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Help! Won't crank-photo clues

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Aquatone

Probationary Member
6
0
Jan 31, 2005
Wichita, Kansas
93 Eclipse DOHC non-turbo won't crank over at all.

Water pump replaced without replacing belt or tensioners.

While driving "it just died" never to start again.

What's wrong?

Possible fixes?

Worth fixing?

Thanks for your time, ideas, help, and suggestions.

Aquatone
 

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Well, my timing slipped 3 teeth once on both cams. And it wouldnt start at all. So I dont know if thats whats wrong but its an idea.

*edit* Forgot to mention my timing slipped because I had a massive oil leak that soaked the belt and tore some teeth off of it.
 
Looks like what happend to my 1g. Was driving along and it just died on me, wouldn't start. Towed it back to the shop, tore into everything, finally took the timing belt off, wasn't broken but it had 13 teeth missing. Luckily enough I only messed up the valves in one cylinder.
 
any more details?

U got power right?
Check the ground on the starter or hit it slightly with a hammer.
 
Alex_95TSI said:
any more details?

U got power right?
Check the ground on the starter or hit it slightly with a hammer.

Power. Yes.

It tries to turn over but runs into some resistance(valves on pistons??).

The car can be pushed in neutral.

H20 pump changed without changing belt or tensioners.

Aside from the belt teeth seperating from the belt the belt is also very slack.

Thanks for your interest and assitance(everyone).

Aquatone
 
DSM MAN said:
Well, my timing slipped 3 teeth once on both cams. And it wouldnt start at all. So I dont know if thats whats wrong but its an idea.

*edit* Forgot to mention my timing slipped because I had a massive oil leak that soaked the belt and tore some teeth off of it.

What was the damage in your case?

Bent valves?

Thanks,

Aquatone
 
It could be a lot of things, start with the basics, spark and fuel. When it happen to me it was the ecu. Good luck.
 
well you know the belt is shot... so start there... pull it.
Then you might as well pull the head. A Biatch I know, but it will give you a definitive answer.
But as one of those pics show, the timing marks on the cam sprockets are WAY OFF.

Actually looking at it more closer... prepare for valve murder... Those timing marks are a good 5-7 teeth off (exhaust retarted). Just pray you did not crack a piston...
 
Bostedquest said:
well you know the belt is shot... so start there... pull it.
Then you might as well pull the head. A Biatch I know, but it will give you a definitive answer.
But as one of those pics show, the timing marks on the cam sprockets are WAY OFF.

Actually looking at it more closer... prepare for valve murder... Those timing marks are a good 5-7 teeth off (exhaust retarted). Just pray you did not crack a piston...

Solid answer.

I suspect you are right (valve murder)

Can I do the "easier" head removal with non-impact tools?
Easier= with intake and exhaust maniifolds left on?
 
Aquatone said:
Solid answer.

I suspect you are right (valve murder)

Can I do the "easier" head removal with non-impact tools?
Easier= with intake and exhaust maniifolds left on?

the head is really easy to remove as soon as u get everything disconnected...as in throttle body lines, fuel injectors, plugs/wires, thermostat, turbo line(if u have it) and every thing basically...then remove valve cover...u might want to have a big cheater bar with a non impact wrench...i did mine with out one too...but i had to use a lot of strength to get the head bolts out.

edit: and u can leave the manifolds on...might be easier ..just be sure to get the intake bolts in the back and disconnect the manifold from turbo(or whatever na have) its a lot heavier this way to...but makes things go much smoother when putting things back together
 
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