The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

HG blow out, warped head/ block????

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KUBAN

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 4, 2005
oak creek, Wisconsin
Ok i had just got my tsi running, it was a friends and he messed it up in a ditch. Its a 91 Tsi with a small 16g, hard upper piping, walbro 255, and a n1 open dp. Well my friends were being assholes one day and decided to mess with my boost controller :nono: . I ended up running 19-20 psi on stock hg and head studs. Well mid race against a friend and my hg blew, and i mean it blew. I saw my friend just pull 6 cars on me in a second and i looked back and i was filling the streets with coolant mist. So i drove it home and just barely made it about 3 miles. I took a look at the motor and relalized that when the hg blew it presurized my cooling system and it literally blew up a few lines, like the thermostat line and the oil cooler coolant feed line. Thats what i think happened, but my question is do you think the head is warped or what about the block? I have another block/head i can use but i really dont want to do that. And i dont exactly know where i can get it decked and checked around here, so what i plan on doing is just getting a mitsu 4 layer and 'arps' and ill run around 18-19 psi. I also noticed that i run rich-to stoich at that much boost even with stock injectors, thats a thrill to me :thumb:
 
KUBAN said:
getting a mitsu 4 layer and 'arps' and ill run around 18-19 psi. I also noticed that i run rich-to stoich at that much boost even with stock injectors, thats a thrill to me :thumb:

This will cause you to blow your new headgasket as well. I'm assuming you are getting your 'rich-to-stoich' readings from your a/f gauge. Ignore that. You were probably getting crazy knock that you can't see without a logger. High boost will not kill your headgasket, not enough fuel to feed that boost will though. You need to get a logger and start turning up your boost slowly until you reach the point where stock injectors / stock sidemount IC are your limitation.

As far as your current situation, plan on your head being warped for sure. It doesn't take a whole lot to warp aluminum. To find out how much, you should take it to a machine shop to see if it can be saved.

Our cast iron blocks are pretty durable so I'd assume it would be fine, but you should check it anyways.
 
Well i do have another head that had the timing belt snap of it, and the valves are a little bent up. Could i just take the valves out of mine and seat them into my head? The head is from the same kind of car and all, being a 91 tsi awd, only thing is the other head is automatic. U dont think ill have any problems do you?
 
Also if im running rich to stoich, thats good is it not? lean would be bad where you would get knock readings and detonation. Rich means there is enough fuel for the air does it not?
 
hes saying unless its a wideband o2 sensor your readings are probably wrong.... those narrowband o2 sensors are pretty worthless....
 
If the other head is auto, then you will also have to swap cams. Auto and manual have different cams. Also it seems your trying to do this half ass,is you do things half ass around here IT WILL BREAK. Now someone will post up saying my friends uncles sisters father is running 25psi on stock head gasket, and all he did was a lap job to the head. That info isn't very creditable.

Basically I'm saying to do it right and get the head decked, it's not that much. Also they can test to see if it has cracks for around 150 or so. Trust me if you say use the old valves from the other head with who knows how many miles and one snaps and hits a piston, your out way more than you would have been.

So do it right and do it once.

Also I know you probably don't have the money, but when you pull the head, it's a good idea to replace the t-belt, balance belt or remove balance shafts (recamended),idler pulley,tensioner pulley, water pump,and auto tensioner. The three most important parts to replace if thats all you can afford is the t-belt (mitu brand) water pump(mitu brand)and auto tensioner(mitu brand)

If you do decide to not replace anything and just lap your old valves, and you end up snapping the belt, or it smokes, or it doesn't run right, don't come in here later and say how unreliable ours cars are, because it's up to the owner, and thats what I will tell you.

Derek

Good luck anyway and hope you get it figured out, also I wouldn't use a metal headgasket unless the head and block are decked, and ARP's are your friend.
 
Im using the valves from my 109k mile motor which isnt bad for a 15yr old car. I cant afford to replace the valves while im at it. Look at the break down

Head gasket goes, well i guess that means warped head then
 
Im using the valves from my 109k mile motor which isnt bad for a 15yr old car. I cant afford to replace the valves while im at it. Look at the break down

Head gasket goes, well i guess that means warped head then

-head (100$~)
-head gasket (70-100 pending type)
-arp's (89$~)
-head deck + check (150$ pure labor charge)
-Timing belt (70$ but i can get it 'at cost' for like 20$ from mitsu)

The head i already have, this head doesnt need to be decked, all i need are the parts, and a valve job. BUT while im at it, i mine as well get it decked and hell port and polish it all at the shop, oh yea i work at a cnc machine shop :)
 
Ok this is where it's a little confusing. Why don't you have the head that overheated inspected. It may need a deck 50-60 at most, if the valves are ok, then why use another head thats true, but has bad valves.

It seems logical that the head with good valves would be fine with a decked head, as long as the valves are ok thats the important part. That right there is the cheapest way.

Derek
 
Ok i understand that, but where do i send the head to get it checked? And can i leave the cams and all the valves when they check it? Sorry for sounding completely nub here, when it comes to 240's im a god but when it comes to the new found dsm im a dam civic owner who cant figure out how to put his altezza's on :tease:
 
Just take it to a trusted local mechanic. Also when you are having it resurfaced, make sure you let them know that you are using a metal headgasket. Some shops assume your using a composite gasket and don't refinish the head to the degree a metal one requires.
 
you work at a cnc machine shop and you dont know how to check if a head is warped???
what do you do sweep the floors? LOL

take it to a machine shop dont say nobody down there does it otherwise take it up here by me i know alot of people that do it up here and im like 1 hour north of you....
 
Well i can check it and i will but once i get there, im kinda at a loss, what do they resurface them with. We have a resurfacing machine but it lacks the mobilitly to sweep its way completely across the head, and making sure it is 100% straight on the machine would be a crude way to think. :notgood:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top