HG in a bottle?

[bcjjones]

Have bad compression in three cylinders. Recent valve job, after discussing the symptoms on here, other people and I are leaning toward a blown head gasket. Trying to figure out id its worth fixing or just selling it because it is a n/t. If its just the HG then ill want to fix it but would hate to tear it all down to find out its something more pricey. What dovyall think about using that HG in a bottle you can get from the autoparts store just as a method to verify that is the problem? I know it would be a very temporary fix but I really just want to make sure that is my problem. Any thoughts?

 

[ed1380]

I wouldn't even waste my money on it. A headgasket is $30 and few hours of work.

 

[LiquidX]

Do a leak down test to show you or narrow down where the pressure is being lost at. I would not use any sort of product like that. Either do it the correct way and fix it properly or not.

 

[JusMX141]

Stuff's junk. Temporary head gasket fix resulting in permanent radiator and heater core clogs.

 

[bcjjones]

Would a leak down check work for a blown heasgasket?

Now that were talking about it though, what psi would I use?

And where would I get the tool used to blow the air into the cylinders?

 

[BogusSVO]

A leakdown tester is about $50 from harbor freight. If you plan on working on cars for a hobby it is a wise investment, and a great tool to have.

You will need an air compressor, a small one will be fine for a leak down test.

 

[LiquidX]

Would a leak down check work for a blown heasgasket?

Now that were talking about it though, what psi would I use?

The leak down tester works by pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air from the air compressor. Any bad seals or holes will leak the pressurized air and all it takes is determining where the air is leaking out to.

Just follow the directions with the tester. Since you didn't say what compression numbers you were getting, that number would be the most needed to find the problem since it's already leaking at or before x psi.

 

[Boostinsideways]

Complete junk. But its more than just 30$ for a diy headgasket change. You need head bolts too. And probably a valve cover gasket. Oil, coolant, high tack sealer/copper spray.

Oh and if your in there anyways, might be time to replace the timing belt, and tensioner.

 

[bcjjones]

Yea I've read over a generic how to of a leakdown check. Just wasnt sure what PSI to use or if it matters? And I guess if the HG is the only problem then it will just leak out around the gasket? Because I know about it coming out the intake or exhaust and those being the problem valves Accordingly. Not sure about the gasket though.

And I do have to remove the cams correct? To set all the valves closed

 

[ed1380]

Complete junk. But its more than just 30$ for a diy headgasket change. You need head bolts too. And probably a valve cover gasket. Oil, coolant, high tack sealer/copper spray.

Oh and if your in there anyways, might be time to replace the timing belt, and tensioner.

You can reuse head bolts, and spare me the "you must replace them" talk. I know that's the "proper" method, but if the OP is in a financial squeeze it'll work fine. I've never had problems with reusing TTY bolts.

Don't completely remove the cams, just loosen the caps and take out the rockers.

 

[bcjjones]

I've read a couple bad things about the harbor freight one, anyone own one personally?

Yea I've re used head bolts a couple times also onthe my pickups, never had a problem.

 

[Calan]

Yea I've read over a generic how to of a leakdown check. Just wasnt sure what PSI to use or if it matters? And I guess if the HG is the only problem then it will just leak out around the gasket? Because I know about it coming out the intake or exhaust and those being the problem valves Accordingly. Not sure about the gasket though.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

And I do have to remove the cams correct? To set all the valves closed

You don't have to pull the cams, but you may have to remove one or two pairs of rockers depending on how much valve overlap you have. I usually pop off the rockers on #4 just to make sure I have all the valves properly sealed, but I have quite a bit of valve overlap with the FP2's also.

You can reuse head bolts, and spare me the "you must replace them" talk. I know that's the "proper" method, but if the OP is in a financial squeeze it'll work fine. I've never had problems with reusing TTY bolts.

You can reuse the 1G bolts if they are still within spec, but not the 2G's. You should NEVER resuse a torque-to-yield fastener. By design, they have failed (stretched) once properly torqued.

 

[Sleeper1gfwd]

If you're lazy Moroso ceramic seal for headgasket
If not then do the leak down test and fix whatever issue you find, let us know what you find

 

[bcjjones]

What is moroso ceramic seal?

 

[bryanwheat]

What is moroso ceramic seal?

A google search will tell you real quick what it is. It is a head gasket in a can product. I you understand what the head gasket is made of and what it is doing than you will understand why these products are junk. When a head gasket is blown there is a piece of the gasket material missing. This liquid that is mixed in with coolant isn't going to completely make up for this missing piece o material.

 

[Calan]

This liquid that is mixed in with coolant isn't going to completely make up for this missing piece o material.

But it will most likely ruin your water pump and other parts of your cooling system eventually.

If your head gasket is shot, replace it.

 

[bcjjones]

So, beleive it or not, my buddy I work with was correct. I bought this car recently, and the guy had all the paperwork with all the work done on it. Including all new valves being machined in. When I got it the a/c would always cause the car to die. New IAC valve, no vacuum leaks so I figured the compressor was just freezing up. That was the ONLY thing that would make the car loose rpms and die. It wouldnt pass the emissions test so I did a tune up, and ran some seafoam threw the vacuum lines and the gas tank. After running it all out, it passed with flying colors. I had a can of seafoam left so when I got home, i just figured id run the rest threw the vacuum line and gas tank. After running all the out the car started to idle real bad, had a real bad miss to it. Couldnt figure out why. My buddy I work with said, maybe a piece of carbon has gotten knocked loose from the seafoam and stuck on a few of the valves causing them not to close properly. Thought that idea was pretty far fetched, along with most of the users on here and my mechanic buddy that own an automotive shop. No one really thought it was possible. It had an exhaust leak so I took it to the buddy that owns the shop, he noticed the miss and decided to do a compression test. One cylinder was 150 and the other three were like 32 30 and 29. Horrible horrible results. Figured it was probably a botched valve job, and so did he. He checked the timing also, and that was dead on. He put the car all back together for me. So before doing what yall suggested, and what he suggested. I decided today to just run another can of seafom threw it, just to see what happened. Put the whole can threw the brake booster hose, a 3rd of the can at a time. Each time just romping on the gas pourin white smoke out like you wouldnt beleive. NOW, car idles fine again, doesnt die with any extra load like it did before. EVEN runs with the a/c on now. I guess the compression was so low that the a/c was just way to much extra load on the engine, causing it to die. Now has anyone ever heard of the kinda crap?? I mean it was a loooooooong shot, but beleive it or not it actually worked. Car runs like a champ now, idles perfect.

I thought it was weird how when i first bought it, it idled perftect except when the a/c compressor would kick in, the car would die. But only the a/c. And after the seafoam treatment, the car would die with any kind of extra load, even the seatbelt moving back and forth when the door was opened and closed would cause the car to loose rpms drastically and even kill it. Lights on, cooling fans coming on, anything would greatly effect the car at idle. It wasnt like that when i first bought it though. Now after the last treatment, it idles like a champ. Nothing, not even the a/c, causes the car to die. Shit is crazy!!

 

[Strobe]

Thats awesome, glad it worked out for you, have you done compression test now to see what its at?