPM's and slowlly climbs to around 1400-1500 as engine temperature rises. When I swapped the MAF, idle went down to 950ish, but kept cutting out momentarly for a split second and would drop to around 800, stumble, then right back up to 1150 or so, then come back down to around 950 and run crappy.
Only code I'm getting is a P0141 for the rear O2 sensor(its been on for 9 months). No MDP code, no MAF code, no other codes. Battery has been out so codes have been cleared, but decent mileage(25 or so) have been put on the car since the battery was out.
At this point I'm stumped on what it could be(without taking it to a shop). Knock sensor? Crank/Cam sensors take a $h!t when they got unplugged?
Car is stock other than what is listed in my profile. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have done a BLT with good results, no leaks. Ive set the TPS at 0 ohms with a .0175(closest I could get with the feeler gauges I have) shim under the throttle stop. I have also tested the ISC for resistance at the coils, and there is only a difference of .3 between them. The MDP is gone(no boss for it on the intake manifold). I have also swapped out the MAF for a known good one and seemed to help some until I took it on a test drive and the idle went back up. Have checked the pins to see if any were bent/depressed but look good. BISS is screwed in all the way, any unscrewing of it will make the idle higher.
Idle starts off around 1150 RPM's and slowlly climbs to around 1400-1500 as engine temperature rises. When I swapped the MAF, idle went down to 950ish, but kept cutting out momentarly for a split second and would drop to around 800, stumble, then right back up to 1150 or so, then come back down to around 950 and run crappy.
Only code I'm getting is a P0141 for the rear O2 sensor(its been on for 9 months). No MDP code, no MAF code, no other codes. Battery has been out so codes have been cleared, but decent mileage(25 or so) have been put on the car since the battery was out.
At this point I'm stumped on what it could be(without taking it to a shop). Knock sensor? Crank/Cam sensors take a $h!t when they got unplugged?
Car is stock other than what is listed in my profile. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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