Help with 1G/EVO8 ecu/tuning issues.

[enash99]

As is says, I have a 92 TSI with an Auto. The car runs good. I do not have any mechnical problems. But I just can seem to get this thing tuned correctly. I thought it was a good idea to keep my car mostly stock and get it tuned and running right on the evo ecu. My setup is as follows. 14b turbo, 2.5 inch downpipe that is catless, with a 3 inch catback exhaust. Standard intake, Maft tuner with a GM sensor after the HKS BOV. Punishment racing short route FMIC 2.5inch piping. batt is relocated to the trunk. I have a UEGO WB02 sensor. Stock 6bolt with 5k miles, and a new head with 500 miles.
So my problem is with my manuel boost controller i was getting knock and timing being pulled due to PTB. Being on the highway in OD giving it gas to pass a car and my A/f would stay aroud 14.7 and boost would creep to 10 PSI instantly. causing knock. I also have a problem where when i try to start the car when its warm it stumbles, runs leam and untill I drive it down the street it sometimes wouldnt stay running. But Cold starts are instant and strong. Smooth idle with A/Fr's hunting between 14.7 and 15. when its hot I am at 17.0A/F or leaner. I have been trying to get this right and cant. wil someone be able to help? I use ECU flash and I am running the Tephra V7 9653 rom. I am posting my rom for anyone that can take a look at it and see what Its doing. I just removed the MBC for the stock soleniod. I was using the MBC because i had yet to figuer out how to tune my Boost settings correctly. I am still learning this car, its my first DSM. I have experience tuning and building Subies, and 2jzGE and GTE motors. But this is my first attempt at tuning a DSM. So most of the tables in the map are greek to me. I have EVOscan for logging via OBDII. i have done tones of searching and even viewing threads with posted timing and fuel tables. Non of which seem to work. If someone could possibly look a my map and either make some changes or give me advice on how to resolve this. I will get a log up later today. Since I have the EVO ecu, i can not log my actual Intake manifold pressure, or A/F. My UEGO is being used to simulate the narrow band O2 since I put it in the stock Front O2 sensor location.

Note* to get the car to respond with average A/F readings, I had to at times dip below 10 in my map just to get it to be in the 11'2 range. I was used to setting my knock correction (multiplyer) at 10 and logging that, If i noticed it drop below 10 in the logs then I was pulling timing. This map is greek and Imnot sure have have it setup correctly at all. I want to have the stock soleniod control boost till I get a good one. I only want to run18-20PSI of boost. And im getting frustrated with evo scan as well. I can't just monitor with out creating a log. I just want to watch in realtime the data and monitor it.


Ty for any help.

 

[williillii]

At a glance, I would say that your MAF Compensation tables are screwed. Ive never used a GM MAF. But my values are way different for the 2g MAF and the point of the GM is to mimic the signal of the 2g right? I would switch to a 2g MAFS to get a good easy base tune on it. The MAFT is set at 0% correction right?

Also, Im not sure whats going on with your timing but it does not look right at all. I would not do any more pulls till you get this sorted out.

See in row #38 ... where you go WOT...the timing should dip to around 10 degrees right there then increase towards redline.. Yours is already at 20 degrees at like 3000rpm. It fluctuates like crazy to redline. Timing should decrease with more load, and increase with more revs.

As for the warm start problems. Warm the o2 sensor up before starting the car. Then pay attention to what your AFR is doing while the car is doin its thing. There is a table called MAF compensation vs. coolant temp. You can add or subtract fuel on start up/warm up with this table. There is another table specifically for cranking but I dont remember what it is off hand.

Ive attached a log of a second and third gear pull from my car. Not the cleanest pull due to wheelspin but itll give you an idea...see right where I hit WOT (my TPS only reads 98%) my timing dips real low then climbs back by redline? My timing values are less than yours due to the 2.4L motor....but it should definitely not be 20* advance at the onset of boost. (BTW ignore the 36 counts of knock after the pull, thats my lifters throwing a shitfit since they know theyre about to be yanked out )

You've got some reading to do...good luck.

 

[enash99]

See in row #38 ... where you go WOT...the timing should dip to around 10 degrees right there then increase towards redline.. Yours is already at 20 degrees at like 3000rpm. It fluctuates like crazy to redline. Timing should decrease with more load, and increase with more revs.

Thank You for the Reply, I agree the timing is WAY out of whack. I tune 13* of timing at the onset of boost. For some reason its not doing this. Could you tell me what tables set the base knock timing degrees. From what I am used to and tell me if I am wrong here. But with my STI, I had a knock multiplier table that I was able to set at a 10* of timing, and in the main timing table set 3* of timing at the onset of boost to equal 13*, I have no idea where to set this. What tables should I adjust to begin to get this corrected. Seems my research and attempts have be beating my head against the wall.

At a glance, I would say that your MAF Compensation tables are screwed. Ive never used a GM MAF. But my values are way different for the 2g MAF and the point of the GM is to mimic the signal of the 2g right? I would switch to a 2g MAFS to get a good easy base tune on it. The MAFT is set at 0% correction right?

My MAFT translator is zero'ed out. I do still have my 2G MAF in the car but its not connected. Maft is hardwired in. I only have the 2G MAF there so that I have a filtered intake system until I get a new Intake pipe that I can put a filter on it and not run just an open turbo with no filter. I have scrapped the first map I uploaded there, (BIGMAP1a) Its just shit. I am Using the second map I uploaded. Its MUCH better but still has tones of timing. This is getting frustrating. If I lower my timing tables It seems to run worse. I am going to start with my first map (Bigmap1) and beginging to make changes from there.

As for the warm start problems. Warm the o2 sensor up before starting the car. Then pay attention to what your AFR is doing while the car is doin its thing. There is a table called MAF compensation vs. coolant temp. You can add or subtract fuel on start up/warm up with this table. There is another table specifically for cranking but I dont remember what it is off hand.

So even tho I have no rear O2 sensor, and its disabled in my map, I should enable it and adjust what to make this happen? I was going to make changes to the coolant temp enrichment tables.

For anyone running an EVO8 ecu with tephra V7 roms (9653 ) on a stock 6bolt and 14b. I would love to open your map next to mine in ECUflash and compare and make some adjustments. Every car is different so I would luv to do the to get an Idea. Also I am having a hard time measuring load. Are my values for load accurate? I have been told the MUT2byte load is more accurate. Is that true?

 

[mike96]

i don’t have my laptop here with me at the moment and i have no way at looking at your tune so i will just ask the question. did you go trough and zero out the maps for lean spool. it has been a while since i have messed with my car because it has been down for maintenance for over a year so i cant remember but i know there is either a timing or a fueling map or both that has an effect on how the ecu acts during the transition from vacuum to boost. it is suppose to help with getting the turbo to spool up sooner but from what i have read most people turn it off and zero out those maps because they cause funky problems when tuning. might help.

just a thought, that’s all

 

[clockworktoy]

You have a GM maf and you set the maf scaling to a 2g maf? Also your maf scaling looks way off from you rom. Where did you get these numbers from? Can you log fuel trims? Or at least your o2 feed back and post up what it says? I don't know why you have all 3 knock multipliers set to 10, that is not the proper way to set them up. The knock multiplier basically determines how sensitive the knock sensor is at certain places in the rpm band (im assuming this works differently in subarus? They might have the same labels but are definitely not the same!) It does not have anything to do with timing. I would revert back to the stock settings and maybe drop down by 5 points. Can you add afr's to your log? That would help a lot. Also evoscan does live logging if you change the settings (actually i believe that is the default settings). The biggest problem i see with your rom is the fact that your maf scaling is way off, you have to get that in check so your fuel map matches your actual afr's better.

 

[williillii]

Ah I missed that part about the multipliers. Those are for setting the sensitivity/threshold of the knock sensor. The higher the number the less knock it will pick up. Not sure about 1gs but most 2g guys have to add some to the mid knock multiplier to deal with tip in and part throttle phantom knock. I left the low and high setting alone, and bumped the mid up to 18 or 19. I wouldnt do this till you know if you're getting phantom knock or not.

By "warm the o2 sensor" I mean put the key to on so your wideband warms up, and reads accurately when you first start the car. Rear o2 doesnt matter.

I would strongly suggest starting off with a base tune on the 2g maf since you have it in there already. You could always sell the translator and buy a MAP and AIT for speed density....

Here is the MAF scaling table from my 2g MAF base tune...all I did was open up Ceddys 2g ECU rom and copy the values, then added the Mafs adder for the Evo rom.

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Not entirely sure about the first two and the last two cells, but its always run very close to the fuel tables I set.